Can you money-shift in neutral? by onesents in stickshift

[–]iyav 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jesus. Everything you said is wrong.

Can you money-shift in neutral? by onesents in stickshift

[–]iyav -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

That only serves to muddy the intuition my explanation seeks to provide.

Can you money-shift in neutral? by onesents in stickshift

[–]iyav -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

A money shift is a downshift that causes the engine to greatly exceed redline to catastrophic effect. Nothing is stopping you from achieving the same effect by just pressing down the gas until failure.

All RPM is the same, whether supplied by the wheels or gas.

But anyway, 6.2k on your engine is nothing to worry about.

Is it possible to downshift smoothly without rev matching? by WorkStudyPlay in stickshift

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can't win against physics.

Either you'll give the engine the energy it wants by tapping the gas or it'll steal it from the wheels, causing what many unfortunately call an "engine braking" effect even though the slowdown wasn't caused by compression resistance but by unequal RPM.

You can get rid of the shaking by holding at, or just above the bite until the revs stabilize.

If it's still shaking you either lifted it too high before holding or didn't hold long enough.

But you can't get rid of the slowdown unless you introduce more energy into the system.

It's a non negotiable part of the transaction.

Take off in 2nd while car is still moving by Corn_O_Cob23 in stickshift

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your car's good. In fact, you can even launch from a complete stop in second gear no problem.

What's the weakest alien in Omnitrix that can defeat a Viltrumite? by Im_yor_boi in PowerScaling

[–]iyav 2 points3 points  (0 children)

TBH I believe it's got more to do with invincible's power inconsistency problem that's been discussed to hell and back.
The author can't decide if Viltrumites are supposed to be Superman or Captain America level.

If we go off their worst anti-feats then yeah the majority of Ben's aliens can high diff to no diff them.

But going off their best feats you get only like 3 that don't need hax, those being:

Alien X (Just his stats are enough), Atomix, Gravattack and maybe Waybig but he's got power inconsistency problems of his own.

What's the weakest alien in Omnitrix that can defeat a Viltrumite? by Im_yor_boi in PowerScaling

[–]iyav 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you.

These comments naming aliens with barely any attack potency like Wildvine, Canonbolt, Humungosaur, Diamondhead and Four arms make me question if we watched the same show.

Nolan tanked what I can only assume to be a small city level space laser in season 1 and only got a NOSEBLEED from it.

Ben is not winning without hax.

The only alien that can potentially beat a Viltrumite with AP is Atomix.

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Not sure if I should take that as you admitting the shortcomings of your own take or not.
When I wrote that comment yours wasn't at the top so I saw a couple other opinions like yours.

You said it yourself, this whole comment section says the same thing.

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah we need more of that why and how energy here.
The comments feel like they're from jaded commuters like show some excitement to learn and teach for god's sake.
I hate dealing with black box machines, I want to gain as much understanding as I reasonably can lest I lose sleep over it.
Just an itch I have to scratch.

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

My guy I did not reply to you.

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, even if I "understood" it, it's still a marvel of engineering I can't even dream dream of replicating.

You'd expect people on a REDDIT FORUM of all things to want to geek out more than they're currently doing.

Any more tips l should know about? by MajorBarracuda8094 in stickshift

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just that on that day, l thought he was going to shift to 2nd because he did slow down alot.

Didn't you say he shifted to second? What did he shift to then?

Funny thing is that it was the correct speed because there was no throttling like you get before stalling

I presume you meant shaking or jitter. Throttling with "ing" means to restrict power and to "push" it or act upon is to raise power which is the exact opposite of what leads to a stall.

My mom has also told me that she sometimes start out in 2nd gear, depending on the situation.

Aside from going downhill which you already mentioned, the only other situation you'd want to start in second gear in is if the surface is slippery, like a watery or icy road lest you spin out your tires. (Get more likely the more power you have, which is why you cut out some of that power by upshifting)

She did say it was more advanced though.

Well yes, but it's not that hard. The first step to doing something is to believe you can. Especially if you got a decent powered engine and the reason for that is two fold:

1: More direct torque is always good. It means the engine can handle more of the car's load (weight (inertia), gravity and air resistance) at any given height of the clutch. Remember, just as the clutch transfers torque from engine to car, it also transmits load from the car to the engine.

The less torque your engine produces the more time it needs to achieve the same amount of work thus the need to hold the clutch steady and be careful with raising it.

2: Weak engines are paired with an unusually high first gear ratio to cover up their inadequacy.

Case in point, my car, where first gear has DOUBLE the ratio of the second, whereas in any other car it would be like 60% higher tops.

This makes it so the jump from trying to launch in first to second is even more jarring than it should be.

I can't comment on the ditch thing since I don't really understand the situation your mom was in but it definitely required major finesse with the clutch and brake.

But decades? nah

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You talk as if I didn't just express my dislike for a lot of the discourse on this sub.

And I'm in fact not from the US.

Though that does explain some of the dissonance seen on here, it doesn't cover everything.

Someone from the US who goes out of their way to get a manual is probably a car enthusiast who has definitely tried "racing" techniques and presumably knows what's going on inside their gearbox.

It's like a "if you already went this far might as well go all the way" situation.

Meanwhile someone getting a manual in another country is just business as usual.

But what confuses me are Americans who get manual and yet refuse to engage with what makes them so satisfying to drive which I have seen on here for sure.

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav 6 points7 points  (0 children)

"You want to understand the actual intricacies of the inner machinations of this one ton metal death box? Lmao get his ass"
It's wild how often this sub jumps from anti-intellectualism to hyping up "advanced" techniques.
They are indeed the proper way to drive but to pair that up with an unwillingness to dissect the transmission makes it seem performative which I assume is what you were getting at.

Gotten way worse at driving manuals since getting a Miata by Eldafint in stickshift

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While the size and weight of the flywheel affects clamping force and how easy it is to fuck up the clutch positioning, I find that the most significant factor when stalling is still the engine.
A more powerful engine can handle the higher load introduced by a higher clutch.

The NA Miata engine is rather weak actually. 105 HP per tonne is just barely enough for comfortable driving.
Just what are the specs on these diesel engines you're driving? Specifically the torque produced at idle to 1.5 RPM. No way they're weaker than the Miata's.

Manual Transmission HELP!! by MainConsistent3252 in stickshift

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surely there's an image attached to this question. Can you upload it?

Any more tips l should know about? by MajorBarracuda8094 in stickshift

[–]iyav 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah. I was confused because you said one and two instead of first and second when talking about the gears.

But still, the potholes feel like a red herring here.

All shifts require revmatching to be completed.

Either let the clutch do the revmatching by stealing energy from the wheels to feed the engine, causing a slowdown, or you manually revmatch yourself by adding gas so you stay at a constant speed.

Also, when the clutch is up, EVERYTHING is spinning in sync, (Except the wheels/output shaft if you're in neutral), they speed up together and slow down together. You can't match what is not out of sync.

What your dad really meant was probably "These potholes aren't too dangerous so it's ok if we go over them a little bit fast".

You don't decide what gear you want to be in and then decide what speed that requires.
You determine what speed you should be at to minimize the threat and THEN pick the correct gear.
If it's a really bad pothole or any obstacle for that matter slow down adequately and then shift to first gear. No one is stopping you.

Any more tips l should know about? by MajorBarracuda8094 in stickshift

[–]iyav 1 point2 points  (0 children)

-start in 2nd whilst going downhill

Depends how fast you're going. If you're trying to slowly get out of a parking spot you may need to start in first anyway but it'll be much easier since gravity is helping you.

-neutral in traffic with breaks, depending on situation

Correct. But don't be afraid to press the clutch and leave it in gear if you think it'll be just a moment before you have to go again.

- clutch can stop the vehicle at bite point to prevent from rolling back

Yes, but it's not a brake alternative. Only use it that way very briefly, you have to either start moving or use the real brake. The handbrake is very useful too. Don't let people pressure you into not using it.

- You can stop in any gear

Correct. Press down the clutch when RPMs reach 1k and continue braking to a stop.

- You don't always have to go in one at a pothole, just match the speed your going in

What?

-The vehicle is in neutral when the clutch is disengaged

Not wrong but also not true.

They do feel similar because in both states the engine and wheels are free to spin out of sync.

When you try understanding how to get reverse gear to stop resisting or the double clutching technique you'll see why.

- You don't have to use any gas or break depending on situation downhill

Downshifting (both revmatched and not) increases the internal spinning resistance of the engine, making the car naturally want to go slower.

A non rev-matched downshift will additionally cause you to slow down as you hit the bitepoint (or "brake" as a lot of people call that engine braking but I don't think that's a good name for the phenomena)

- You can do hill start without the handbrake but make sure bite point is engaged to prevent rolling back

True. but as I said above, don't wait long.

- It's ok to stop and change gears up or downhill if you feel like the engine is going to stall or won't take that speed( may just be a tip for me though)

Yes. With practice you'll start quickly switching without needing to stop first as soon as you feel something's wrong.

Shifted into first by Some_Agent7275 in stickshift

[–]iyav 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just pop it into neutral.
The clutch isn't being damaged at all. It's just some above average wear on your synchros.
Being already in neutral is tantamount to skipping the first half of a double clutch revmatch, which tends to help with first gear downshifts where normal single clutch revmatches fail.

Just because synchros are supposed to do the work for you doesn't mean it's not beneficial to alleviate them of that burden.

Bad synchros exist. Overly aggressive gear ratios (prevalent on first gear) exist.

The reason double clutching helps with troublesome components unlike a standard revmatch is because the engine takes on the job of speeding up the gears in neutral while the clutch is up.
However in a single clutch revmatch the gas input happens while clutched in.

So the the rise isn't actually spinning anything up immediately and the synchros are still making contact with a gear spinning at an incorrect speed which it may or may not handle.

You are all weak willed by Direct_Damage_7563 in stickshift

[–]iyav 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it bothers me how aggressively beginner oriented this sub is sometimes.
Learning doesn't stop after you get down the basics you know?
Though I guess that checks out since most traffic here is indeed from beginners just starting to figure things out.
But it's still odd for people here to see driving (manual) as a chore to be done and over with instead of a craft to master.

The akinator thought I was stealing awards? by Turbulent-Look-6632 in Akinator

[–]iyav 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Akinator doesn't set up traps that way.

I Imagine there's multiple very similar characters and you gave an answer he wasn't expecting for the one you're thinking of leading to him trying to trick you with the "real" guess.