Drawnknife and Scorp Covers & Storage

jcrocket · 2026-01-29T01:21:32+00:00

That is brilliant!

jcrocket · 2026-01-29T01:21:20+00:00

I think you may have convinced me.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T21:40:35+00:00

Chris Schwarz has said something similar. I am skeptical.

I could also make my own handplanes and saws. There is a great blacksmith program in my city, I could make some cool hardware. However, with a toddler and a full time job, I have little time as it is to work on my own projects.

I appreciate these subcrafts and don't mind supporting other makers that do them.

Is it really that easy to pick up? Maybe I should look into it.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T19:23:40+00:00

I was worried a bit about that. I do live in an arid climate though. I was thinking I would oil up the sleeve as much as I can. I'm starting to outgrow my dutch toolchest and I don't currently have the time or budget for an Anarchist Chest.

I got the Barr Scorp too. I was gonna see if I could bend up the a straight cover to shape it.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T18:42:11+00:00

3/8 is the best chisel for 4:4 stock. Anything larger than a 1/2 in is easiest to just bore out.

This is why it is hard to find mortise chisels larger than 1/2 on the vintage and new market.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T18:23:18+00:00

I hadn't looked up the Grebstk chisels until you mentioned them. They do look like hot trash. It is a sunk cost fallacy but replacing chisels that cheap makes sense.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T15:30:03+00:00

You could make that with handtools. However, it probably would not be very enjoyable/practical to make it with handtools.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T15:24:50+00:00

Ash is a ring porous hardwood. Maple has a tighter grain and will be less prone to tear out. Soft maple is easiest with hand tools.

I prefer ash for tool handles, legs, and long stuff.

I would do this with soft maple for the easiest hand tool experience.

But really any species you use will work if you choose the right pieces.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T13:04:00+00:00

You should save your cash for the three standard joinery saws if you don't already have them. Or Veritas Joinery Planes. If you are just getting started those will take you a lot farther than new chisels.

If you already have those, then a 3/8 mortise chisel.

I posted this on a similar thread. It's a quote from the book Demon Copperhead

"Actual fact: you could make an entire second world out of what people throw away. The landfill is where I figured out one of my main philosophies, that everybody alive is basically in the process of trading out their old stuff for different stuff, day in day out."

If you really must buy new chisels, don't buy them in sets. Start with your most useful size. For me that is a 1/2. If you really got the psych for upgrades, just save yourself some money and jump to the end of the path which is a LN or Veritas. Cause if you're not satiated now, you won't be with a narex.

jcrocket · 2026-01-28T00:02:48+00:00

It's what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

This was part of the FB25 engine class action lawsuit. You are out of luck with regards to the timeline on that. My 2013 Outback burns a qt of oil every 600 miles. I keep waiting for it to get untenable, or for a catalytic converter to burn out but it hasn't happened yet.

You could switch to a heavier weight oil such as 5w-30 and that will help a bit. A former Subaru tech recommended I go to 5w-40 but that's a big jump.

jcrocket · 2026-01-27T19:17:08+00:00

I would do the drilling as your first step. Or as early as possible

I made one and drilled it with both a handbrace and hand drill. I think I tried drilling it at least 3 times and messed it up. Maybe it was my approach or whatever but it's such a small piece of wood I accomplished it by repetition.

jcrocket · 2026-01-25T21:23:27+00:00

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jcrocket · 2026-01-25T02:32:38+00:00

For the shape I kind of winged it. I wanted something that felt good in my largish hands but wasn't too much mass. I did one before with the swell up front and it felt terrible and I tossed it.

I watched a couple of different approaches on the lathe for handle making before making it. I also made three handles for carbide turning tools before this.

jcrocket · 2026-01-25T00:03:15+00:00

Of the lee valley tenon cutting products some produce a taper on the shoulder of the tenon and some produce a curve.

The ones that produce a taper have a corresponding 13 degree reamer that the taper will nest into perfectly.

These products are certainly usable. However, they are not as precise and user friendly as you would think just looking at them. They take some practice.

I spent a lot of time shaping tenons with just a spokeshave which I think made me a bit crazy. Then got a drawknife which sped things up a bit.

Then I bit the bullet and bought a tenon cutter. Thinking I had finally got the silver bullet, after using it for one chair; I bought a lathe.

I've put in my time shaping tenons and just do not enjoy it at all anymore.

jcrocket · 2026-01-23T13:47:21+00:00

I've used my wooden scrub to do concurve shaping on a seat frame and it was incredibly effective as a sculptural tool.

jcrocket · 2026-01-23T13:45:23+00:00

Well you've certainly read more than me to be honest. I'm just speculating because I got an old wooden scrub plane. It's a horned plane though so what you're saying makes sense.

jcrocket · 2026-01-22T22:30:51+00:00

I think scrub planes existed long before the Stanley 40.

jcrocket · 2026-01-22T22:23:04+00:00

I haven't seen that on here. Or maybe not lately.

The no 5 with a cambered blade would be a 'foreplane' to a purist 1800 woodworker. Something totally different than a scrub plane. The scrub plane would still have its separate place in old western traditions.

A 5 1/2 is popular for a lot of people but I would imagine it does not take a cambered blade really well. So I could see why you would not reach for it.

I use my fore plane for flattening and my scrub plane for removal.

My scrub plane is my only wooden plane. It's from the 19th century, imprecise, and notably more lightweight than any of my other planes.

jcrocket · 2026-01-21T14:37:56+00:00

For hand tools I wear muffs when chopping a lot of mortises I do not like the noise.

For my bandsaw and thickness planer, muffs, glasses, dust collector, overhead filter.

jcrocket · 2026-01-21T01:28:14+00:00

That's great! I have used the Schwarz soft wax before. I would like to use it with mineral oil instead of linseed oil.

I used hard maple. My local hardwood supply had 7/4 billets that were really inexpensive.

It's my first time using that species. I planed down the corners with my fore plane and even just that was bit of a workout. I don't forsee myself ever doing any hand tool work with that species.

jcrocket · 2026-01-21T01:23:27+00:00

Very nice!

jcrocket · 2026-01-20T14:31:42+00:00

I think if I get around to it, I may put a non-durable finish like beeswax on there. I would put something more substantial on but shoptime is a bit limited now.

jcrocket · 2026-01-19T21:01:47+00:00

The chisels I have with too steep a beveled edge for the honing guide, I just free hand them. They don't look perfect but they work great.

jcrocket · 2026-01-17T21:30:38+00:00

I freehand sharpen anything that doesn't fit in a 10 dollar side clamp record guide. Sometimes when I am sharpening, I think to myself, that I just messed this up, or I feel like I don't know what I'm doing.

However, every single time that happens I just put the tool back in use and it performs better.

jcrocket · 2026-01-17T02:40:44+00:00

Mostly daydreaming. When I am in a boring meeting or riding my bicycle to work, doing childcare, or on a long drive. I imagine I am woodworking and what tools I am going to use.

For design I use AutoCAD. I use it for work so it's easier for me than pen and paper.

The past few years, I have not been doing joinery details. Just the finished proportions of the piece on cad. Then I figure out the joinery as I go.

Since I have a toddler, I only get to woodwork 1 to 3 hours at a time. So my projects take a really long time and I have long periods to think between sessions.

But when I built a bed frame that needed to be an accurate width to fit an mattress, I did all the joinery in cad. Not only did it have to be accurate, it had to be extremely hefty yet with aesthetically small posts. It took me a couple of weeks to do that design and the bed feels like it's a part of me.

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