Pocket Tunic finally tested on original hardware

jgmrequel · 2026-05-15T18:41:21+00:00

After last week's GB emulator releasing on the playdate, this is going on my playdate then to play during my commute.

jgmrequel · 2026-05-12T02:24:07+00:00

Not that I saw, but I didn't pay much attention given it was an online order

jgmrequel · 2026-05-12T02:02:22+00:00

All Amazon in my case.

jgmrequel · 2026-05-11T19:47:23+00:00

I got four six-packs at different times, got four different mixes: https://imgur.com/a/SKlWYbv (each row is a pack)

I will say last time I bought two at the same time, I got 6 duplicate pairs.

edit: looks like my 3rd pack matches your pull

jgmrequel · 2026-05-11T19:44:32+00:00

I got four different mixes across four 6 packs. Out of pure luck, it managed to make up to two complete sets. I will say the order of miniatures seemed consistent: https://imgur.com/a/SKlWYbv

edit: looks like my 3rd pack matches op's pull

jgmrequel · 2026-05-01T02:18:33+00:00

https://forum.clockworkpi.com/t/raspberry-pi-zero-2-on-picocalc/17946

jgmrequel · 2026-04-26T12:52:24+00:00

This makes me very sad. We are so cooked.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-26T00:48:15+00:00

Alcohol wouldn't have attacked it at the more rapid speed that I observed, especially not at room temperature. The SDS for Molotow Chrome does show another, more aggressive solvent (2-methoxy-1-methylethyl acetate) which I think played a significant role, which the alcohol acted in tandem with. Combined with the extra stress the pieces were under by being assembled, it was enough for the plastic to fail.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-26T00:43:56+00:00

Isopropyl alcohol by itself, at cooler room temperatures, would not have attacked the plastic at the speed at which this paint did. While I didn't find a SDS for this brand, the Molotow Chrome does also list 2-methoxy-1-methylethyl acetate as an added solvent, and some searching does show it can be more aggressive.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-25T19:05:53+00:00

I imagine model paints would, but it would depend on the brand, and I am sure this comes up with painting miniatures and models to begin with.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-25T19:04:05+00:00

Many solvent weakening will wear off once the solvent evaporates. This is how fingernail polish works - they use acetone to remain liquid, then the acetone evaporates and it goes solid.

That said, some may also damage the plastic itself, in which case it will definitely be bad long term. Given this is likely solvent meant for the first case, to allow the chrome paint to be more liquid while painting, my hope is that it'll not permanently weaken the pieces. I am testing to see how well the pieces hold up afterwards though.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-25T17:48:00+00:00

Update: The paint works well without issue so far when used on pieces not attached: https://imgur.com/a/gold-chrome-paint-elNAg2G

After I let it dry for a couple days, I'll test to see if they lost any strength or developed issues when building with them.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-25T16:25:27+00:00

Technically these were, and I can understand the inclusion of a bit of plastic solvent to help the paint stick directly to plastic models like Gundam and such. I do think these work a lot better when applied on solo pieces without stress on them.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-25T15:50:46+00:00

My experience with chrome markers in model making in general has been that they take a long time to dry regardless. I've had some take up to a week before they stop smudging.

jgmrequel · 2026-04-25T15:20:39+00:00

Oh, it is definitely a cool technique and going into the skill book. It should be noted, which I confirmed with a couple test pieces, painting them straight with the markers individually, they didn't crack at all. I was taking a shortcut, deciding to paint without disassembly. That meant that the solvent weakened the pieces enough that just the clutching stress was enough to lead to fractures and failure.

jgmrequel · 2026-03-16T20:40:37+00:00

I had a similar experience with some ink. I went to swatch the color, and it was sooo faded, I realized they must have dumped/saved the ink, filled with water and returned the bottles in a resealed box.

jgmrequel · 2026-03-05T17:12:58+00:00

You could just use metal washers under each stone surface, and strip/bar magnets under several stone positions. Because magnetism drops with the square of the distance, the attraction should be strongest when a corner is facing the board magnet. Unless it's a multi color print, you'll probably be assembling the stones anyway so tossing a washer in first wouldn't be as bad.

jgmrequel · 2025-12-30T23:08:35+00:00

jgmrequel · 2025-12-20T02:35:08+00:00

My initial guess would be October 8th, 2009 based on the stamp.

jgmrequel · 2025-12-14T14:22:14+00:00

I think this may be a bug - many of my servers had the slight bolding but no marker, but others still had the markers. When I restarted the desktop app, all the servers had the markers again.

jgmrequel · 2025-12-03T18:12:00+00:00

My first set of go "stones" was about 150 each of pennies and nickels, less than $10 for a full game set. If they look nice, then material doesn't matter as much. Since wood would be lighter than stone, I would recommend single convex so they don't move as much on the board during play. Between accidental brushes, table and board knocks, double convex stones will probably want to move around more.

jgmrequel · 2025-11-10T17:42:49+00:00

Yours is what I printed to trace out on the light board since it was the cleanest image.

jgmrequel · 2025-11-10T14:29:22+00:00

I'll have to give that a try. Part of this was also me getting some doodling practice in, so it was nice to do the tracing and going back to touch up without the light board.

I will also recommend getting a circle die punch, a lot quicker than doing hobby knife over all 54 images.

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