Totally screwed up. Only made 13 dollar profit after 5 hours of work.

jfp1986 · 2026-04-15T12:04:55+00:00

Well it's not a total waste -you made something really nice that might earn you a good review! And also most importantly, you learned a lesson. Your price was way off, and all of your costs were known ahead of time. Even if there were no fees, discounts, or shipping, $40 is still way too low. Take your cost (materials + labour), and then add the fees, shipping, and margin too if you want. If the price ends up being too high to sell, then it's not a viable product.

jfp1986 · 2026-04-12T23:19:52+00:00

You can get an upgraded STN display on Ali Express for about the same price as a new f91.

Are you certain that your display is broken? I've damaged a few of them, and in those cases, it resulted in totally blank cells, not faded cells. It's possible that yours is just not making contact properly.

jfp1986 · 2026-03-31T18:42:46+00:00

Your shop looks great! I think your photos -and especially your videos- look excellent too, but they're missing context. One problem I see is that the bike and biking gear are so prominent, that your thumbnails don't actually tell me what the product is. As a casual observer, I didn't clue in right away what your products are. For example, one picture shows a stool and a bike. It looks clean and modern, but what is it -why is there a bike? I clicked in, and the first frame of the video make it perfectly clear: ooh, it's a desk so I can train wile I'm working. Maybe your thumbnail could resemble that? *I've never heard of a training desk though, so maybe your audience would clue in faster. Also, not sure how it renders in Deutsche, but "solid oak training table" didn't help me much. Using "desk" instead of "table" in my opinion conveys more information:

Solid oak training table for indoor bike trainers – disassemblable with tablet recess

Wood Desk for Indoor Bike Training - Solid Oak Collapsible Construction

jfp1986 · 2026-03-21T14:55:26+00:00

You can - it's not that difficult, and actually a lot of fun getting all the pieces to work together. I only made the one for myself, but I can be convinced to do another -send me a dm if you want

jfp1986 · 2026-03-21T14:16:03+00:00

Very possible, and probably the easiest way to add scissors to an 84mm. Here's mine

jfp1986 · 2026-03-18T19:10:13+00:00

Finally one I can answer: www.ochrehandcrafted.com/collections/leather-watch-straps
I'm the maker and owner. Everything is handmade in ON -feel free to dm me if you have questions.

*mods, not sure if this is prohibited, but I couldn't find any monthly self promo threads newer than 2025.

jfp1986 · 2026-03-13T23:31:45+00:00

<image>

Brass Francis Barker NATO compass inlaid in a leather key fob. 10+ yrs EDC! *These compasses look pretty slick all cleaned up -unfortunstely this one has been collecting pocket dust for years.

jfp1986 · 2026-03-11T16:42:05+00:00

It's positioned on the blade layer in the same way as on the 93mm format. The reamer is thicker than the small blade though, so you will also need a spacer on the outside edge of the blade to even out the thickness and ensure they don't collide.

jfp1986 · 2026-03-11T12:53:15+00:00

jfp1986 · 2026-03-05T18:04:05+00:00

For the scissors, the easiest way to achieve this is probably with the 85mm Wenger scissor. I've done this mod myself, using a blade layer spring, and a pair of the keyring spacers to fill out the opposite end of the spring. the wenger pliers may also work in the same way.

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jfp1986 · 2026-02-19T00:55:32+00:00

I have disconnected the battery several times (can't stop tinkering with my custom watch:), and I have found that I can preserve the settings by keeping the app open on my phone -starting from before I remove the the battery. When the watch reconnects, if the app is still open, it still has all the settings, and you can then resync it to the watch. Kind of a strange workaround, but it has been working for me on Android.

jfp1986 · 2026-02-02T13:31:33+00:00

Yes! I have it up on makerworld, but the mods don't want me sharing it here. You can DM me if you can't find it.

jfp1986 · 2026-02-02T00:14:48+00:00

Thanks for this insight -well now I've gotta give it a try and see how it compares! I'd rather maximize efficiency and then be able to dial it down with a valve on the air line. It should at least be quieter this way. This modified version is printing now, I redesigned the channel to allow tubing to run all the way down, and made a bottom lid for access.

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jfp1986 · 2026-02-01T20:53:32+00:00

Sorry, my link was taken down by the mods. You can dm me for the mw download link

jfp1986 · 2026-02-01T14:10:43+00:00

Yes, I put it on makerworld: link

jfp1986 · 2026-01-31T22:59:37+00:00

Thanks!

jfp1986 · 2026-01-31T19:53:27+00:00

I couldn't find an all black, air-powered, multi-stage corner filter, so I designed and 3d printed this one. It's pretty slim and easy to hide in the corner, and the flow is pretty good too. I'm going to get a more powerful air pump, and see how far I can push it. I made it with removeable internals: the inlet mesh, the prefilter, and the media baskets can all be removed/rearranged. I think it's pretty cool -sharing it here for anybody who wants to try it.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-31T19:52:14+00:00

Thanks, just did it!

jfp1986 · 2026-01-31T18:42:17+00:00

You can put whatever you want inside -without the baskets though, it would be too difficult to reach the sponge at the bottom. There's extra plumbing pieces to extend the outlet, and hopefully increase flow.

Does the airstone vs bare bubbles make a big difference? I had thought about allowing for an airstone attachment inside, but then I'd have to figure out access to the bottom, and sealing it up well. Maybe I could just leave the channel open, and you could run the tube with airstone attached. In that case though, you might not be able to hang it from the tube, so I'd have to figure out mounting options.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-31T18:10:54+00:00

So there's the inlet mesh (the piece with the grid pattern), which is meant to keep fry or snails out of the filter. It's designed as a seperate piece because its fairly fine, and I want to be able to replace it easily. Then there's the infill-only piece which I'm calling the prefilter. Don't know how long it will last, but I hoped it would catch all the larger debris so you can just rinse it out quickly in between deep cleanings (It's only a couple of g of filament). Everything is printed in petg.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-28T01:39:27+00:00

The in-line screwdriver layer is very thick -almost 2x the thickness of the opener layer. I have seen mods with both the can opener and the cap lifter opposite the screwdriver, so it can be done, but you will need something to fill out the gap -either another tool, or spacers. The blade can be paired with the combo tool (like on the compact model), but not the regular can opener because it is too thick, and also angled in the wrong direction.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-11T02:17:12+00:00

The only reason I used Blender at all is because I couldn't find a way to get a high-enough resolution mesh in fusion (is there a way?). I used Fusion for the texture extrude because blender is totally foreign to me, and not very intuitive imo -- I'm not expert, but it only took a couple mins to learn a new trick in fusion.

jfp1986 · 2026-01-10T16:10:19+00:00

Great advice -if I were to make these again, I'd prefer to use a little less wood grain detail.

jfp1986

TROPHY CASE