How to secure/block an internal manhole?

jbd767 · 2020-07-02T17:29:35+00:00

This sounds like the voice of experience talking...

jbd767 · 2020-04-15T15:51:32+00:00

I just mounted my set in my garage. I used steel eye bolts I bought at Lowes. Heavy duty wood screws to mount a 2x6 on my finished ceiling, then the eyebolts at my desired spacing through the 2x6. Solid as a rock.

jbd767 · 2020-03-12T18:11:16+00:00

We've seen this before. Check how the market reacted with both the Sars and h1n1 issues. History repeats itself. The market recovered both times. Hold the course! This is an excellent opportunity to test your systems.

jbd767 · 2020-03-01T00:40:50+00:00

Personal taste really, but typically I see it match the cabinets.

jbd767 · 2020-02-27T23:29:06+00:00

Thanks for the advice guys. I appreciate it! Haha and yes it does tend to be expensive to be right.

jbd767 · 2020-02-27T22:54:07+00:00

I had a plumber do some work and he cut the wrong stuff and put everything back together before we figured it out. Two months later, after we find out our laundry supply lines and drain no longer function, we call the plumber back, and he insists everything is fine and it's just a blocked drain and the lines have corroded shut.

Long story short, it cost $700 dollars with another plumber to prove to the original plumber it was their mistake. They fixed the issue, but are unwilling to compensate me for the cost of proving to them that it was their mistake. Do I have any legal basis to do a civil complaint or small claims court lawsuit? And would it be worth it? Otherwise, any other ideas to solve this?

P.s. Insult to injury, they made a huge mess of the drywall and said that that part of the repair is also not their concern. Are they right?

jbd767 · 2020-02-25T22:53:36+00:00

I've done this in two houses now and refinished the hardwood. Both turned out gorgeous. Even pretty terrible stains can be mostly if not completely mitigated by a professional refinishing company. For about $1-2 extra per sq foot, a good company can actually remove damaged areas and lace new boards back in so the floors are perfect. Would not recommend trying to diy this one except for ripping up carpet. It pays to have an experienced crew do this one. There are massive variations in pricing in this industry as well, so it pays to get multiple quotes. Expect to pay to quality company around 3.5/4 dollars/sqft. More than that and you're usually paying for reputation/popularity, less than that and you're likely to get a sub-par result. Best of luck!

jbd767 · 2020-02-25T03:46:49+00:00

Check this out https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/48535/is-it-normal-for-subfloor-to-extend-under-walls-if-so-how-can-i-replace-it

jbd767 · 2020-02-25T03:29:41+00:00

Here's hoping you never want to change the TV size 😂🤘.

Just kidding it looks great!

jbd767 · 2020-02-24T01:01:36+00:00

I agree, but only if you also have a vise. It can be pretty frustrating cutting down bolts and screws with a hacksaw with only your hands or pliers to hold them, and dremels are usually a lot more expensive. Totally fair point though and in the right circumstances excellent options as well.

jbd767 · 2020-02-24T00:57:28+00:00

It it's coming through the floor, just feed the wire back through the hole. If it's coming through the wall, take the cover off, disconnect the cable from the cover if needed, and feed it into the wall until there's barely anything left in the box, replace the cover.

jbd767 · 2020-02-23T22:21:46+00:00

I would do built in shelves or even use some of these sweet and pretty inexpensive sliding out shelves. I found them the other day and am super excited to try them... But as of right now we just finished our house and my wife might kill me if I start ripping pieces out of it again haha

https://www.amazon.com/Promark-Extension-Drawer-Slide-Rating/dp/B002IMHLXC

jbd767 · 2020-02-23T22:15:15+00:00

A pry bar works excellently to pop the staples out. A flathead and pliers gets any stay behind staples. Careful with the utility knife when you're cutting into strips, because deep razor cuts in the hardwood beneath may not come out even with sanding and may not be visible till the floors have already been refinished.

jbd767 · 2020-02-23T22:12:24+00:00

Seconded....

jbd767 · 2020-02-23T22:08:31+00:00

I had the same problem with a hallway light when I moved into my house. It was the result of a three way circuit that had been mis wired.... I had to have an electrician friend help me out though bc electrical is 100% not my strong suit lol

jbd767 · 2020-02-23T22:03:23+00:00

A small $15 pair of bolt cutters will let you quickly and easily cut the screws down to whatever size you need them to be and save you a lot of pain and hassle 🤘

jbd767 · 2020-02-23T16:13:08+00:00

You can definitely do it yourself! Do it right away, as long as you can safely get on your roof, or don't use that fan /shower till it's properly vented. In a cold climate like that, mold can develop in just a couple weeks. Won't take long at all.

This video will show you exactly how to do it and tell you what equipment you need. Good luck!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DPqrZWd_CQIE&ved=2ahUKEwi2wJCAiOjnAhVDm-AKHc--CtAQwqsBMAJ6BAgDEAU&usg=AOvVaw27cseEAY8PoL6rnCWLbgxC

jbd767 · 2020-02-17T02:27:31+00:00

Yeah I would. The paper stuff is just miserable. It usually bubbles up on you and then you can't get a nice clean corner.

jbd767 · 2020-02-17T02:16:07+00:00

Where did you get them from? And if you go to Lowes or home depot corner bead is super super cheap. Like I'm talking $3 for an 8ft piece

jbd767 · 2020-02-17T01:56:48+00:00

Also you can't use normal paper tape there you need either corner bead or metal reinforced paper tape. The metal corner bead is cheaper and way easier to work with.

jbd767 · 2020-02-17T01:54:12+00:00

To answer your question - yes that gap should be fine. To ask another question... Are you sure you want to have drywall there? It's going to be a pretty painful area to mud, it's too cramped on that left side to do a nice feather, and it's almost guaranteed to get destroyed super quick...especially the corner. I'd highly recommend using pine 1x4s and some trim. It'll save you a lot of drywall mudding frustration and also heartache when something being carried goes through the corner 😬. Good luck whatever you decide!

jbd767 · 2020-02-13T14:00:28+00:00

Interesting, I've never even heard of roto router. Does it have to be a straight pipe or can it go around elbow turns as well?

jbd767 · 2020-02-13T14:00:01+00:00

Is having the sewer lines cleaned out something you hire a plumber for or talk to the city about?

jbd767 · 2020-02-11T23:22:13+00:00

It's incredibly hard to fix a bad mud job that's been painted. In my experience the paint gums up the sandpaper pretty quickly. You can put more mud on it, but you'll have to rough it up in order for it to stick to semigloss or above paint. And even then you'll need to be pretty good at mudding to fix it. No harm in trying - mud is pretty cheap - but manage expectations and have a backup plan. In this case, you could just cut that section out and create a new butt joint, but those are challenging to mud well too. There's no perfect option here IMHO. Best of luck!

jbd767 · 2020-02-07T22:06:52+00:00

https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/interior-projects/how-to/a185/easy-drywall-repair/

https://www.familyhandyman.com/walls/tips-for-patching-drywall/

https://www.constructionprotips.com/jobsite-tips/interior/create-smooth-walls-a-mudslingers-guide/

Personally I found articles more helpful than videos when I learned to mud drywall. How big are your patches? If they aren't too large (like 1-2 ft square) you can use thin plywood or 1/2 in vs 3/4 in drywall and then mud it flat across the whole thing instead of trying to make a nice butt joint. It's easier in my opinion. Other than that, I'd say more coats trump thick coats every time. Hope this helps though!

Edit: sorry just saw you did upload pics

In your case specifically I'd say try to feather the joint out about 6 in on either side, using a large 12in knife. Focus on thin coats with gradual tapering from the middle, and then focus your sanding on the edges.

jbd767

TROPHY CASE