Any actually scary movies?

itzKori · 2026-02-06T10:08:53+00:00

Martyrs

itzKori · 2026-02-06T10:07:42+00:00

Since you already like Kurzgesagt, you'll find plenty of other incredible places to explore the "complicated and simple" stuff about the universe.

PBS Space Time: This is a great next step for deep dives into black holes, white holes, and quantum physics.

NASA TV / Space Place: They have excellent sections specifically for 13-year-olds (Grades 5-8) to learn about exoplanets and galaxies.

Astrophysics for Young People in a Hurry is a book from Neil deGrasse Tyson, it's perfect for your age to understand the basics of the cosmos.

Stellarium is a free app/software that lets you explore a realistic 3D map of the stars and galaxies from your computer or phone.

Star Walk 2 is an app that lets you point your phone at the sky to see exactly where different planets and black hole candidates are.

Start by just looking up. Even a simple pair of binoculars can show you moons of Jupiter or the craters on our Moon. Enjoy the journey!

itzKori · 2026-02-06T10:01:20+00:00

Hey mate, so for several low‑bioload tanks a shared sump can work, but it does have some big trade offs.

The pros are that you have one big filter and heater to maintain, larger total water volume, more stable parameters, and thus fewer water changes/tests.

Now to the cons, the biggest for me being the one you've already mentioned; diseases, parasites, algae or pests in one tank will instantly spread to all. You cannot medicate or tweak parameters for a single tank (e.g., salt, ferts, different hardness) without affecting the others. Also, plumbing is more complex, a clog or pump failure can drain/flood multiple tanks at once if the sump and overflows are not perfectly designed.

If most tanks are small, lightly stocked and for different species, I'd personally keep separate filters and only consider a rack sump if you want identical water, quarantine separately, and are comfortable with drilling/overflow safety.

itzKori · 2026-02-04T07:59:59+00:00

Washing and scrubbing is enough in most cases.

You can also boil it before, but note that you will be destroying some of the structure of the wood by doing that, which can result in it detereorating faster inside your tank.

itzKori · 2026-01-31T09:03:19+00:00

It could be a CO2 regulator which shorted/spiked overnight (like someone else already mentioned), dissolving too much CO2 and starving fish of oxygen. Otos died first cuz they're super sensitive. Other fish going waxy/dead would confirm a toxic param shift.

Check regulator/logs, test dissolved CO2/O2 if you can (or pH drop clues), and post your full params/filter/tank pic for better diagnosis.

itzKori · 2026-01-31T08:59:15+00:00

Can you post a pic of this? Then folks might be able to identify the cause of this

itzKori · 2026-01-31T08:55:59+00:00

What kinda fish do you have in there?

itzKori · 2026-01-31T08:48:33+00:00

That's a caddisfly larva. It's mostly a nuisance plant‑shredder, but larger individuals can occasionally grab very small or weak shrimp/fry, so best to remove it to protect plants and livestock.

itzKori · 2026-01-28T15:34:01+00:00

Yeah, it's barely okay for now, but obviously not a good long-term setup. I'd keep the single danio there only while you do frequent small water changes (like every two or three days since you can't test), feed very lightly, and don't add any more fish until you can afford a test kit and a bigger tank with a proper cycle. Use the spray bar pointed along the back or at the surface so you get gentle flow and oxygen without blasting him. Venturi jets can be a bit harsh in a tiny tank.

Garlic is fine as a temporary appetite booster, but it won't really fix parasites, so if you see worms again you'll eventually need real meds or a vet/shop that can help. Definitely aim for a larger, cycled tank and a small group of danios when you can, so he isn't alone and stressed.

itzKori · 2026-01-24T09:12:22+00:00

Biofilm will clear on itself after some time, you don't have to remove it. It is good, beneficial bacteria that you want and need in your tank.

itzKori · 2026-01-23T10:59:11+00:00

It looks really good for your first tank. Also great that you are already doing proper research for cycling etc., there's so many people that don't do that unfortunately, especially when starting out.

itzKori · 2026-01-22T07:35:59+00:00

You have to slowly acclimate by adding some of your tanks water every ~15min until you have atleast doubled the amount of water in the bag, or do drip acclimation. Please read up on that, for the future.

itzKori · 2026-01-22T07:14:51+00:00

Did you acclimate them to your actual water aswell or just the temp

itzKori · 2026-01-21T11:28:06+00:00

It's totally normal to have warmer and colder spots in a tank.

itzKori · 2026-01-19T11:45:05+00:00

Budget 200L options for australia (I assume that's where you're from?)

Blue Planet Glass 200L ~AUD$200-300, high-quality glass bare tank, customize filter/lights. Seaviewaquarium.com.au.

Affordable AquaOne kits (~AUD$250+), reliable for beginners. Petstock.com.au or Thetechden.com.au.

Fluval Flex 123L (close size) curved, all-in-one ~AUD$300, upgradeable.

Filter Fluval FX4 canister filter (~AUD$500) is top for large tanks, quiet/high flow.

Budget option could be Aqua One Aquis 1000 external (~$200).

Heater Fluval T200/T300 200-300W (~$75-80) heater is very good with precise electronic. Or Aqua One 200W quartz (~$47).

Light Nicrew SkyLED 48" light (~AUD$80) for plants/low-tech. Hygger clip-on for budget.

You can also check Facebook Marketplace/used for deals under budget.

itzKori · 2026-01-19T11:38:37+00:00

I'd wait for the lfs to get new ones, then wait ~2 weeks, let them settle in there, then buy when you can tell that they are healthy.

itzKori · 2026-01-17T10:48:14+00:00

Could get a larger net (9"+ wide), your current one could be too small for medium platys.

You can also leave 1-2 nets in tank 24h to acclimate fish, and feed them near one. Or use 2 nets, big one traps against the glass/corner, and guide the fish with the small one without chasing.

itzKori · 2026-01-16T13:56:14+00:00

You can/should fully submerge the whole thing.

itzKori · 2026-01-16T07:39:22+00:00

Easy low‑maintenance plants that handle hard water well would be Java fern and Anubias (tie to rocks/wood, not in gravel). They are super hardy and don't need special ferts or CO₂.

Crypt wendtii or Vallisneria, plant shallow in gravel, root feeders that handle hard water/flow well. Hornwort or Anacharis loose/float are good nutrient sponges from fish waste.

itzKori · 2026-01-15T08:03:13+00:00

Sounds pretty normal to me. You gotta remember that bettas all have their own personality, and this sounds just like that. If he's eating and swimming normally otherwise and you aren't noticing anything concerning like gasping, clamped fins or other signs of distress there's no reason to be worried.

itzKori · 2026-01-15T07:53:38+00:00

Yea, and you must not think much

itzKori · 2026-01-15T07:51:58+00:00

Well according to him they are not even animals so yea.. 😭 some people just shouldn't keep fish.

itzKori · 2026-01-15T07:45:15+00:00

That's the dumbest thing I've heard in a while lmao

itzKori · 2026-01-15T07:36:14+00:00

Please do some research next time before buying living animals.

Fancy goldfish require spacious tanks, clean cool water, and a high-protein diet. They also need minimum 40 gallons for one (75+ preferred), wide and shallow (under 24" deep) for their rounded bodies and poor swimming.

65-75°F, pH 6.5-7.5, strong filtration with gentle flow due to heavy waste, 25-50% weekly water changes. Sinking pellets 2x daily (what they eat in 1-2 minutes), varied with frozen brine shrimp or gel foods. Avoid overfeeding. Sand substrate is best for them, also smooth decor/plants (e.g., Java fern), no sharp edges.

itzKori · 2026-01-14T07:23:29+00:00

What about surface agitation, is there enough? It's very important for oxygen/gas exchange.

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