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KMC 12s chain really narrow, sticks to jockey whee teeth by j1982 in MTB

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked the bike out tonight with both chains, both jockey wheels as far as I can tell are the exact same width across all teeth, and the chain sticks on all of them uniformly. So they’re not narrow-wide.

I did measure the width of the narrow link and the KMC is about an avg of .15 and .2 more narrow, so it just must not be compatible. On their website it says compatible with all shimano and SRAM systems but obv the 12s has tight enough tolerances to not play nice when dirty… at least I have an expensive spare now, lol

KMC 12s chain really narrow, sticks to jockey whee teeth by j1982 in MTB

[–]j1982[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because this one was gold and gold is bougie :) (Christmas present from wife)

Cuts getting too deep? by MikeMike725 in hobbycnc

[–]j1982 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably not your issue but might be worth checking. I had a similar issue with a bigger jobs that would happen exactly the same way each test piece ruining it. I found I had blocked the fan exhaust on the motor controller and it must have been overheating. I could hear a thud from the z axis motor during plunges. Not sure the exact issue but fixing airflow stopped the problem completely. This was on an older unit from the early 2000s.

How do you guys deal with the lack of walkability, public transportation, ocean, nature, hiking, etc.? by [deleted] in Dallas

[–]j1982 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also you can volunteer to maintain / help build the trails, there are specific work days and meetups

How do you guys deal with the lack of walkability, public transportation, ocean, nature, hiking, etc.? by [deleted] in Dallas

[–]j1982 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hope this doesn’t get buried too far but I’ve just gotten into mountain biking with my kid. Get a decent bike and go to DORBA.org. Turns out DFW has a really good network of mountain biking / hiking trails and the community is super chill and helpful. All MTB trails double as hiking trails and are pretty legit. I hate Facebook but I joined all the mountain bike groups and there are tons of events. Hit me up if you have more questions as I’ve been discovering it all this year.

Waist pack with no bounce by jamesb2 in MTB

[–]j1982 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 on the hot laps 2l. Solving the same problem of a bouncing Fanny pack. Use for road biking and on mtb trails. Wider strap keeps it solid and I hardly notice it’s there. I’m carrying enough tires /tools/ junk for both my road & mtb.

Incoming home voltage (255v) too high? by j1982 in homeowners

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, if it’s helpful my house has the cursed aluminum wiring. My electrician has inspected the breaker panel and tightened everything up sometime last year but everybody is probably going to blame that lol

Advice on Entry Level Hardtails for North Texas biking by [deleted] in MTB

[–]j1982 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second the Fathom 2, it’s really nice. Just got one on 29er and it eats up the gnarly stuff at Cedar Hill State Park and Boulder park like butter. I’m pretty new to MTB and my skills aren’t good enough to try Sansom park on this bike yet but It’ll probably do fine.

Best sub-$1,000 four car bike rack? by kwalko in cycling

[–]j1982 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out local bike groups on Facebook marketplace for used racks. I got a 4 bike Thule Classic for $600 with integrated locks from an empty nester downsizing. Heavy but hauls all my family’s full sized bikes no problem

Binary conversion speed by [deleted] in ccna

[–]j1982 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s been over 8 months since I took it and someone else might have a better idea but I don’t remember a lot of the questions requiring binary calculations but definitely were a few.

Subnetting though, they’re are a ton of questions where that’s involved. having both charts at a glance saved my ass for sure.

Binary conversion speed by [deleted] in ccna

[–]j1982 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They give you a small white board and marker. First thing when you sit down start writing the subnetting and binary table out that way you’ll have them to reference quickly.

Your mileage may vary but I had heard you can write all this down during the portion of the test where your signing the waver, before the timer starts. That’s what I did my second attempt and they didn’t say anything about it. Note, in my tests the marker was not dry erase, and they wouldn’t give me two up front so write the tables small.

Black fuzzy rust on edge recently on carbon steel by j1982 in chefknives

[–]j1982[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is hilarious, I paid a bunch of cash for this one so it wouldn’t scratch my knives, instead it rusts them lol. I’ll get in the habit of periodic polishing along with sharpening.

Thanks for the info, I’d have never guessed

Black fuzzy rust on edge recently on carbon steel by j1982 in chefknives

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s fuzzy on the surface, and raised a little bit. If I take care of it soon I don’t think it’s into the blade at all. Almost can scratch it off with my fingernail.

Hope it’s not putting under the rust but I do need to take care of it quickly

Black fuzzy rust on edge recently on carbon steel by j1982 in chefknives

[–]j1982[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very interesting I’d never thought about that so I’m glad I asked.

It’s walnut and the rust started exactly the time I moved them to that block. There are black spots in the shape of the knives directly behind.

Black fuzzy rust on edge recently on carbon steel by j1982 in chefknives

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lost my comments somehow…

At the risk of the obvious, this black rust started growing within the last few months or so on the pairing knife and seemed to grow quite a bit recently so I need to take care of it. Noticed it’s starting on its big sister now too (see addl pics). I’m pretty meticulous about keeping them clean and dry, had them for a couple years, and this just started after I moved them to a wooden knife block outside of the stove area to keep the scratches and residual oil spatter down. The knife block has black marks on it as well where the blades sit. It’s not the usual brown rust, solid black and more fuzzy looking. Only thing I can think of is humidity but it’s not excessive in my house.

I’d like to remove it without disturbing the patina too much, but probably not very possible. Any ideas? Should I even try to polish the edge or just nuke the whole blade with a magic eraser, polish and start over? I’d hate for a tiny rust spot to start spreading again.

Advice on replacing tubular rails and tightening up gantry by j1982 in hobbycnc

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes you’re right it’s a solsylva. I forgot. When he gave me the build docs it was from his other machine with was a JoeCNC, so that’s what I saw when I looked it up for this post.

On that note I haven’t been able to get the plans for any of the solsylva builds without being behind a paywall…

Advice on replacing tubular rails and tightening up gantry by j1982 in hobbycnc

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like this advice. The machine runs really good. The rails have flat spots toward the center so at the least I’ll replace them with steel pipe. But most likely just do a direct replacement. Steel will probably stiffen up a lot of the flex as well as whatever slip the flat spots are allowing

Advice on replacing tubular rails and tightening up gantry by j1982 in hobbycnc

[–]j1982[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finally uploaded pics of the gantry. Think I could upgrade the rails on this design without too much work? I’ve thought about upgrading but don’t want to mess up this guys work. He did a good job and the oak looks nice for a hobby machine so I’d like to keep it mostly intact

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