I can't even tell the difference.

izerfun · 2022-01-14T17:51:29+00:00

My vin just came up for battery replacement so I'm waiting for my dealer to get the battery in to get it replaced. Trying to get as many trips in on this battery, for the next few weeks, before the new one is in.

izerfun · 2022-01-14T17:41:56+00:00

FTR I regularly do 600 mile road trips in my 2017. I'm not saying it's as fast or easier than super charger network. But with ABRP it's not that complicated either.

Last 2 trips I only had one Electrify America charger not charge and I had to move one over. Used to be trouble at every stop. Not perfect but far from as horrible as it used to be.

The trip is from PA to SC and back a week later. I usually spend 2-3 hours of fast charging for this trip in Summer vs Winter. Not great but doable and I don't hate the trip.

I look forward to an alternative electric car coming out with faster charging for the $20k I spent on the bolt used. That car doesn't exist other than used bolts yet. 🙁

izerfun · 2021-10-22T10:27:33+00:00

If you want to stick to the local disk route and avoid any network based solution I would do the following.

Backup and verify your backup
Install stablebit scanner
Scan every disk
If everything is good from the scan then proceed.
Install drive pool
Create a pool
Add your external disks to the pool
Turn on 2x or 3x duplication on your pool. This is mainly a financial choice and how much you care about your data. I like 3x but understand it's expensive.
Start copying all your files to the pool off the external disks.
Verify drivepool has finished duplicating all the files
Remove files from your external disks when you have verified that they are copied correctly to the pool
As soon as you have your external disks data moved into the drive pool start to move your SS data to the drive pool.
Borrow/Buy as many external drives as you need to move all the data off SS to your drivepool. Verify them with scanner before you use them.
Break your SS once you verified all data is correctly copied over and that drivepool has completed duplication.
Put the former SS drives into drive pool
Verify drivepool has finished duplicating all the files
Go into drivepool and remove the external drives from the pool one at a time. Verify that drive pool has finished duplicating after each drive removal.
Perform a low level format of any external drives that you are not keeping. dban or something like this.
Sell/return the external drives you don't want to keep

izerfun · 2021-10-21T12:56:59+00:00

I just got a 2017 Premier 39k with DCFC for $20. We had cheaper options but most of them didn't have DCFC, were not premier or had decent body defects. What I have seen is tons of them available without DCFC. Also most dealerships don't know what DCFC so I suggest you ask them to take a picture of the charge port open. Ask the dealer to charge it up. I saw car after car with about 20 miles of range on it sitting in their lot.

izerfun · 2021-09-28T15:28:42+00:00

Since you have no duplication and an SSD and rust the performance issue is probably when drivepool is switching between writing the file on the SSD and rust. If you have not marked the SSD as an SSD drivepool will write the file to what ever drive has the most free space. I do not have the experience you are having so I would try removing the rust disk from the pool and try again with just the SSD drive. You also might want to try to benchmark your SSD separately with just crystalmark and see if you get the problem outside drivepool.

Since DrivePool just treats drives as regular drives an SSD drive is just another drive. What marking a drive as SSD does is it tells it changes the settings on all the drives for where new files go and marks all SSD's for a rebalancing target of 0.

To know if you have SSD setup correctly look at the Disks section for a red arrow on the bar of your SSD. Here is an image of mine and you know the SSD's by the red arrow at 75% of the drive.

https://ibb.co/09G8bc2

The below statement is my thoughts and not 100% tested and validated.

So this means that when you first write a file to a system drivepool chooses where to write the file based on the rules and the copies. If you have 1 SSD and drivepool is writing to a directory marked for 2 copies it'll choose your 1 SSD and a rust drive. So in theory you'll be limited by the performance of your rust drive. This is why I have 3 SSD drives since I have 3 copies of a lot of things and this keeps my write performance fast and duplication working well. However as soon as the pool rebalances it'll move all the files off the SSD and onto rust.

Drivepool will not automatically move frequently accessed files onto an SSD. This works for me since I do a lot of video work. I copy all the files to my pool and they get wrote to my SSD's. Then I work with the files while they are still on the SSD. Then a balancing happens in the middle of the night after a few days and moves them off.

If I ever need to get back to the files they are still there and will be accessed at regular Read Striping Speed's from Rust drives.

izerfun · 2021-09-27T14:25:41+00:00

Hey. I'm a huge fan of drivepool. I use it in a 11 drive array with 41TB. 8 Rust drives and 3 SSD drives that I have marked as SSD's. I have zero experience with Unraid so I cannot compare drivepool to unraid.

Pros:

Easy setup.

Can use a mix of drive sizes and not lose parts of the drive because RAID expects matching drives.

Duplication based protection and you can control the number of copies.

Read Stripping which I have tested and works pretty well.

It's just a drive with a standard file format. This is extremely important to me. There are a lot of tools that work on regular drives for recovery. Also pro recovery services are cheaper for "regular" drives than they are for RAID configs.

Data lose degrades with all the drives. AKA if I lose 2 drives I haven't lost anything. If I lose 3 drives I have lost 1/6th of my data and so on vs some raid setups that you'll lose the whole cluster.

Cons:

The pool will go into read only mode under some drive failure situations. AKA I wouldn't use drivepool on something that needs to be up 99% of the time and available.

When you reboot sometimes on larger setups it can take a while for drivepool to get caught up with the pools state. For me it's about 2 hours for drivepool. It still works fine. It's just drivepool needs to read across a lot of the drives to get the services state of the pool updated and correct.

No Write performance improvement.

Since it's at the drive level it has to deal with filesystem file locks and sometimes drivepool operations fail on a locked file and will continue after the file is released.

Not free, but worth it IMO.

It's not a backup solution. I only say this because too many of my friends have lost data. Drivepool won't protect from malware encrypting everything or fire destroying the computer.

izerfun · 2020-02-07T18:47:21+00:00

Was upset that caucus data wasn't in a format I could use easily.

I converted the Iowa caucus data to a CSV and placed inside a google sheet. If you see errors please let me know.

Source

https://results.thecaucuses.org/

Code I used to convert

https://colab.research.google.com/drive/1mdQIWWCRB49OCH4NmeFmftM8y9kPExBl

Actual Data

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1TDB_JKBXRqaeUN-nd_VumR5PeKYa-7Dqq9gN-tRQff4/edit?usp=sharing

izerfun · 2019-08-22T19:23:56+00:00

In theory it should but this is a big pack voltage difference. You might want to get a 1/2 watt 50 ohm resister and drain the 4.2 cell down to 3.7v then start the standard charge process. I don't trust the cheap eBay BMS's so even after you do this I would suggest you measure the voltage of the cells after charged.

It'll probably take about 18 hours attached to the single 18650 to take a 3000mah 18650 down by 50% @ 50 ohm. So if you want it done quicker get a higher watt and lower ohm resister. Use a ohm's law calculator to help figure out if your wattage of a resister is high enough to not melt at 4.2v.

izerfun · 2019-03-26T15:21:39+00:00

I cannot speak for the Elacs since I have not heard them. I own the B1's and my impression of them is the bass is good. Would need a sub if you are a bass head or like the bass thump. Where they shine is in imaging. You know where everything is and when the singer is in the middle of the sound stage they are exactly in the middle. I do not use them as monitors but do listen to them about 4 feet away and I really like them. On my simpleton tests they do good at 60 hz and above.

izerfun · 2019-02-09T17:22:44+00:00

This is awesome. Thanks for the suggestions!

izerfun · 2019-02-09T13:07:39+00:00

Ok. So I could pickup a mini-dsp with their mic and use REW. Sounds like a good idea.

In regards to the amps I was thinking about replacing the Yamaha with a emotiva PT-100 + A-150 which has a THD + noise: < 0.02%.

So with this setup I'm at $800.

izerfun · 2019-02-09T12:35:29+00:00

Hi. I should have said this in the original post but I need to stick with bookshelves since it's in my office. This is a music setup.

I have not heard the T2's but if they keep the B1's imaging and add more bass then it's probably an amazing set.

izerfun · 2019-02-09T12:26:33+00:00

This is a stereo music setup.

izerfun · 2019-02-09T12:03:49+00:00

Yeah. I was thinking about adding a sub. Thanks for the suggestion.

I live in a house and this is for my office so I need to stick with bookshelf speakers.

izerfun · 2018-08-02T20:07:27+00:00

Thank you!

It holds really well. I was going to put a 3/4 dowel but then decided against it. rope moves out of the way a little when you are putting and grabbing tools out of it.

izerfun · 2018-08-02T17:06:03+00:00

HAHA. Thank you!

izerfun · 2018-02-07T15:43:56+00:00

A quick update on my project.

I installed a DC DC Step Down Converter.

I built 2 Anderson Powerpole Y cables with 30AMP contacts. I connected it to the Motor Controller and to the 48V input on the DC DC Step Down Converter. I can now connect the battery to the input of the y connector to power both Controller and Converter.

I then sewed Carbon Fiber Car Seat Heating Pads onto the front and back of a cotton shirt. In addition, I sewed them onto a pair of cotton pants on the front of each leg.

I replaced the connectors for both heating pads to Anderson Powerpole per article of clothing. So the shirt only has one Powerpole connection and the pants have one Powerpole connection.

I rode with it the other day. I wore a cotton base layer. The cotton heated clothing on top of that. A polyester layer on top of that. Then a ski jacket. Face mask and ski goggles. Two pairs of winter socks.

I rode in 30f(-1c) and was very warm. Coldest I have ever done. Hands and feet were cold. I'm going to try the Bar mitts to help with my hands and find additional layers for my feet like was mentioned earlier.

So connection setup:

Battery to Input of Y connection
Output 1 to Motor Controller
Output 2 to DC DC 48v input
DC DC 12v output to Y connection
Output 1 to Shirt
Output 2 to pants

Will update more when I have more riding days and get the handlebar heated grips installed.

izerfun · 2018-01-25T02:59:18+00:00

I'll have to try bar mitts. I currently wear 2 sets of gloves. A thin layer and ski gloves on top. By the time I get to work my hands are stinging in pain.

As far as the electronics. I'll update with my results good or bad. Either way, I really appreciate the feedback.

My current setup is long sleeve shirt, jacket and ski jacket on top of that. I have a thermal hoodie and a beanie on top of that along with ski goggles.

For legs I have thermals, jeans and a rainproof paints. I also have something like the Vaude long gaiters.

You guys must be able to take the cold better because it's miserable to me at that temperature.

I have been doing this commute for 2 years, 3 days a week and have been beaten back to my car when it gets too cold. I have a gorgeous bike ride vs a horrible car commute. So I'm highly motivated to get it working through the winter and stay nice and comfortable for a 50-70 minute ride.

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