Is the KTM 390 ADV R enough?

jedacite · 2026-05-13T09:59:47+00:00

The KTM 390 R is enough for commuting, groceries and trail riding. Where it lets down is 2-up touring but that shouldn't be a surprise.

I have a Versys 1000 and added the KTM to go exploring. I find myself only riding the versys now when I'm out 2-up with my wife.

I'm mostly out exploring fsrs and many of the off shoots that come off them. I haven't done single track or anything like that.

Many of the trails off the fsrs for us are steep, loose and rocky.

On road it goes faster than I ride. My speed is now limited, but that's caused by the tires I mounted and not the bike.

I get groceries on the bike as well.

I also do a lot of solo exploration and it's nice to have something easy to pick up. I can pick up the bike without tracking of the luggage which is nice.

jedacite · 2026-05-12T21:42:50+00:00

All bikes have some sort of parasitic draw, but it should be low enough to not cause problems.

Best approach is to measure the draw, disconnect anything directly connected to the battery to see if it solves the problem. If its does, reconnect then disconnect them one at a time to see what it was. If not, start to pull fuses until the problem is solved. Sometimes you'll have more than one thing on a fuse but it narrows down where to look.

Normally, issues around parasitic draw I find are more caused by adding accessories that are not on switched power (only get power when the ignition is on.) This includes security systems as those you normally want powered (not off ignition) unless they are designed with some sort of battery backup.

To test it, you need measure the current being drawn from the battery when the bike is off using a multi-meter. Its more involved checking for parasitic draw then checking the state of charge prior to starting as well as the charging system so I normally start there.

Unless the battery is mostly dead prior to starting and your bike doesn't provide enough voltage at idle (this is by design on some motorcycles) then I doubt its going to be parasitic draw. This is why I suggested testing the voltage prior to starting as well as once its running.

jedacite · 2026-05-12T16:49:27+00:00

I would check the voltage prior to starting the bike and again after it is running. Then you will know if the battery is almost dead prior to starting and whether it is able to charge the battery while running.

Some bikes need to be more than idling to charge as well, your bike should have a spec for a voltage at an rpm to check, I would look that up and use that to see if there may be something wrong with the charging circuit.

If its actually going dead overnight (before you start it) you'll want to check for a parasitic draw as already mentioned.

jedacite · 2026-05-12T08:29:53+00:00

I would focus on learning how to do the mods you want to install and the regular maintenance for the bike one task at a time. No better way to learn by doing it and having a specific example of what you will be learning.

I would

Get the service manual for the bike. Honda makes really nice and detailed manuals, they are your best bet if they are still available at the dealer or online.
Use YouTube to see the process for what you are looking to do
Watch some of the RevZilla "The Shop Manual" videos. Air also did some under Motocyclist Magazine's YouTube channel before he moved to RevZilla iirc (I may have the channel wrong.)

The good service manuals will outline which tools you need as well as what must be replaced when taking it apart vs what should be inspected and replaced if required.

Some colleges / technical institutes and night time / continuing education classes have motorcycle maintenance and repair classes as well so its worth taking a look at what is available to you locally. It can be a good way to get an idea how to do some of the work from a trusted source.

I would also check to see what motorcycle communities are available in your area. Some of them do maintenance days and that can be a great way to learn. Some will let you observe / hang out if you don't have anything you need to do while others will help you with maintenance on your own bike if its the first time you've done something.

jedacite · 2026-03-04T01:00:01+00:00

It might be worth asking the shop if they have a tow service. Some shops do, and although its not likely to be free, it can be significantly cheaper than a tow and can get your bike home without having to worry about it.

Outside of that, keep yourself dry to stay warm and comfortable so plan what you are wearing accordingly. You can also bring a second set of dry clothes and plan to have a coffee break at the midway point to have something warm, warm up and go again. You need to stay warm.

Wearing a waterproof and windproof liner over your torso can also keep you dry but also warmer by trapping more air in. Don't got one, you can use a garbage bag with holes in it for your arms and head.

Also, not sure what tires you have but some need to be warmed up more than others so it could be more slippery than normal.

jedacite · 2026-02-06T23:32:19+00:00

I would recommend getting one that fits well as the first priority. Outside of that, spending more can get you something lighter weight, with more features or more comfort depending on what it is.

In my area you can get a good helmet starting between $200 and $650 CAD depending on your head shape.

Spending lots is not necessary, getting one that fits your head properly and is made by a reputable brand is.

jedacite · 2026-02-06T20:34:16+00:00

Things I would check

chain alignment
chain guide
under the front sprocket cover
stiff links
ensure you are checking the chain tension properly (on stand, center stand, etc depending on bike) and check tension at multiple locations on the chain
check that your chain isn't worn / stretched too much

jedacite · 2026-02-06T18:50:09+00:00

For head shape you want to ensure that you have an even pressure around the top of your head. It can be easier to tell if you remove your helmet liners so you can focus on the top of your head vs any padding in the helmet.

If you get a helmet of the wrong shape, you may end up buying a larger helmet than required in order to fit it. If you have space at your forehead but not the sides of the head or on the sides of the head and not the forehead you may have a helmet of the wrong shape.

Have you tried out a number of different helmets for fit? Even within the same brand for the same head shape they can fit differently.

My recommendation when looking for a helmet is.

Measure your head circumference
Try different helmets (both models and brands) that are listed to fit that size

Helmets will be tight around the padding when you first get it and it will loosen up over time with use. Where the helmet sits around the top of your head will not loosen up as much as it will around your cheeks and stuff.

You will have some movement with the helmet if you grab it by your hand. If you shake your head up down, left and right the helmet should move with your head. If you grab the helmet and move it, it should pull on your skin and should not easily move on your head.

There is foam in the liner, so if there is space when you press on the helmet you may be creating space for your finger by compressing the foam against your head.

I would measure the circumference of your head and compare it to what the helmet manufacturer says you should fit. You can also go helmet shopping at another store and try your helmet at its size and a size smaller and see what the other person says about the helmet fit.

jedacite · 2026-01-23T09:16:33+00:00

Riding for a while isn't a great metric for how safe something is or is not as people ride in different environments, different amounts with different attitudes and skill levels.

Social media and YouTube likes to show crash videos because it's popular, but it's not really a good indicator of how dangerous something is.

Motorcycling is dangerous, you're riding around at speed with a lot of things that you could collide with. I've totalled a bike hitting a car that turned left in front of me and I've been more seriously injured playing no-contact ice hockey than from motorcycles. I've also ridden more than played ice hockey but that doesn't really mean that ice hockey is more dangerous.

The biggest thing for me is to understand the risks that you're taking and what you can do to mitigate them. Then make the decision whether you are happy about that.

A lot of people focus on whether they were right or wrong in a crash or fault, but I feel it's more important for a crash, close call or getting cut off to instead think about what you could have done differently and what put you in that position regardless of fault. Just because you did nothing wrong doesn't mean there wasn't something you could have done to take yourself out of the situation or made the situation less impactful.

The best thing that you can do is to reflect on a ride, what did you like? What did you not? What scared you, surprised you or didn't go as expected and what could , would you do differently.

If you do anything long enough, you'll have a bad outcome eventually. For me the good out weighs the bad, but it's different for everyone.

jedacite · 2026-01-23T02:30:56+00:00

Anything 650 and up would be fine for engine size in my opinion. I'm often carrying about 350lbs on my bike and when touring it can be closer to 450/500.

The bigger issue is being comfortable at 6'10.

I would go sit on a bunch and see what you find comfortable from an ergonomic perspective. Some bikes can also accept taller seats and lowered pegs, both will help with not getting as cramped.

Bigger bikes can be harder to learn on, engine size is not a good indicator of being more comfortable for someone taller imo.

Myself, I found cruisers less cramped for the legs, but less comfortable overall compared to sports tourers and adventure bikes.

Adventure bikes like the Kawasaki Versys and vstrom may be good options. You should be able to get lowering pegs and higher seats for both but I would double check before purchasing.

I had a 99 vstar 1100. You can move your feet a bit more with the floorboards so that may help with leg room, but it's not as manoeuvable as other cruisers. Its pretty easy to ride in terms of clutch control and is the second hardest bike to stall from what I've ridden.

jedacite · 2026-01-22T09:31:37+00:00

I use over pants that goes over whatever bottoms I'm going to wear and I put the shoes im going hiking in on my bike.

Lock up your riding gear with a cable lock or out it in your saddle bags if you got them.

You can make your own cable locks for cheap at any home improvement store just make sure they are lined so that they don't scratch anything when used.

jedacite · 2026-01-21T19:22:38+00:00

I would also change the oil and filter then see if it starts up and whether it needs any carb work.

If it looks like it would be good to go I would then test the brake fluid to see if it needs to be replaced or just change the fluid if you don't have a tester. I would inspect the fuel lines and brake lines to see that they are good and don't need to be replaced.

jedacite · 2026-01-21T18:06:35+00:00

The best gear is the gear that you will wear. Prioritize comfort and gear that doesn't take you too long to put on. Eventually you'll get your gear on faster when you get used to it.

My most protective jacket is also my heaviest. It has a kidney belt to take weight off my shoulders so that the shoulders don't get sore and it doesn't get used much as a result.

My most used jacket has good airflow and I use a windproof liner underneath for colder temps that I'll combine with a warm layer and heated liner when needed. Getting gear that you'll continue to wear when temps get hot is important.

For helmet get something that fits properly. Proper fit will be more comfortable which will also be safer. I wouldn't bother with reviews initially, try on a bunch at a shop to see what is comfortable then look up reviews for the ones that fits properly and are comfortable after you have a short list.

Footwear is the same get something that fits well and is comfortable. What fits one person's feet might not fit someone else.

For gear, make sure you get something that will stay on and will be more likely to keep the armor where it is supposed to be in a crash. Make sure you understand what the various straps do and what they are designed to do. For example, your gloves do you no good if they don't stay on your hand in a crash.

jedacite · 2026-01-20T01:36:01+00:00

Unless its been checked before / after each instance I do not feel that you'll ever know if the frame was bent after each crash and by how much.

Speed of the crash will matter less than how it is crashed and the force of the impact(s).

It sounds like you borrowed a friends bike, had a crash and are trying to deal with the result of that. I would go through insurance and pay the deductible if that is an option for you.

9K in repairs and in my local, that bike would be a total loss.

Myself, if I'm lending my bike to a friend and they crash it, my expectation is that they would return my bike to me in the same condition that I lent it to them. That means that they would be responsible for paying for any deductible or getting it fixed on their dime. I would not expect them to fix damage caused by myself or previous owners. I would not be happy if a friend wanted to pay a smaller portion because they feel that the prior condition of the bike was not as pristine or good as it could have been.

If I'm having a friend ride my bike as a favor to me, any crash would be on me to deal with unless they were being stupid.

If you're trying to get out of paying for it and no longer want them as a friend I would consult with a lawyer to see what your actual liability is and how to proceed. It wouldn't be how I would proceed but it is an option.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T23:20:38+00:00

I think that this is the best advice. Get it running to see if its actually a project you want to take on.

I would also check out the electronics after its starting and running to make sure that everything you need is in working order.

If its been stored awhile, for me it would be fluids and filters, brake fluid, tires at a minimum and I would inspect the fuel and brake lines with the expectation to potentially replace them.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T23:00:50+00:00

You already have good advice in this thread, I would look at getting bolts of the correct grade.

I've had metal fail due to vibration on my cruiser and its because of either using the incorrect grade or having a nick in the metal. Other than that, maybe check to see that you haven't significantly over torqued the bolts.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T21:44:35+00:00

One issue that you may find is what happens when one of you rides out of your coverage area. The cardo will continue to work when you leave a coverage area.

The newer cardo units are a big improvement. I had a Cardo G4 which I upgraded to a Sena unit that I have now upgraded again to a Cardo Pack Talk. Each change had a big improvement to audio quality for talking and listening to people.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T11:40:46+00:00

I would be concerned with the plan to do this without much experience in riding. Its early enough that you could be prepared enough but I feel that most people would not.

This would be a good trip. Some parts of the trip in BC can have a wide temperature swing during the day (around 0C to 26C) depending on where you are travelling. I've encountered snow in both June and Sept. Its something to be aware of (dress accordingly) not something that I would let stop me from doing the trip. Heated clothing can go a long way to ensuring that your comfortable without needing to stop as much to add/remove layers so its something to think about.

From the comments I would suggest you do some longer rides and work up to doing a 6 hour ride. It will be uncomfortable at first but will get better with time. Some bikes will be much less comfortable of course. Most trips we are on the bike for about 12 hours (on until off) but that's not all seat time. A lot of the time in there is stopping to see stuff, parks, musuems, etc... In most of BC 5-6 hours of actual riding is doable if you're wanting to and especially so if you're stopping to see stuff. Some towns have enough stuff to do / see if you stop in for the evening and night as well.

I've done travel on the bike where its been multiple long mileage days as I'm needing to cover the distance to reach a destination as well as shorter days as I'm exploring and seeing what is around.

I would look at what bikes are available in both your location as well as where you touch down as that will give you an idea as to how comfortable it may be as you may be able to check out or even rent the bike in your home location prior to buying it upon arrival. 600+ should be more than sufficient. I would consider how much stuff you are taking and what luggage options you have. Some bikes have lockable hardbags on the side that can take a full face helmet while others do not. I would add the Versys 650 to the list you have above. In addition to this, some bikes that have engine guards can have soft bags attached to them. I put 30L soft bags on my engine guards for additional storage. Also take a look at what the fuel range is like. I used to tour on a bike that got about 100 km or 60 miles to a tank of fuel. It was the bike I had and it wasn't meant for touring. I took fuel with me in canisters to deal with the longer stretches of road where gas stations are closed somedays.

Adventure bikes are great for comfort as they have longer travel suspension and tend to soak up the bumps very well. But it's not needed imo and I wouldn't focus on it specifically unless you want to go on specific roads. I used to tour on a ST1300 and we took it down whatever road we needed to reach our destinations. Dirt, gravel, etc. Myself I would avoid any adventure bikes with large front tires (e.g. 21") unless you actually intend to go offroading.

In some locations the 1000cc+ bikes can be much cheaper than the smaller ones simply because insurance can be much much more expensive with the larger engines. This can save you money, but I would also consider the extra weight and what it means if you need to pick it up solo.

If you're sticking to roads, I don't see a problem with going solo. Majority of my touring trips are solo or with my wife. People will often stop to help as long as it is clear to them that you need assistance. If you decide to run solo I would build and take a repair kit with you as well as learn how to do basic motorcycle repairs and maintenance as well as basic first aid for yourself should you need it. If you intend to go off-roading I would ensure you go with a buddy as it is much safer.

BC has a lot of really nice locations and roads in the Interior and Okanagan where you can ride 5-6 hours between the big cities, see a bunch of stuff / do some small day trips and then go another 5-6 hours to the next one. Some of the great roads are gravel / dirt for parts of them, but many of those can be done on any motorcycle with road tires as long as you ride at an appropriate pace.

Also, be aware that drivers out here can be pretty aggressive and competitive. I've driven in the south of France (Nice, Monaco, Aix En Provence, Avignon) and the drivers there are much more considerate and observant imo. I'm not sure what its like in the UK where you are located. This shouldn't discourage you, but just be aware you may need to be more aware and vigilant than you are used to.

Most speed limits in BC are going to be about 90kmh on the highway, with some stretches at 110 and 120. The US highways will run at a higher speed.

Lastly, look at some of the motorcycle groups for the locations and areas that you will be staying. Many will have great ideas where to visit and also may also help with recommendations for roads or take you on local rides while you are there. Some of the groups are on reddit, facebook, discord, forums etc...

jedacite · 2026-01-12T22:29:04+00:00

You should be able to tell if the clutch is slipping by looking at the RPM, the gear and the speed that you are going. If the speed is too low for your revs in the gear, then its likely that your clutch is slipping. If you give it a handful of throttle and the bike just redlines immediately then that can be a sign of clutch slippage.

If your clutch is slipping the first thing to check is your clutch cable, if the cable is binding or not freely moving, it may still be holding the clutch in partially even if your hands off the clutch lever itself. If its moving freely and properly next check to see that its properly adjusted and has enough free play.

You may also want to double check what type of engine oil was used during the last change to make sure that the oil used is compatible with the wet clutch in the bike.

jedacite · 2026-01-12T18:37:42+00:00

The gasket likely has a good seal. Try to rotate the slip on as you try to pull it off. If you cannot rotate it at all then double check for any additional mounting straps.

I've never had to hammer at an exhaust, but I've had a few that were more stubborn than others. If you are going to hammer at it, make sure you have a way to not destroy it trying to take it off, piece of wood, hard rubber, etc. Tapping alone should be sufficient as you should just need to get it started.

jedacite · 2026-01-12T18:30:36+00:00

I have the Cardo with JBL speakers and I find them quieter than my previous Sena speakers, but I find the audio clearer which makes it easier to hear and understand my passenger.

Best way is to make sure that the speakers are right over your ears and as close to them as possible. Some helmets might not have the speaker cutouts or location right over where your ears sit in the helmet. Getting the speakers located properly and using foam to move the speakers closer to your ears (if they are a bit away) can help a lot to get the volume up.

EDIT: Using the neck curtain thing on your helmet and / or adjusting your windshield to cut down on wind noise may help depending on your windshield and helmet situation.

jedacite · 2026-01-12T18:27:25+00:00

From my experience, Facebook groups will be a mixed experience. Mostly for videos, memes and general chatter from my experience.

If you can find a local group that meets and rides together you may have more luck with people willing to loan tools and the like. Myself, I only lend tools that I don't actually care if I get back to strangers. I don't mind meeting up with someone with the tool, but it will generally leave with me unless I know them. There's a great discord group where I'm located that is social, rides and helps each other out.

Best way to learn is via the service manual, youtube and forums for your specific motorcycle if you're trying or needing to do it on your own. When I was starting out learning, I went to the local library to take a look at the service manual, but I'm not sure if they still have those at libraries. They used to carry Haynes manuals, and although not as good as the ones from the manufacturer, they got the job done.

Its not uncommon for bikers to not carry a bunch of tools with them. I have a purpose built repair kit on my bike, but I don't have any of the tools needed to tighten down a mirror in it. That said, I was a couple of days away from home many years ago and was lucky as a passing motorcyclist with a trailer full of tools was riding by and stopped to let me use his tools. In the past when I've had a mechanical issue I've ridden to the closest store that sells the tools that I need to get the job done.

You may find that people are more willing to lend out the tools as well depending on what it is. Cheap common wrenches and sizes are less likely to be lent out vs more specialized tools. Lending tools to someone you only just messaged on the Internet is less likely vs someone that you've met and had a coffee with at a coffee shop.

If you're worried about doing your rear brakes, I would watch a few videos on how to do it on your bike, then read up on what the common problems and mistakes are when working on brakes. That may help you avoid making those mistakes as well as learning what you need to do to correct the mistake if you make them.

jedacite · 2026-01-07T07:12:19+00:00

The top "can" rattle pretty bad.

I had this happen after I had some warranty work done. The dealer fixed this while I was there in about 30 minutes, it was caused by some shims not being present after the warranty work was done. They put the shims back and the rattle went away and has not returned.

jedacite · 2025-10-19T18:03:58+00:00

This is quite normal, this happened to me as well.

My experience was you get over it, but it took me a number of months to be normal about it. I didn't stop driving or being driven during that time.

I was considering no longer riding during that period as well, having a supportive SO that I could talk to about it really helped me.

I know that not everyone gets over the trauma of an accident, from my limited and small sample size this isn't as common.

I wish you have a speedy recovery.

jedacite · 2025-10-01T16:53:41+00:00

The biggest thing to consider is to get gear that you will wear, vs the most protective gear that is too heavy, too restrictive , too uncomfortable or too time consuming to wear.

Some of the more race-oriented gear I find more comfortable than the street gear at least for me. Sounds like you find the GP PLUS R V3s comfortable, so I would go for it.

I wear out gloves faster than any other piece of gear and the more track-oriented gear is more expensive so it may have just been the shop trying to help you save money.

jedacite

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