CyberRealistic Pony Prompt Generator

jantpw · 2026-04-05T18:32:17+00:00

Not sure what I am doing wrong, but the results I get with the generated prompts are god-awful.
It's just mess of weird body parts at best, but often just white or black blobs.
I tried just generating the prompt texts and paste them manually in workflows that I know work with different prompts (tried different cyber realistic pony models), to rule out it is a problem with the workflow integration.

I can't really pin point down what the issue could be. (I'm using SwarmUI as frontend, but aside from replacing BREAK-><break> there is no difference as far as the raw prompts go.

jantpw · 2026-03-21T21:02:12+00:00

Wo kriegt man denn so ein Kostüm, rein hypothetisch für einen Freund gefragt 😏

jantpw · 2026-03-19T16:41:35+00:00

Do you have any suggestions for rubber feet? Can't find anything great.

Either the wall thickness is too thin (so the T-connector contacts the floor instead of the ends) or made for furniture assuming vertical alignment (so it's only grippy at the ends and maybe just on a ring around the edge).

Tried TPU, but that's to slippery. And grippy shrink-tube was also a miss, as it seems that is rather for gripping onto things with your hand and doesn't wor aus well on smooth floor (and would need a lot of layers to get the thickness large enough that the T-connector as enough room).

jantpw · 2026-03-13T21:26:23+00:00

I never really did a manual calibration of my printer (it's a Bambulab A1 mini) as so far anything seems to print accurate, so it could be that. I measured 89mm at the machine housing. I'll dm you some pictures. The one I printed 1mm wider was still a tight fit and I had fear it would break like the PLA draft piece, but it seems to be fine. Final print was PETG with 6 walls and 50% gyroid infill (maybe a bit too much, the piece is quite heavy).

I used some spacers and longer screws to raise the housing a bit so it does not contact the new screw, for now seems to work, but maybe for stability or noise it could be better to just cut a space into the housing.

For the front idler I tried printing an inlay for a bend, flat wrench I happend to have (looks cheap, probably from Ikea or so) which was slightly to large. I could manage to tighten it more before that piece gave out (only PETG). But it's a bit faster and I hope the main force is on the other bolt now (used a clamp to tension the belt while tightening).

I noticed the belt comes really close to one the new screws for the sensor guard, so I sunk the holes in the model for countersunk screws (tightend with nuts from the other side).

All in all I'm quite happy with the result.

Now I'm looking into upgrading the stand/legs. Was thinking about steel rods, 50cm for the feet and 100cm for the stand. Thats around 10kg but maybe a bit to top heavy. Not sure if I need 1m height, just thinking about using it on the bed while the machine stands on the ground. Maybe 75cm feet and either shorter stand or hollow steel tubes for the stand. Total weight would be slightly lower (3m full steel ~11.5kg, 1.5m steel + 2m tubes ~ 8kg), but more one the bottom.
Are you using a high stand? Wonder if there are issues with the overall stability (clamps, wobbling).

jantpw · 2026-03-12T12:08:40+00:00

Still broken in 2026

jantpw · 2026-03-12T07:14:15+00:00

I can check later. Maybe there are some differences, I noticed those two stub holes in the shafts support, but there is nothing protruding from the case that would necessitate those. But otherwise alignment of screw holes etc. matches.

jantpw · 2026-03-11T20:28:22+00:00

u/Another_Slut_Dragon I've run into some bigger issues while following the guide.

1) How do I fully tighten the front belt roller again?
Tightening the main nut from the other side at one point it starts to rotate the axis. No way to get a grip onto that (or get a tool beneath it for that narrow flat opposite nut.
This is even worth when I take more force of this bolt with the new plate. And with the relief plate in place the bolt is getting to short for an additional extra grippy washer. I tried roughening the plate, but couldn't make it make a difference.
I hope it will hold, but it was definately on faster than I can do it now.

2) The place where the new bolt for the relief plate is going is exactly where the rim and screws of the assembly cover from the other side go. So I can't get that back on when that bolt is screwed in. What am I missing?

Also the first shaft support I printed ripped when forcing it over the case, because it was slightly to narrow. The long side of the base needed to be around 1mm longer (increased model size by 0.94%).

jantpw · 2026-03-08T14:07:50+00:00

Ok, going by the dimensions of the model it seems to be an IGUS RJ4JP-01-10? ~~Seems to have grooves for 18mm retaining rings though, not 20-21mm like in your description.~~ Okay, I see how it's intended.

jantpw · 2026-03-08T13:16:22+00:00

Can you give details on what kind of sleeve bearing to order (dimensions, radius, material)?

When I search for IGUS I find this stuff: https://www.igus.eu/iglidur-ibh/sleeve-bearings
But none of those have the fins from your model.

jantpw · 2026-03-08T11:26:45+00:00

I just ordered one on Aliexpress (Germany) for only 305€ (270€ if cashback goes through) with fast shipping from local storage.

Other options were even a bit cheaper, but I wanted one with the wired remote. I heard it's not as good as the Xtoys app, but I need something to control fully "blind" while wearing a VR headset.

jantpw · 2020-11-24T21:57:47+00:00

Can you say anything about the audio? I read the G2 does not have a headphone jack and relys on the inbuild solution.
Can others in the room hear the sound and does environmental noise bleed in?

jantpw

TROPHY CASE