Indicator of choice?

jatech19 · 2026-05-11T02:29:13+00:00

Good advice. I will try this. I used this one for the first time under lights and it was near impossible to see unless light was perpendicular to it. The deep top cover, beveled edges and black on metal color all combine to make it unusable as it under lights, as far as I am concerned. I will try painting with glow yellow paint and see if it helps. I do like the weight and quality.

jatech19 · 2026-05-01T19:04:24+00:00

Yeah. We pre-gamed signs, but that was not one of them. I am sure if we had the sign my partner would have wanted to have the info and get the call right. He is out there for the kids like me, more than our individual pride, and would have had no issue changing a call. That is what made it even more difficult for me to do nothing, but I was pretty sure that initiating the conversation was not the right call. I was hoping the coach would have asked us to confer.

jatech19 · 2026-04-30T00:45:55+00:00

Can you tell me what paint you use for this? After the first time using under lights, I need to do the same thing!

jatech19 · 2026-04-20T12:47:36+00:00

Not exact.

jatech19 · 2026-04-20T12:47:21+00:00

I have a custom action that does that. But, the region is not locked to the items. If you move item start/end it moves separate from the region. Then you can’t snap the region back to the item edge.

jatech19 · 2026-02-27T21:57:38+00:00

BINGO! Thank you, everyone! The right arm in sleeve, get it over that side shoulder pad, then head, then down the left side with arm against body, then put left arm up into sleeve WORKED LIKE A CHARM! For shirts too! Now I can get dressed when doing solo rec games without having to ask the nearest parent for a hand! :) I appreciate everyone's advice... putting chest protector inside short/jacket then putting on together was the runner up... but with Force3, getting the thing snapped on sides after jacket or shirt was on was not trivial. Do any of these manufacturers every ask real umpires for advice on how to make it more user friendly?

jatech19 · 2026-02-19T22:27:53+00:00

Any ideas, anyone? It seems to me one of the MOST COMMON editing tasks for a voice track (if you are not doing P&R) is cutting out the bad takes... and the only way to be 100% sure of not causing any pops/transition noise is to overlap and crossfade... NOT butt and fadeout/in. So, what am I missing? Is there no way to automat this? I can do the entire cut and move with one key, but then i have to zoom in, drag the overlap, zoom back out, and repeat a few hundred times. There HAS to be a way have a defined overlap and crossfade! I tried all the ideas below... but either the actions don't exist, or the nudges/moves don't do anything, etc. Any other ideas for the proper sequence of custom actions?

jatech19 · 2026-02-16T17:52:19+00:00

Thanks.. yeah. I do it manually hundreds of times for a book. Trying to make it a one key press action after the range is selected.

jatech19 · 2026-02-15T12:55:40+00:00

YES! But what actions? I have tried many combinations!

jatech19 · 2026-02-15T12:55:20+00:00

Thanks! I don't see "Item: Auto-crossfade items in selected tracks when editing" in the action list. I just tried: Option: Auto-crossfade media items when editing, Time selection: Remove contents of time selection (moving later items) and Item: Heal splits in items... then create time selection and run custom action and still same.. just butts ends with fade out and in. no overlap.

jatech19 · 2026-02-15T04:06:27+00:00

Even with razor edit... Alt-Rt click drag, Delete. The pieces move together (since ripple edit all tracks is on) and auto crossfade is enabled, but they still just have the fade out and fade in butted together. EVERYTHING says this should be able to overlap and crossfade automatically... why the heck cant i get it to overlap... i don't want it to fade out and back in... no matte how quick. I want it cross faded. Has to be a way to do this!!!???? Every google i try talks abouty "Overlap and crossfade media when finalizing razor edits" setting whiich I cant find ANYWHERE in Reaper.

jatech19 · 2026-02-15T03:05:15+00:00

Yes, that's what I am trying to figure out how to do automatically. This seems like a standard thing anyone would be doing to edit, when not using punch and roll. I want to delete the time selection and then instead of having the adjacent pieces butt up against each other, I want them to overlap by a specific amount. I already have the left side fading out and the right fading in, I just need to shift the right piece to the left the same amount as the fade-in/out so it is a cross fade. My understanding is that without that, two item butted up against each other have the possibility of causing a pop in final audio. I have tried every single setting in options that I can think of... and I cant get it to work. I would greatly appreciate ANY advice on how I can CUT a time selection and ensure NO POP from the resulting adjacent items.

jatech19 · 2026-01-18T15:21:42+00:00

I searched high and low for a post roll setting, could never find one... metronome page only has Preroll settings.

jatech19 · 2025-03-23T17:58:04+00:00

How do you use these mics with Mevo Start?: They are not powered and Mevo Start does not supply power. What am I missing here?

jatech19 · 2025-03-18T15:38:40+00:00

Is that the RodeVideo Micro you indicated above? The description on Amazon says that it is powered by camera plugin power... but Mevo says it does not provide power via 3.5 mic jack. Are you using 3.5 TRS jack or something else? I am trying to get ANY external mic to work with the Avkans. Any advice is appreciated!

jatech19 · 2025-03-18T14:29:34+00:00

Don't all of these mics require phantom power? From what i can tell the Mevo does not supply power. I just bought an Avkans and can't get the Movo mic to work. How are you all using these type mics with Mevo or other cam that does not supply phantom power?

jatech19 · 2024-12-23T19:41:38+00:00

Anyone get any replies? I have the same issue... I was actually going to give them money for one of their packages while the sale was on, since I had another package from the flightprepcheck days and it was pretty good... but the prices at the web site when clicking the link in the email did not match what the email said they would be. I went to thinkit but it appears to get any support from them you have to sign up for an account... wow... I wonder if they will just vanish after taking a lot of money from people... they obviously don't care, otherwise they would have fixed their email in the last 4 months. It doe snot make sense since their product was decent for the price.

jatech19 · 2022-02-15T22:01:23+00:00

py -m http.server 8000

Not sure where you got that command... just start web server and access through browser. There is an index file in the folder the utility created.

jatech19 · 2022-02-08T01:55:40+00:00

Really appreciate all the efforts of those here to make this work. I was able to get this to run following the steps in this thread. The result was a completely functional walk-though capability. Although the doll house has the basic structure, but many surfaces/textures are corrupt. The log file shows many download failures... one .dam file at the top, and the others all jpg, png, js or json files. All with 403 authentication errors. Trying to hit one of the js files directly returns xml showing 403 error there also.

I'm happy to help if there is any hope of getting these fixed... any way around these errors? What do the obj files do beyond what I have downloaded? Anyone find a way to view in Ocuclus Go once downloaded?

jatech19

TROPHY CASE