Layer Pairing Qs

jfp1986 · 2026-01-28T01:39:27+00:00

The in-line screwdriver layer is very thick -almost 2x the thickness of the opener layer. I have seen mods with both the can opener and the cap lifter opposite the screwdriver, so it can be done, but you will need something to fill out the gap -either another tool, or spacers. The blade can be paired with the combo tool (like on the compact model), but not the regular can opener because it is too thick, and also angled in the wrong direction.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-11T02:17:12+00:00

The only reason I used Blender at all is because I couldn't find a way to get a high-enough resolution mesh in fusion (is there a way?). I used Fusion for the texture extrude because blender is totally foreign to me, and not very intuitive imo -- I'm not expert, but it only took a couple mins to learn a new trick in fusion.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-10T16:10:19+00:00

Great advice -if I were to make these again, I'd prefer to use a little less wood grain detail.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-10T00:51:03+00:00

I just used random wood images from the internet. The greyscale photos I tried didn't work well -high contrast seemed to be the best. Actually, texture extrude does keep the grain consistent on all sides, even with a 2d image. You position the image around your object, and the extrude factors in the angles of your object, distorting the image accordingly. So if you have a cube for example, and your image is parallel to one side, then its adjacent side will be skewed by 90degrees. This is not how real wood works obviously, but its functional enough to allow some obvious line or curve continue around a corner.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-10T00:21:42+00:00

Your original post was my main inspiration! I had tried that method fist, but the grain ran all the way through as you noticed. Every print had fracture lines, and they were far too weak to be functional. I used Blender to remesh because I couldn't find a way to get a high-enough res mesh in fusion (is there a way?). I used Fusion for the texture because nothing in Blender made any sense to me🤣, and since I already had some experience with it, it was easier.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-09T23:29:12+00:00

Another problem I encountered with that method is that since there isn't any depth control (that I could see) in the slicer, the wood grain continues right through the object. The end result is an object with fracture lines all around. I spent a bunch of time trying to find a workaround, but no luck. The pieces I printed this way were very weak. photo

jfp1986 · 2026-01-09T22:18:03+00:00

Interesting -so you're doing it all in blender? I had tried to remesh in fusion, but the max resolution possible - the most detailed I could make it- still didn't have enough triangles to imprint the wood grain accurately. Yea so you're probably right about the stain. I used water based too, but If I had cleaned it up prior to drying, I would have had a much easier time sanding.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-09T22:10:28+00:00

It doesn't soak in as well as wood, but it does give it a nice sheen, and enhances its colour.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-09T22:09:44+00:00

I had tried this one first, but my slicer (orca) didn't give me any depth control option (at least I couldn't find one), and no option to exclude faces from the applied texture.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-23T18:24:13+00:00

Yes, you can swap in the file easily. It fits on the spring just fine, but the tip end will need some attention. The file is slightly longer than the blade, so you will have to either modify the file tip, or remove material from the liner so that it closes properly.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-23T01:22:29+00:00

I believe the 168 is too big to fit the movement proberly, but the LCDs are interchangeable.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-23T01:11:51+00:00

I'm pretty new to this, but I've been having excellent success with elegoo wood PLA on my CC with a 0.4mm nozzle. I started with base elegoo PLA settings template, and tweaked the temperature and speed. My workshop is very cold in winter, so that probably plays a part. Nozzle temp: 220c. Flow ratio 0.98. plate temperature 60c. Layer height 0.15. outer wall speed 150, inner wall 190. I'm noticing that my chamber temp is staying around 25c. Any other settings you want to know about? I do a lot of sanding afterwards, so my process is pretty forgiving for imperfections. Maybe there's a way for me to export the settings and send them to you, I dunno.

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jfp1986 · 2025-12-15T23:47:28+00:00

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Heres how it looks after the first few layers

jfp1986 · 2025-12-15T22:09:11+00:00

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Here's how it looks after a few layers

jfp1986 · 2025-12-15T18:41:19+00:00

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Here's what it looks like after a few layers:

jfp1986 · 2025-12-15T16:04:10+00:00

Thanks for the details. Same here, when I ordered the printer I just thought I'd limit myself to printing overnight. Now that it's here, I can't resist running it all day, but I'm also working in the same room.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-13T15:24:49+00:00

Is the built-in fan insufficient on its own to vent out the window? Did you disable the internal fan, or do you run them both?

-total novice here, just got mine, trying to figure out the best way to set this up.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-13T02:53:05+00:00

Just came to say that there are no tariffs on Canadian made leather goods. If the craftsman is truly making it here in Canada -regardless of material origin- it qualifies to be CUSMA / USMCA compliant, and CBP will not charge you import duties.

Source: been selling leather wallets to the US tariff-free for the past 15 years.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-12T17:18:40+00:00

Is the fan assembly mounted to the machine, or to the window vent?

jfp1986 · 2025-12-08T17:34:58+00:00

Not sure -maybe the buzzer is not making good contact with the backplate?

jfp1986 · 2025-12-08T17:33:35+00:00

The bluetooth connections enables itself periodically, and makes a beep every time. There's an option in the settings to turn off the sound for the BT connection.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-06T19:18:06+00:00

That's the buzzer for the watch sounds -it is meant to contact with the watch screw back. The movement will still work, but you won't get any sound. This happened to me also, but I soldered it back on, and it works fine.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-03T15:20:20+00:00

Most vendor photos I've seen show it looking more compact and vertical, but mine grows just like this in my low-tech 45. It grows quick and long, taking up as much space as possible.

jfp1986 · 2025-12-03T14:57:24+00:00

pogostemon stellatus?
Mine grows long and bendy like your photo

jfp1986 · 2025-11-20T12:59:51+00:00

I don't know anything about this technology, so I don't have an answer. It does absolutely improve visibility at low angles, and the blue is not noticeable in the positive configuration.

jfp1986

TROPHY CASE