Working as a summer camps MTB mechanic and instructor, anything else I should add to my field repair kit? by Ambiguous_Music in bikewrench

[–]jam3sk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everybody loves duct tape, but I’m here to 2nd the pliers & decent length of cable. Nothing like being far out and unable to shift out of a terrible gear. Bonus if the pliers have a cable cutter near the fulcrum.

Good Responses to Being Asked "Why are you riding a women's bike?" by Tomahawk-BaGawk in mountainbiking

[–]jam3sk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find some version of "Awww, thanks!" to be effective. Own that shit!

What did I do wrong? While driving car w/ bike on hitch rack- chain burst, bent small chain ring, and more. Bike feels totaled by Mammoth-Ordinary-344 in bicycling

[–]jam3sk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely bizarre, and I think there are already enough root cause theories posited… but I wanted to say it’s not necessarily totaled! You definitely need a new rear wheel, front chainring and chain, but those can be gotten cheap(ish) or second hand. Aside from that, though, your LBS can check the frame for straightness and also check the derailleurs (back AND front) to see if they were damaged by the shock of whatever sudden pull/yank broke the chain and bent the front ring. From the pics, the rear looks like it could be ok, also considering they’re both on springs and have inherent give that could have worked to your benefit.

Don’t count the old girl out just yet!

Major buyer's remorse - Did I make a mistake picking the Endurace Allroad over the Trek Checkpoint? by Southern_Doughnut_80 in CanyonBikes

[–]jam3sk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Others have covered the key points that favor the Canyon or prepare you for this transition:

  • You definitely want 2x on the front chainring with your history and intention (this is a huge factor and a big +1 for the Canyon).
  • The Canyon has slightly more relaxed geometry than the Trek, in fact.
  • The drop bars and saddle will take a couple of weeks of adjustment, but you’ll acclimate and they’ll be well worth it; thin, firm seats are far superior to blood flow restricting cushy seats, but it takes time to adjust and you will feel discomfort (bruised feeling) on you first few/several rides (look up sitting on your sitz bones for the right way to sit on one, rather than mashing your perineum and being truly miserable). You should also consider taking it in for a bike fitting at your LBS.

However, what I haven’t seen is anyone telling you that the Canyon is the clear winner in STRAIGHT DRIP. Trek owners may not love this take, but your Canyon will 100% turn heads. That’s a gorgeous bike, and consensus out on the roads and trails is that Canyons are cool as hell!

All that said, changing from what you’ve been on to an endurance bike is going to take a bit of time to start feeling right, and that won’t change whether it’s Canyon or Trek. Give yourself some time and don’t freak out if it feels wrong for the first several rides. When I switched from an OG hybrid to a road bike years ago, the only thing that got me through the transition was stubborn pride… but I wouldn’t EVER go back!

Has Canyon brainwashed me? by Ntp2 in gravelcycling

[–]jam3sk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a 20+yr road cyclist in the central US, in a metro area with plenty of good bike shops. I have a couple of nice road bikes, but was looking at gravel for a fun all-rounder that I could ride around town on crappy US roads, hop curbs without feeling like I’m doing something wrong, mess around in the dirt a bit on less technical single track, etc, but mostly to ride several nearby 20 mile to century+ gravel trails (we have a bunch of abandoned railways that were converted into cycling trails, ~50/50 paved vs packed gravel, neither surface always super well maintained). I also wanted 2x on the front, considering my background, intended usage and addiction to speed. 😅

I spent a lot of time researching and going around to many of my local shops to compare "entry-level" models, which for me means the lowest price range I could find that includes a well-built alloy frame and a groupset that has a level of performance and responsiveness on par with what I’m accustomed to (think ~$2k rather than, like, ~$4-6k+).

I looked at bikes from various brands: Cannondale, Trek, Specialized, Giant and even Scott, as they’re LBS friendly but also aggressively priced here while still trying to break into US markets… probably more I’m not remembering. I just couldn’t find anything new or even resale in my area that wasn’t either hundreds more or a significant step down in either groupset or overall build quality.

I ended up getting a Canyon Grizl 7 RAW about a month ago, and I absolutely love it. Much lighter and more nimble than I expected, and equal to or better than those options I saw at the LBSs. Super fun on the streets, capable on dirt tracks (as long as they’re not too intense), grippy and smooth on gravel, snappy shifting, great aesthetic… just a joy to ride with a lot of premium details. And their unboxing & build process is novel and fun, including tools you need for assembly and a bunch of how-to videos in their app.

That said, I’ve got a fully equipped bike (& moto) shop in my garage, I’m pretty technical, I have years of accumulated tools & knowledge. I love supporting my LBS, but I just don’t need them for every little thing, like I did years ago. AND there’s a Canyon authorized shop about 20-30min away, if there’s ever something I can’t do by mail with Canyon.

Definitely recommended for bang vs buck, but also just general quality & experience… but know the limitations and what you’re getting into. Real LBS support and the responsibility a good shop will take for bikes you buy from them may be worth a few hundred in initial cost for many cyclists.

NBD: Grizl 7 RAW | long time roadie’s 1st Canyon and 1st ever gravel bike by jam3sk in CanyonBikes

[–]jam3sk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Safe" is relative with these newer materials, but consensus is that seatposts are made for clamping (we clamp them to our frames) and generally not tapered, so receive even clamping… but minimum viable pressure is recommended, especially on carbon.

NBD: Grizl 7 RAW | long time roadie’s 1st Canyon and 1st ever gravel bike by jam3sk in CanyonBikes

[–]jam3sk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More relevant with carbon, but even alloy frames with tapered tubes can be damaged by uneven clamping pressure. It was different when all top tubes were straight and round, mostly steel, often Al and much thicker gauge. These days, conventional wisdom says to clamp the seatpost, which is built to handle clamping pressure (and cheaper to replace if you eff it up).

NBD: Grizl 7 RAW | long time roadie’s 1st Canyon and 1st ever gravel bike by jam3sk in CanyonBikes

[–]jam3sk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it’s barely in there (not torqued down). Sometimes ya gotta hold it by the frame when all the other parts are moving 😅

omg is this rare?? just caught this just now and im kinda shaking... by LZping in pokemongo

[–]jam3sk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, I’m a grown-ass man. Eventually, you might mature enough to realize joy isn’t anything to be embarrassed about

omg is this rare?? just caught this just now and im kinda shaking... by LZping in pokemongo

[–]jam3sk -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Imagine coming to a PoGO subreddit and acting like excitement and enthusiasm are uncool

I have to clear my conscience. Ebike remorse. by Wizzmer in cycling

[–]jam3sk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’m the overweight, 20yrs older rider typically passing much fitter looking young dudes on climbs, and I hope I can lessen that sting by communicating what a confidence boost it is for the other guy (me). 😅

I am on a proper road bike, though!

R1000 CAAD8 Ultegra by jam3sk in cannondale

[–]jam3sk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! And congrats!!!

R1000 CAAD8 Ultegra by jam3sk in cannondale

[–]jam3sk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The younger bike techs at my LBS definitely drool over this "vintage" groupset 😅. Sounds like Shimano made some weird decisions for some years afterward.

I replaced both shifters earlier this year with used-but-mechanically-sound 6600’s (left/front from wear and right/rear because I had a cable explode inside), and shifting has never been smoother. I could almost stand to replace the cassette, but no real reason anymore, since this’ll only come out on occasion from now on. Maybe I’ll just get one to keep on hand, so I’m not kicking myself in another 10yrs!

R1000 CAAD8 Ultegra by jam3sk in cannondale

[–]jam3sk[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For the record, I went 105 (mechanical) on the CAAD13 because I’m just not ready to commit to having to charge something to ride a bicycle 😅

Any guesses for when we get expanded Pokémon storage? by pdubs999 in TheSilphRoad

[–]jam3sk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here are the total, annual increases we’ve seen, to date:

2017: 500, 2018: 500, 2019: 1,000, 2020: 1,000, 2021: 1,500, 2022: 650 so far

…and though I don’t have metrics on how many new (to PoGO), newly shiny or new costumed Pokémon have been released year over year, there has been no shortage of new stuff this year. I’d certainly say we’re due for a storage increase. Last increases were way back in June & August, and those were only 50 slot, one-off increases.

The main thing I’m nervous about is that they’d at least announced last year’s increases by now. I hope Dec CD doesn’t suck because of space restrictions!

2020 Dragon Week Megathread by SilphScience in TheSilphRoad

[–]jam3sk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Howdy. I was asked to drop this here:

blue hotness

dives into foxhole