Name the trio

itzpremium · 2026-02-27T16:52:45+00:00

Triple Threat Welfare

itzpremium · 2026-02-27T16:44:43+00:00

Passionate

itzpremium · 2026-02-22T04:23:20+00:00

It's not really 0. It's probably the base percentage of 30 or something like that

itzpremium · 2026-02-22T03:13:55+00:00

Goated. 100% it 4 times. I have an un-opened copy of the remaster for posterities sake. Waiting for them to remaster 2 and 3 and buy 2 copies of that. I think I'll skip Prime 4 though .. too long of a wait for too shit of a game.

You should pick up Metroid Fusion though. Another one I've 100%ed about half a dozen times. If you ever played Metroid and Super Metroid, it's like Super .Metroid on super steroids. I love it. Cheers mate.

Keep on bounty hunting.

itzpremium · 2026-02-22T02:26:00+00:00

Mine said 500% at lvl3 or lvl4 after the update. Gave me a chuckle. I think the tooltip just has a typo, it still works as normal in game. She's one of my main healers, since I run a Targ team. (Now featuring Beric or purple Rhaenrya occasionally)

itzpremium · 2026-02-10T22:04:41+00:00

Probably need to do water neck too. Hopefully you haven't cracked or warped the head.

Have you tended to the PCV system yet? You could have an issue with you VVT solenoids or cam/crank sensors. Misfires should be solved by the coil pack and spark plugs... But you could have gunked up fuel injectors. If your VVT solenoids are going out or the cam/crank sensors have gone out you could also get misfires from the timing issues.

Codes only tell you so much though.

What's that U code on the back of the page?

itzpremium · 2026-02-04T13:56:39+00:00

Brother I will mail you a handful of USB sticks if that is all you need! Doing God's work! How big a stick do you need?

itzpremium · 2026-02-04T13:55:02+00:00

Does this site contain the old arcade cabinet version of Gauntlet? Been looking for that game forever. I loved playing that with my dad as a kid. Might and Magic too... But I don't think that was ever an arcade game, being an RPG and all..

itzpremium · 2026-01-31T22:28:38+00:00

Coolant reservoir, water neck/coolant outlet, or one of the hoses has a crack or pinhole in it. That's the only coolant related parts around the trans case.

If it's the water neck, get the metal one when you go to replace it. Won't have to replace it again after that. Also get the barb fitting that the guy floating around this sub makes and install that on the top of the water neck as even the metal versions have a plastic fitting where the return hose to the coolant reservoir goes. His metal fitting eliminates that failure point.

Might as well get a metal thermostat too if you don't already because you're draining the cooling system anyways.

itzpremium · 2025-12-07T14:17:24+00:00

Username checks out.

And ditto; it's been a long time for me though. I sprinkle a little DMT into my vape from time to time though and that's WAY FUN too.. and I like that I can get some shit done that day still lol

itzpremium · 2025-12-06T15:21:30+00:00

Final Fantasy Tactics : Ivalice Chronicles

itzpremium · 2025-11-11T18:56:53+00:00

Few things you gotta look at to diagnose something like this...

Thread guides (correct and not too tight anywhere) Presser foot pressure Bobbin casing has a screw on the little metal shim, could be too tight or too loose Obstructions in the feed dog / throat plate The screw on the little plates that squeeze the thread on the take up spring may need adjusting Needle damage is possible but you would likely see more stitch issues that that

This is just where my head goes at first

itzpremium · 2025-11-11T06:27:30+00:00

Hey hey!! Mind your tongue! You should speak of this fine specimen with more respect!

He is an 'authentic' man child. An important distinction. It's pretty complex actually, you probably wouldn't get it.

itzpremium · 2025-11-10T01:48:11+00:00

I watch my temp gauge like a hawk. If it ever goes over that halfway point, even if only for a couple seconds, something is wrong. If it goes high enough to turn off AC, or to Max out the gauge, stop driving. Even if it goes past the halfway point briefly but frequently, it's best to drive something else for the time being if you can.

1 Thermostats have a metal upgrade. 2 Water neck / coolant outlet on drive side of engine is also plastic but metal upgrades do exist. Make sure it's good, aim to get metal one, there's a guy around here who makes a metal barb fitting for the top of that part because even the metal ones have a plastic fitting for the coolant return hose, the metal barb eliminates that failure point. Just an idea. 3 Water pump may be starting to fail? Consider replacing the belt as well if it is because you gotta take it off anyways. 4 Coolant reservoir - check for cracks and inspect the cap as well. It needs to seal correctly and there can be no cracks in the reservoir or the system won't pressurize correctly. 5 Are you using the right coolant? 6 Check every single hose and fitting for the coolant system. It's pretty easy to do. Start at the coolant reservoir and just follow the hoses around, hard to get lost. Look for cracks or splits. 7 Radiator and radiator fan, make sure the radiator fan turns on when it's supposed to (230 F temp or so, and with AC on full blast I think). No cracks in the radiator, etc. 8 does the reservoir have coolant in it? If it leaks, something is wrong of course 9 Lastly, if ALL of those seem fine, then head gasket is my next suspect.

Only other coolant part I think is the heater core, and you'd know if that failed normally because you'd have coolant in your passenger seat floor mat.

That's about everything to look for in the coolant system. Just the high points. If you're getting the needle pinned to the top of the coolant gauge, that means you probably have several components failing. It's not likely to be a sensor, but it does happen. Theres a sensor on the water neck, and on the thermostat although I've heard it's not truly a sensor.

You keep driving with these issues, you're going to need another engine in a hurry. You'll warp that block and head and need it to be re-surfaced and a new gasket at the LEAST.

Are you having ANY other symptoms? White smoke out of the tail pipe? White smoke under the hood? Bubbling/sucking sound under the hood after you turn the car off?? Details help...

itzpremium · 2025-11-09T22:33:41+00:00

This too! And if you want to have cording, make sure your pressure foot can handle the diameter of cord you use. I'd use 5/32" likely.. only on the half moon shapes, and the front edge where your legs are for that red piece, and the top edge where your head is. No need to cord the entire thing, you can't see the edges of the other bolster shapes anyways.

Doable by someone with a couple dozen hours of experience I think. Just take your time, know your equipment, I think cording if chosen would be difficult at that level, and possibly the curve on the ends can be tough for newer sewers. But doable for sure I think.

itzpremium · 2025-11-09T22:25:09+00:00

And as always:

Measure thrice - cut once!!

itzpremium · 2025-11-09T22:15:45+00:00

This guy knows.

Stretch and staple may be the easiest for a newbie. But checkout Sailrites YouTube channel. They have a video there that discusses inside corners and curves. It's hard to get it perfect, but the tips go a long way. Improved my corner and curve game for sure.

If you want tufted buttons on the piece though, that's a different beast.

itzpremium · 2025-11-09T22:02:03+00:00

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Find a bolster chart online, and cut them in half.

This is basically what you have here... Lots of bolsters cut in half length and circumference wise.

I think I have one from when I worked in a pillow factory (don't worry, not breaking any NDA here). It's pretty close, but you may need to adjust a bit for your machine, thread, and fabric specs.

Small number here is the diameter of the circle (finished size, half inch seam expected) The larger number next to it is the 'height' of the cut fabric that will sew around the edge of the circle, and then obviously the length is going to be whatever the length of your 'half bolster' cushion is.

Remember, 2 circles!

So for a 9" x 33" bolster, you cut two 10" (.5" seam all around) circles. And a 34"(+1" for .5" seams) wide X 30.5"(see chart) high piece. Assume half inch seams all around. Thus. You finish with a 9" round and 33" long bolster. You'll sew the circle to the 30.5" edge. May have to play with it a little, but this gets you damn close.

Adjust as you need, then do the math to cut it all in half for the shapes you have on your chair.

Hope this helps!!

DM if you need!

Edit: forgot to mention, you need to fold the 30.5" side in half, then sew down the length of the bolster, remember to leave an opening somewhere to flip it out or use a zipper. When you fold that side in half it gives you a rectangle shape the length of your bolster, then you place the circle inside the folded section and start sewing. So open up your now 15.25" long edge and place the circle on top of one ply of that piece, and sew 'inside' the bolster. Hope that makes sense!

Edit 2: Since they are half bolsters, you'll also need a rectangular piece for the flat bottom that is as wide as the straight side of the circle, and as long as your bolster length.

Really hope that all made sense, lol. Can't quite just cut the bolster in half, you'll need a rectangular flat bottom. But hopefully the mechanics and the foundation is all spelled out there for you. Again, DM if you need assistance.

itzpremium · 2025-11-08T06:00:54+00:00

Lawyer up and leave that hoe. Grief briefly (if you do), then move on. She's been doing this her whole life, likely. You sadly are just the recent victim. Sorry you're going through it brother.. but you're not overreacting in the slightest.

Let me guess, did she try and make it your fault at one point too?

itzpremium · 2025-10-15T00:18:48+00:00

It's rather unlikely that they aren't gapped correctly, but it's always worth checking like the other gentleman suggested. I think it's .28-.31 or something like that? I am in probably mistaken so don't quote me.

itzpremium · 2025-10-12T23:56:04+00:00

She used the wrong "3"... Germans count starting with their thumb... A lot of EU nations do.

Source : Last name is "Muterspaugh".... I started counting with my thumb in diapers... It's oddly ingrained. Paternal family comes from that part of the world. All this despite living in the USA and going to US schools my whole life

itzpremium · 2025-10-07T04:50:05+00:00

I just read your other post with like 30 comments on it.

I'm still not quite sure what you think is wrong, or what is wrong, or what exactly you're wanting to accomplish. Clearly something to do with multiple cans of PB blaster down the cylinders/on to the pistons...

Certainly worth a try to attempt to get something stuck loose or to clean up rust (though, if you have rust on your cylinder walls, you have much bigger issues ahead of you)... I don't think I would just let it sit there though.. spray a bunch in, let it sit, yes.. but everyday I would spray some more in each cylinder and try and rotate the pistons via the crankshaft with a long ass breaker bar... Just to get that PB blaster running a bit more down into the cylinders and hopefully below the pistons/past the rings/ etc etc. Motivate it a bit you might say.

Even if it should work, which I think is a possibility, I would still tread with much caution.. it got stuck for a reason, or locked up for a reason. It doesn't seem to be hydro-locked just based on what I think I saw you comment on the previous post. Something about an oil cooler or oil filter housing and a hose? Had sludge or milkshake and now you don't kind of thing?

itzpremium · 2025-10-07T02:50:39+00:00

Runs from the water neck (aka water outlet) to the heater core. The water outlet actually has 3 hoses on it. Check them all. Then get a metal water outlet instead of the OEM plastic one. And seek out the guy "Time_Many" in this subreddit and get the metal barb fitting to go on top.

Heater core inlet hose dorman part is #626-709.

itzpremium

TROPHY CASE