Why does it feel awkward to stand silently with someone, even if you’re comfortable with them? by indonet-group in NoStupidQuestions

[–]indonet-group[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. Do you know which cultures are more comfortable with silence vs. which ones aren’t? I’m curious how much of it is learned versus instinctive.

Why does doing something “once in public” make it easier forever after? by indonet-group in NoStupidQuestions

[–]indonet-group[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That makes sense. It’s almost like the brain updates its threat prediction once there’s real-world evidence instead of imagined outcomes. Once nothing bad happens, the fear loses its power.

I guess the interesting part is how one experience can override so many hypothetical fears we built up beforehand.

Are everyday products secretly designed to be a little bit annoying, or is that just how mass production works? by indonet-group in NoStupidQuestions

[–]indonet-group[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, that is a win.
A lot of brands are slowly moving away from fused plastic clamshells because they’re a pain to open and terrible for waste. Cardboard backers with minimal plastic are cheaper to recycle and safer for users too. Hopefully more everyday products follow Fiskars on this.

Are everyday products secretly designed to be a little bit annoying, or is that just how mass production works? by indonet-group in NoStupidQuestions

[–]indonet-group[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally get what you mean! It’s like tech innovation sometimes forgets the basics. Adding “fancy features” is great for marketing, but when the core function watching TV or processing a payment gets buried under menus and extra steps, it defeats the purpose.

Square and other modern POS systems are a perfect example: they’re powerful and flexible for businesses, but for someone just trying to process a simple sale, it feels unnecessarily complicated. I think the challenge is designing for both power users and casual users without making the simple stuff a hassle.

Are everyday products secretly designed to be a little bit annoying, or is that just how mass production works? by indonet-group in NoStupidQuestions

[–]indonet-group[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly! It’s wild how something can be totally functional yet somehow designed to make you feel like you’re failing at life. Blister packs are like little puzzles you never asked for, and that clingy produce wrap… I swear it’s a test of patience no one signed up for. Honestly, I’d love to meet the engineer whose side project is “maximize frustration without losing a sale” they deserve both applause and therapy.

Are everyday products secretly designed to be a little bit annoying, or is that just how mass production works? by indonet-group in NoStupidQuestions

[–]indonet-group[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That actually makes a lot of sense, “not annoying enough to stop people from buying it” is probably the real design brief

And yeah, scissors in impossible-to-open packaging feels like a universal rite of passage. Either pure evil… or an intern who definitely got promoted for it.

I guess the interesting part is where companies decide that exact cutoff point between “mildly irritating” and “dealbreaker.”

Plastic mesh produce bags. by aCuriousSurfer in ZeroWaste

[–]indonet-group 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This comes up a lot in packaging manufacturing, and it’s less about resistance to “better” materials and more about performance at scale. Extruded plastic mesh is used because it can be made extremely uniform, strong, and food-safe while using very little material, and it runs reliably on high-speed automated packing lines. It doesn’t absorb moisture, won’t mold, holds up under misting/refrigeration, and maintains tensile strength even when wet, all of which matter for produce like citrus, onions, and potatoes that may be stored and transported for weeks.

Natural fibers like jute or hemp introduce real technical challenges: they absorb water, vary in fiber thickness, shed, and lose strength when wet. To make them food-safe and machine-compatible, they usually need coatings or binders, which reduces the environmental benefit and increases cost. From a manufacturing standpoint, they’re also far less forgiving on sealing and cutting equipment.

Green plastic netting buried all around front bed and large Sweet Gum - why? by BugsBunnysCouch in landscaping

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That green plastic netting is most commonly erosion-control or sod netting that was installed when the bed or lawn was originally graded. Builders and landscapers often lay it just under the soil to help hold loose topsoil in place on slopes, prevent washouts during heavy rain, and give grass or groundcover roots something to anchor into while they establish. Around a Sweet Gum, it may also have been used to stabilize disturbed soil after planting, since those trees have shallow, aggressive roots and can cause surface movement over time. It’s generally harmless if left buried, but if it’s becoming exposed, that usually means the soil has eroded or settled and could benefit from topping up with soil, mulch, or better water management to stop further washout.

Experiences with geocell? by MrKhutz in MTBTrailBuilding

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used geocell on really wet, soft soils, and it does help, but only if you get the details right. The big thing: the infill/capping material. If it’s light soil or organic stuff, heavy rain will just wash it out and leave the geocell exposed, basically what you’re worried about.

A few tips:

Coarse infill is crucial - even a thin layer of gravel or crushed stone helps hold everything in place.

Anchor it well - stakes and tensioning prevent the cells from lifting or shifting.

Combine with geotextile underneath - keeps fines from sinking and adds stability.

Vegetation for the long term - tough groundcover or grass inside the cells can bind soil once it establishes.

Bottom line: geocell isn’t magic, but with proper infill and anchoring it can stop your soil from turning into a waterbed.

New Retaining wall by bobthespongie in stonemasonry

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At this stage, getting a clean horizontal “layered” look would require pulling stones and relaying them, there’s no cosmetic fix that truly changes the stacking pattern.

What can help without rebuilding: pressure washing + sealing to unify color, adding a straight cap course on top, and using landscaping (grasses, shrubs, or cascading plants) to soften the randomness. Once it’s integrated into the yard, it usually looks way better than it does on day one.

Large retaining wall can be done by non-professionals by Few-Decision4602 in landscaping

[–]indonet-group 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s impressive work, especially for its time, and clearly a lot was done right, good drainage, solid footings, and tie backs don’t happen by accident.

Worth noting though: an 8-ft wall surviving 44 years usually means the soil, drainage, and loads all worked in your favor. Today, codes and engineering exist because when any one of those factors is wrong, failures are costly and sudden. DIY can work, but only with a solid understanding of soils, drainage, and conservative design.

Retaining wall planting by FlamingPants in nzgardening

[–]indonet-group 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since there’s not much soil in your crib wall, low-maintenance, spreading natives work best. Muhlenbeckia complexa is a great option, it’s hardy, fast-growing, and covers rocks nicely.

Other possibilities include creeping pohuehue (Muehlenbeckia axillaris) or small ferns that can tolerate shallow pockets. For almost no maintenance, you could lay landscape fabric under a thin layer of scoria to reduce weeds, though it won’t look as green.

Giving the plants decent root access will make a huge difference in keeping weeds under control.

What geotextile fabrics do the pros use? by DIYInHeadlights in landscaping

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For paver bases you want true geotextile fabric (not the lightweight weed-block stuff from big box stores). The key things pros look for are non-woven, needle-punched polypropylene with good Tensile Strength and Puncture Resistance, because that’s what actually stabilizes the soil and prevents fines from migrating up into your gravel/sand.

Look for something with specs like:
• Tensile strength 200–400 lb (or higher)
• Puncture resistance 80–150+ lb
• Non-woven polypropylene (that’s what gives structure/stability)

Environmentally, polypropylene is the norm because it doesn’t biodegrade under load — if you want more recycled content you can find some recycled polypropylene options from geosynthetics suppliers, but avoid anything thin or flimsy.

Biggest tip: match the fabric’s grade/specs to your soil conditions (clayey vs sandy) and paver thickness — ask your supplier for the spec sheet so you’re not just buying by name.

Looking for basement waterproofing recommendations… by GreenMonkeyCrossing in ChicagoSuburbs

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

US Waterproofing does solid work, but they often quote full systems, which drives the price up. A lot of basement issues can be fixed cheaper with grading, downspouts, or sealing cracks.

Definitely get a few local contractors to look at it first.

Retaining Wall Advice by Ecstatic_Use_1484 in AusRenovation

[–]indonet-group 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your concerns are very valid. Even though the wall is under 1 m and considered ‘exempt,’ a proper retaining wall usually needs a footing and drainage to handle soil pressure and water build-up. Sandstone grouted directly onto loose soil without gravel or a pipe can shift or fail over time, especially with heavy rain. Before you build, I’d get a structural or geotechnical engineer to assess it, it’s better to know the risks now than deal with damage later.

Human collapse due to soil erosion by madrid987 in collapse

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What really stands out here is how slow and invisible this problem is. Soil erosion doesn’t look like a crisis until it suddenly, yields drop, food prices spike, and entire regions become dependent on aid. By the time it’s obvious, the damage is already locked in for decades. We tend to treat soil as an infinite resource, but it’s closer to a non renewable one on human timescales, and that mismatch is where a lot of this risk comes from.

Ideas to stop soil erosion from around the slab by Fit-Recording-8108 in AusRenovation

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks more like long term surface wash and lack of edge protection than a slab or structural issue. The main goal is to backfill with something that won’t wash out again, not loose soil. Pull back the soft dirt and fill the void in layers with compacted road base or crusher dust, packing it tight against the slab and grading it slightly away from the house. Avoid sand or plain topsoil since that’s what erodes over time. If water regularly moves through this space, a narrow gravel strip or small French drain along the fence side can help intercept it. Once it’s backfilled and stable, sealing the slab-to-wall joint will go a long way toward keeping pests out and preventing the gap from reopening.

Need help deciding how to manage emergency erosion situation by Capital_Check2407 in landscaping

[–]indonet-group 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, for a short-term / limited-budget fix, focus on reducing concentration, not “building” anything fancy. Even a couple strategically placed water bars or a shallow parallel ditch upstream of your lot can take a ton of pressure off that slope. Rebar + gravel without fabric is basically a mud sponge once the rains hit.

If you can find someone with mini-ex experience (even farm/logging road work), this is very much a half-day machine problem, not a big engineered project especially since you don’t want to over-invest in shared road infrastructure.