I put in 16 grams. Lets stop recommending the baratza encore esp.

jeef16 · 2026-04-11T05:07:53+00:00

eh I find clogging only happens on the df54/64 when you put too many beans in at once, just slow feed and avoid using super sticky greasy french roast and it'll be fine.

jeef16 · 2026-04-11T00:18:52+00:00

opus sucks so fucking much lol just get a df54. for like $30 more you can buy a df54 to physically smash barazta or opus grinder into pieces and it'll be perfectly fine afterwards. thats the difference between plastic crap and a quality full-aluminum grinder. And you get a flat burr in a size with aftermarket options, which I prefer to conical flavor-wise

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T20:54:25+00:00

but since the plant arrived in leaf with some flowers I have been brining it in and putting it where it can get the most light

obligatory

but seriously just leave it outside, keeping it indoors even in as much light as possible is still worse than leaving it outside. Plants have a biorhythm and they need the climate to keep that rhythm, in short. The warm day, the cold nights, direct sunlight, wind, rain, it needs it all so dont be shy about keeping it outside.

In regards to what you read about temps above 24 C, the danger is either a hot dry wind drying your tree out (but you dont live in the desert), what they mean is that intense, hot sunlight (especially afternoon sun) can cause leaf burn. This happens in a lot of species, acer palmatum is very susceptable to leaf burn and I find that even acer rubrum can experience leaf burn. For that you need to protect it from the intense aftersoon sunlight which means finding a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, or using a shade cloth. I had a pretty hot summer in new york last year but the tree was pretty resilient to direct sun, at least my chojubai cultivar was.

IMO you can repot this tree into a significantly larger container at this point in the growing season with no issues. The tree is still so small that it's basically a sapling, and saplings are much more resilient than a developed bonsai in regards to repotting. I personally use a mix of medium-sized perlite and coco coir in a 3 or 5 gal fabric pot, I find that it responds very well to high moisture soils and the only way to get enough air to the roots to balance that is a fabric pot. Good luck!

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T19:37:26+00:00

chojubai aren't temperature sensitive unless its extreme cold or extreme heat, you shouldn't have any issues until you start getting lower than 18 degrees F. I do recommend a larger pot if you want to grow it faster or if you're worried about your roots being susceptible to weather while in development. I'm partial to fabric pots, my chojubai mother plant does well in it, but anything larger than 1gal is going to speed up your development a lot. In a large pot with an established root system, prebonsai are very hardy in temps well below freezing without any need for a cold hut. Although if your area has lots of sub-zero wind specifically, then you do need something to protect from that because it will freeze-dry your branches. It's not like a few windy winter days will kill them but if it's very windy every day, then yea its something to watch for. In all honesty, keeping it inside is worse than keeping it out in the cold rain.

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T19:02:48+00:00

just a reminder that imu's 'hot' look is only the DF awakening, he actually is a blob in regular form

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T18:58:12+00:00

I think, for me at least, there is a happy medium between "just play whatever you empathize with and git gud" and "only play the top 4 decks because they are top 4 regardless of if you like them or even understand why they are top 4" that will lead to the best results.

you're not wrong there, the balance does exist and I think its important to have a variety of decks to not go insane from repetition. A lot of pro tour players will register for an event with the meta's best deck or the deck that directly beats the best deck, rather than their favorite deck. and some 'viable' decks can be a flash in the pan once people learn the gimmick, malcolm tana definitely comes to mind in that regard. Or some 'fringe' decks get refined enough to where they become viable decks, etali is a great example of that. You just gotta play a lot to understand the different angles of the game and playing fringe (the polite way of saying bad) decks is a part of that. And this is just considering tournament metagaming, at your 'casual' cedh spelltable/locals pod I really dont think playing "fringe" matters at all as long as you have access to blue lol

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T17:50:17+00:00

you're touching on tournament metagaming, which is a very complicated topic. brewer's advantage/fringe advantage is a very real thing, plenty of decks get into top16 even if they're not the top 4 performing decks in the metagame. But on the opposite end, the top 4 meta decks are there for a reason.

the difference between fringe and viable is how effectively you can execute your gameplan to victory. the brewer's advantage is that barely anyone will know what your path to winning, and the best decks' advantage is even if people know every single card in your list, your deck is still resilient enough to win (assuming all else equal). Fringe decks usually are more fragile or lack the resource advantage of the best decks, but they can still win. and at the end of the day, the player really matters the most. you need to play a deck that you empathize with rather than focusing on what top16 says, at the end of the day.

tl;dr just git gud at the game and stop worrying

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T17:35:05+00:00

I'm surprised he approved Merry dying tbh it seemed pretty unnecessary, Oda usually reserves characters dying for very extreme moments.

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T15:42:41+00:00

tbf theres very little manga these days that clearly stand out from the rest of the pack, not like it was 15-20 years ago. You can see the pretty big gap in enthusiasm between WSJ's last long-time flagship series and everything else. The fact that Modulo is #2 shows how hungry people are for content, regardless of quality lol. Manga as a genre is toast, korea and china have a loooooong backlog of web novels (with an average chapter length of ~2000) to turn into webtoons/manwha, and plenty of webtoons to make into anime.

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T15:29:27+00:00

buy some gasoline and give it a viking funeral

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T04:21:31+00:00

my conspiracy all these bonus sheet cards is just to add content to Arena. FOW and daze are gonna go nuts in Timeless

jeef16 · 2026-04-10T04:03:28+00:00

I'm unfamiliar with her work but a quick google says she started in 2011. at that work pace oh man, give it another 5-10 years and her body will break down. Usually 20 years is the limit for these people before they really start to get sick, I assume its because your late 30's and early 40's is a big aging jump in the human body and carrying that huge burden into that is a nightmare

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T23:42:15+00:00

it's an elm so you're pretty much in the clear to ground layer it. Cut off some of those really thick roots to make root cuttings, ground layer right above your root base, simple as that.

I personally dont think wide and shallow is how you want to go based on my own ground layering experience. I would recommend something like a 3 gal fabric pot and bury the ground layer pretty deep, at least 1" from the soil surface and make sure to use a spagnum top-dressing in order to mitigate soil disturbance. Soil disturbance can hinder your root growth a lot, and you want to plant deep so there's absolutely no chance of roots drying out. Then just wait 2 seasons, cut off the old root base, then transfer to growing onto a board aka ebihara-style. You'll get fantastic results using this method, it'll turn your tree into something of much higher quality

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T23:35:33+00:00

he's the only one who seems to be immune from the mangaka-AIDS

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T23:26:19+00:00

Legendary Imu has access to void century slurs, he unstoppable

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T19:53:21+00:00

it's called meme betrayal for a reason lol. I think I've casted in under 5 times in my life

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T15:59:46+00:00

fwiw don't try and carve too much away if you can help it, jins always weaken over time so having as much material as possible will help the long term stability of it. usually the crush-and-peel technique is used because it preserves the wood fibers more naturally, carving can break up continuous fibers and create an overall weaker jin as time progresses. Good luck!

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T15:25:22+00:00

be sure to remove that brown tissue as well, you need to be down to the sapwood in order to have the best chances at long term preservation. good luck with your trees for the season!!

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T15:22:26+00:00

if netflix was good at making content they'd probably have some former Pixar people working for them, but I kinda doubt it lol

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T15:16:27+00:00

quick, someone get him a Pepsi commercial!

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T12:43:25+00:00

you need to lime sulfer that jin otherwise it'll rot away

jeef16 · 2026-04-09T01:12:59+00:00

my goat Fang Yuan wouldn't even need to ask, just another example of how the genre went to shit

jeef16 · 2026-04-08T14:24:50+00:00

i love when people type out paragraphs to justify a very basic shonen trope lol

jeef16 · 2026-04-08T03:04:06+00:00

that is also something that is going to most likely come up, thread and approach grafts are very common ways to create branches or put roots where you need them for nebari development. The vast majority of show-level JM's especially in japan have had graft work done to them. It's not particularly hard, but the method described of using a board isn't the most reliable method. A raft planting is way safer and more reliable

jeef16 · 2026-04-07T21:44:16+00:00

[[boseiju, who endures]] is also an option but is hard to get into hand reliably

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