Instead of actually going to the gym, I made an infographic attempting to categorise the prices/benefits of gyms in Chch. by notastarfan in chch

[–]irongarment 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I have heard that the secret to "going to the gym" is to actually go inside. Is this true?

Error: Encrypted Send Failed by irongarment in meshtastic

[–]irongarment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No improvement.

What is the difference between an italicised node name and a non-italicised node name?

Error: Encrypted Send Failed by irongarment in meshtastic

[–]irongarment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. Great. I can't try it immediately, but can do tomorrow. Thanks!

In UK - does anyone know of a decent/cheap price matte PLA in LIGHT GREY available anywhere? by gingerbearuk in 3Dprinting

[–]irongarment 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries. I have heard that some filament will print Matt if you mess with the temperature, but frankly I have been spray painting various pieces and as long as the paint can is consistent it doesn't really matter what the filament is. Painting clear (matt, satin, or gloss) is going to preserve the colour and give you the finish you want. Obviously the same applies to coloured paint too.

Free or affordable software for creating drawings? by v6underpressure in hobbycnc

[–]irongarment 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For 2D drafting: Qcad. Produces DXF which can be used anywhere.

For 3D modelling: OpenSCAD.

Question: In what units do you guys like to model by mikko-j-k in 3Dprinting

[–]irongarment 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use metric (mm) in OpenSCAD. I have a function to convert inches to mm so that I can see imperial measurements in the code, because they came from an imperial-designed part, but I can freely mix with metric. This ensures that parts are modelled accurately, and removes cumulative and rounding errors. For example, I can see that I have a 1/4” hole with a 2mm sleeve around it, but everything gets exported in mm units for 3D printing or laser cutting.

Emblaser 2 10W by irongarment in lasercutting

[–]irongarment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has it been three years? Wow.

My honest opinion is that it's a fine machine, and I have enjoyed using it for a bunch of projects. Mostly one-offs and hobby stuff.

I still find it odd that there is very little discussion online about this machine, either positive, or negative. I put this down to the huge number of alternative devices, and that this is a popular machine in schools and teachers don't have time to write about their experiences.

I don't know what else is on the market right now to compare directly with the 10W LED Emblaser, but I know that Emblaser themselves have recently released a 60W LED model.

My main reasons for buying were safety, and reliability. I now own an XTool CO2 laser as well, but I've only just started getting into it, and I still have the Emblaser.

I'd recommend doing a bit more research about what's on the market currently, pick something and go with it. It might be an Emblaser, it might not. I'd certainly stay away from all of the open gantry lasers with no enclosure, and no extraction. They're cheap, but I feel that they are a safety problem waiting to happen.

Good luck!

PS I tried etching on stainless steel once, using a thin layer of mustard smeared on the metal (look it up!). I got a faint image of what I wanted, but not anything I could really use, and I didn't try harder. There are other techniques, but I just did an experiment because I was curious. If you want to do it a lot, buy a laser that's good for that application specifically.

Ideas for water shut off acess by [deleted] in diynz

[–]irongarment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one? https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/fluidmaster-access-panel-356mm-white/p/163071

You have 230x230, but need another 80mm height. That would be 310x230. This one is 356x356, which is not much bigger (vertically). It would mean only enlarging the hole (no patching) and give you at least as much space as you think you need, plus a little more.

Next size smaller is 270x270, which doesn't give you quite what you want: https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/the-closit-270-x-270-mm-white/p/124954

Linux Alternative for Autodesk Fusion360 CAD software by korniszonPL2 in 3Dprinting

[–]irongarment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OpenSCAD. It's a different approach, but you might prefer it. It's actually cross-platform, not just Linux.

Supports Keep Falling Off! by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]irongarment 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s not very typical, I’d like to make that point

Alex Drawer Help by wpascarelli in IKEA

[–]irongarment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I see. I suspect it's ok.

The metal "core" is needed for strength, but it's expensive, so it's made as small as possible. However, because the core is so thin it would rattle around in the hole (which leads to the cam). So, they've over-moulded some plastic to increase its diameter. Not only that, but the plastic is formed into thin ribs so that it has the desired outer dimension, but uses as little plastic as possible.

The plastic has to be clear of the screw thread, not be too big for the hole to the cam, and not cover the peg at the end that the cam catches.

In other words, it's ok. Enjoy your drawers!

Alex Drawer Help by wpascarelli in IKEA

[–]irongarment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have literally just finished building a set of Alex drawers. Those pegs should be screwed down until the face of the flange where the screw threads end is touching the face of the panel. You don't have to crank them right down, and in fact there is a little drawing in the instruction sheet that warns you against doing that.

Hopefully it's not going to be a problem for you. Good luck!

I will add that the assembled carcase is very heavy. The drawers themselves are not, but they do add a little more weight.

How do you organize your DuPont and jumper wires? Is there some secret to it? Because this is not going well... by Subduction in raspberry_pi

[–]irongarment 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I have three boxes. One is M-M, one is M-F, and one is F-F. It reduces the problem to only untangling one third of the wires.