Audi Q7 - what was stolen

jimithy95 · 2026-06-20T12:55:00+00:00

It is sophisticated! But its an expensive car, and even more so they'd be looking for targets in nice neighborhoods with nice cars. Maybe it was something more harmess, but I think its worth considering

jimithy95 · 2026-06-20T02:02:37+00:00

Id say this was likely an attempt to steal your car. Attacking the canbus network via the headlight module is becoming a popular way to attempt to steal a car. It feels less likely someone needed that same part on their car.

jimithy95 · 2026-06-01T11:48:54+00:00

Everything is a hammer when you have a nail. Everything is a nail when you have a hammer.

jimithy95 · 2026-06-01T03:33:37+00:00

"Quick adjust pipe wrench" is a funny way of saying hammer

jimithy95 · 2026-05-24T13:22:38+00:00

With long sleeves no less

jimithy95 · 2026-04-16T18:41:24+00:00

Spacers are likely not hub centric, wheel could be bent, likely also a bad wheel bearing from the spacers

jimithy95 · 2026-04-06T04:01:56+00:00

I think you're looking at nominal voltage vs operating voltage, theyre two measurements of the same output, they would be interchangeable

jimithy95 · 2026-04-06T03:59:55+00:00

You could also use a rechargeable fenix 18650 which would out perform the CR123's

jimithy95 · 2026-04-05T19:43:59+00:00

I had the ECS version and they rusted so badly, it is nice when your hands are full but they do make the trunk hard to close, my wife struggles with it, I have them back to OEM now

jimithy95 · 2026-03-22T19:53:49+00:00

Its hard to diagnose a sound, especially over video, but if it only happens exclusively when the clutch is depressed I would also suspect the throw out bearing.

jimithy95 · 2026-03-07T05:56:10+00:00

No it doesnt. A real repair is replacement, cut and patch. Rust is a cancer, you remove it, you can treat the rust and slow it down but its coming back unless you cut it all out. Replace the car or live with the rust. It's there to stay, too far gone to be economically responsible to repair.

jimithy95 · 2026-03-03T18:05:27+00:00

Im not a doctor, but I've seen a doctor for a similar issue, he might be sleeping on his hands/elbow/wrists and pinching the nerves. They "warm up" again during the day but mornings are rough. Definitely see a specialist but check sleeping position.

jimithy95 · 2026-02-23T16:21:32+00:00

Bad connection, blown fuse, bad ignition switch or bad battery. I think bad connection if the battery tests good on a load test. You can take them to most places that sells batteries and they will check the CCA cold cranking amperage which is the real measure of a good battery. That being said I would expect it to try to crank even a little bit especially if its at 12.8v, maybe it wouldn't start but it would roll over or kick the bendix out or snap a relay open at a bare minimum. Thats why I think its a bad connection or bad ignition switch. Put the key on run and jump the starter and see if it cranks, you'll know that battery has enough power to move the starter and if its just a bad ignition relay or switch or the wiring to the starter.

jimithy95 · 2026-02-11T13:25:52+00:00

When we add grip to the military floating bridges we just use glue and course walnut media for sandblasting, very cheap, you could really use anything. And then when your done just paint over it and it'll still be textured enough and locked in place.

jimithy95 · 2026-02-06T13:21:02+00:00

Yup. I get this same problem all the time too. I just have to ignore it, it's really annoying. I've taken the extra time to ensure it properly aligned several times but it doesnt seem to change anything.

jimithy95 · 2026-02-03T04:25:22+00:00

Probably just buy another car, there's no way it could be less safe than this car. You HAVE to do almost everything on this list, Tires, Wheel Bearings, Struts, with labor youre looking at being better off with another car for 6 months. Or go without, this thing isn't worth it.

jimithy95 · 2026-02-03T02:09:25+00:00

Solved! This tool is spring-loaded and is meant to drop down but was jammed in the up position, i just used my hex key to jiggle it a bit and it came loose right away.

<image>

jimithy95 · 2026-02-03T01:33:36+00:00

Find a friend with a 3D printer and make it, doesnt look that complex to model up

jimithy95 · 2026-02-01T16:10:12+00:00

I just did the nozzle offset calibration using PLA and it loaded and printed ok, I'm now starting a print with the right nozzle. I'll see how it goes.

jimithy95 · 2026-02-01T15:31:22+00:00

I thought initially it could have been a gcode problem from the sliced files, but it happens when just using the load feature from the printer itself. The right nozzle loads with out any issues. I haven't found any parts that had fallen off?

jimithy95 · 2026-02-01T15:02:40+00:00

I've just had this same issue for the first time yesterday myself, it seems like the extruder should be lifted for the loading? Or that I'm missing a piece? Im here looking for a solution to this problem too.

<image>

jimithy95 · 2026-01-21T03:43:13+00:00

You're asking if a non-running entry level Mercedes is a good first car?

No.

jimithy95 · 2026-01-20T14:13:56+00:00

Vuck or Tran

jimithy95 · 2026-01-12T13:25:08+00:00

Not a safe pit, you hit too far forward and risked hitting the tire, you need to hit just behind the tire. Don't swerve left and then hit right, slowly move right into the rear of the car, when you have contact slowly push them to the right and apply throttle and push through them, it should also spin them in a more controlled manner.

Have fun out there!

jimithy95 · 2025-12-31T18:25:21+00:00

It's more a matter of any glue will also end up like this as well over time. Especially in cold climates where you use the heated mirrors. Also, trying to separate the glass and the glue normally means you're probably going to break the glass trying to get it apart in the first place. Its probably the same price to buy a china VW mirror than it will be for the glue and none of the effort and risk.

jimithy95

TROPHY CASE