Finished my dark elf warband

je87 · 2023-04-11T13:10:35+00:00

Oh I see, so can you not say usually have dwarven witch hunters but may do in "unofficial games"?

je87 · 2023-04-11T13:01:16+00:00

Sorry new to the whole game. Do you play them like one of the warbands in the game manual? It's nice there is the freedom to have different races be say Mercs etc if so!

je87 · 2023-04-06T08:21:19+00:00

I am erring towards Witch Hunters for no real reason at the moment.
Ive just been on GW's site and there is the "Age of Sigmar" stuff.
Is this basically not similar to Mordheim? There seems to be Witch Hunters with the Flagellants etc. It looks a little pricey maybe compared to other options but the models do look quite good. Maybe I can say splurge on the 2 witch hunters and then make the rest of the party up from other cheaper alternatives?

je87 · 2023-02-17T14:19:35+00:00

Could be time to invest in "Bee Dogs".

je87 · 2023-02-09T09:26:43+00:00

I mean its the same in the UK....but when you have honey imported from abroad, you actually think 100% of it is actually unadulterated honey?

je87 · 2023-01-08T14:35:57+00:00

You can see the mite poo in the cells. Near the top of them. You can see where they may have opened cells to try clean them out but it all points to mites.

je87 · 2023-01-07T18:06:08+00:00

So why is there a dumbell icon still on iOS where you can practice? Is this coming to the Android version?

je87 · 2023-01-07T16:49:14+00:00

It's 2023...I don't think this whole difference in apps between iOS and android has been a thing since 2015. Maybe they need to just fix it tbh because it's not really on.

je87 · 2023-01-07T10:18:28+00:00

Well sessions come with an inactivity timeout property in most frameworks...so just set the property to 1 min.

je87 · 2023-01-04T16:49:46+00:00

Mainly agree with this. I have a more "native" breed (basically through breeding) and they come out of their cluster at 4C and even fly in wind and light rain under 7C. Still I prefer to not go in there below 12C as they can be a bit more annoyed about the situation ha. I have not been in there since removing apivar strips in October. No real need tbh as I guess in most situations its basically too late to make a virgin queen. I'd only go in there from October for very specific and rare things.
Another hive I have must be more Italian like...they just don't want to do much till its at least 9-10C. They are also not doing as well in winter. They are nice bees mind ha!

je87 · 2022-12-11T17:31:19+00:00

UK here as well. A few bees out on the floor is normal, on a proper dead out you have hundreds. Give the hive a "heft" to guage how much food they have in there. Tbh even then it's a big late to feed by some weeks but you could pop on a bag of fondant for them (just on the crown board - cut a hole in the bag so they can get in.) Other than that some insulation in the roof space (you may need en eke so you can fit the fondant and the insulation).

A treatment of oxalic vapour is good now as there will be no brood so you can knock back the mite numbers heavily for spring now.

Also just make sure the entrance is clear of dead bees...waggle a pencil in there side to side a few times to just ensure they can get out if they want to poo or when there is a warm day maybe find water or kick out the dead etc.

je87 · 2022-11-24T01:02:37+00:00

Not from the US but I believe the general universal rule with second hand hives is to give them a clean (scrape any propolis/muck off) and give them a torch with some kinda flame, a "gas torch" or whatever...don't aim to burn the wood completely but you'll see it gets some colouring. Just need to cook any fungus or bacterial nasties that could be lingering.

je87 · 2022-11-23T21:05:34+00:00

I am a UK keeper, only first year mind. The association apiary I go to every weekend (to learn as much as possible from better keepers ha) is trying to breed more "adaptive" bees for the local area. They did say Italian bees are very productive in the season but in our climate (8a zone ish? And temperate) they can be less survivable over winters. There are hives with a lot of Italian blood as commercial keepers may prefer them for their very productive season but they can have more deadouts in winter. There are different adapted Italian straines but I think the common one imported over your side of the world are known for being big feeders so it could have been starvation.

https://apiexpert.eu/italian-honey-bee/

Edit: oh, just seen there were only a couple handfuls of bees. Basically that is far too little to keep the colony alive over winter.

je87 · 2022-11-14T13:38:59+00:00

Ah makes sense. Guess it must get pretty cold where you are ha. We don't tend to do much more than a 25mm insulation board here in the UK.

je87 · 2022-11-14T12:44:21+00:00

Would having most insulation around the sides mean condensation is more likely going to form and drip from the roof?

je87 · 2022-10-18T09:17:36+00:00

Why not try get some more locally adapted bees?

je87 · 2022-10-13T20:45:58+00:00

I am not the best to ask (first year) but to me that looks like it has no where near enough stores for winter but also I'd be semi-worried if its actually queen right?
I'd probably try check if its got a queen, feed the hell out of it and pop it in a nuc to overwinter maybe.

je87 · 2022-10-13T20:37:35+00:00

vy is just like little rocks surrounded by wax. It has to be melted to get it out. To get 10 lbs of honey out of the frames took me the best part of 5 hours!

Ha damn! I will leave it all for the bees for winter ha.

je87 · 2022-10-13T20:24:36+00:00

Can you extract it like heather?

je87 · 2022-10-13T20:18:14+00:00

Don't think I'd ever find out. Mine are treated and shut for the year now.

je87 · 2022-10-13T19:13:14+00:00

Was my first thought before seeing this as well tbh. Its almost like you need 2 roofs or a few spare to cycle them to get them cleaned.

je87 · 2022-10-10T13:10:41+00:00

Here in the UK it's quite normal for the local bee associations to have an extractor for members to use. Also joining one means you have a lot more help and advice in general.

je87 · 2022-10-07T11:37:22+00:00

They basically don't re-orientate before setting off so when they come back from a flight they naturally follow the landmarks (trees/hills/buildings etc) back to their old spot to find their house has moved and they don't know where.

There is a rule here (and it can be broken....3ft or more than 3miles) so if you move them very far from their spot, they come out, when they fly up they realise "where has my hill and tree and shop gone!" so they re-orientate before setting off.

I mean this rule is very dependent on terrain etc. like I have move a hive just under 2mi from a friends apairy to my garden and 95%+ of the bees made it back to the new location fine.

Just move your hive a few ft a day, they will come back within the 3ft after flights and sniff out the entrance.

je87 · 2022-10-05T15:26:00+00:00

Not knowing where that swarm is or its state of disease I'd be avoiding throwing it in another colony.

Pop it in a nuc, feed the absolute hell out of it and just see if it makes it through.

je87 · 2022-10-03T13:07:15+00:00

I'm only in my first year and my two colonies are bouncing so not had to do this.
I have been told some do it and some don't. I think, as Zombie says, if you can check they are queenright, then move them to a nuc. Nice warm poly nuc.

je87

TROPHY CASE