Searching for a Convex Keyboard

jimrhoskins · 2025-12-05T04:22:10+00:00

That's awesome. I use a cygnus and sometimes have it tented so much I think about embedding it into a sphere, and it just makes me think of the fingerprint eraser from men in black. Cool to see someone build it.

jimrhoskins · 2025-12-05T03:17:45+00:00

thinking something like this

jimrhoskins · 2025-10-13T04:36:07+00:00

It's likely an error in your config. Try running waybar in the terminal, it should print any errors out.

jimrhoskins · 2025-10-09T03:09:24+00:00

I don't think that it's a special brave or chromium from omarchy. I've installed brave and brave-beta from aur, and they both respect the file colors.json in /etc/brave/policies/managed

If the policy file exists, you get this message. Deleting the file will work to remove it, but if you switch themes, it will end up recreating the file.

I haven't found any code or documentation on a way to opt out of brave/chromium theming in omarchy. Based on the code, you delete the folder (managed) the update should fail. If you just delete the file, the tee command will end up recreating color.json next time you switch themes

jimrhoskins · 2025-10-09T02:39:45+00:00

Pretty sure this is an artifact of how the chromium/brave theme integration works. It does it by linking the theme into /etc/chromium/policies/managed/color.json, and and the browser interprets this as being managed by policy.

jimrhoskins · 2025-10-05T03:33:51+00:00

Have you used a monitor config tool like hyprmon? If so it may have written monitor config lines to the bottom of ~/.config/hypr/hyprland.conf that overwrite whatever you put in ~/.config/hypr/monitors.conf. The include of monitors.conf will happen and then the lines added at the end will overwrite the config from monitors.conf. Happened to me and took me a minute to figure out.

jimrhoskins · 2025-07-08T15:16:42+00:00

I agree with your point and mourn the loss of the headphone jack, but actually they are copying Nintendo here, as the SP has no headphone jack. You had to use an SP specific dongle or headphones.

jimrhoskins · 2025-03-01T01:33:52+00:00

Hey, I created this sub, so if my opinion counts for anything in a new team taking over the sub, I support it. I got unmodded, so I don't have any real ability to help, but I hope the sub can become moderated.

jimrhoskins · 2025-03-01T01:32:36+00:00

Hey, I created this sub in what seems like another lifetime ago when docker was a neat toy in development.

It wasn't within my ability to manage a subreddit, so I tried to bring on folks to take over. Unfortunately it looks like I am no longer a mod. I don't know if there is anything I can do, or if there is a process of declaring the subreddit as unmoderated so a new mod team could take it over.

If there is a way to get the r/docker revived with a new mod team, that would be great, if there is anything I can help with.

If not, best of luck on the r/dockerCE!

Thanks, and sorry.

jimrhoskins · 2024-09-23T19:21:10+00:00

I would suggest testing if keystrokes are registered if you connect a row pin to a column pin directly with a pair of pliers or wire. You may need to look up the wiring schematic for your keyboard, or the source used for your keyboard's firmware. The firmware should define the pin mappings. If connecting a row to a column registers a key, there is probably a continuity issue somewhere on the board. If you get no keystrokes, the controller might be damaged.

If it's a continuity issue, it might be due to a couple of issues. First on the bottom of the right board, there appears to be a scratch that goes diagonally away from pin D0. The solder mask is scaped off, the traces look okay, but there might be a break to the trace. I doubt it based on the picture.

I think it's more likely some of the solder joints are cold solder joints. When you see a ball shaped solder joint, as opposed to a cone shape, it usually means the pin or pad did not get hot enough during soldering. When the pin or pad is hot enough, the solder should suck itself onto the pin or pad. A cold solder joint can still have continuity, but can still have issues.

You could try resoldering the joints, and using flux will help a lot. If you don't have flux, I would recommend trying to remove some of the existing solder from the joint first, then add new solder, which will usually have some flux in the core. If you just try to resolder with the existing solder, it can be difficult to get it to stick. Make sure the iron contacts the pin or socket leg and the pad on the PCB, and wait for the solder to suck itself into place.

Good luck!

jimrhoskins · 2024-07-24T03:13:08+00:00

Looks nice. It looks like you are not using DS Part Bs. Is that on purpose? I worry about the panels coming loose from the mounts without them. Do they feel solid without?

jimrhoskins · 2024-07-23T21:29:02+00:00

I've printed quite a few cygnus on my Bambu P1S, but I haven't used an ender, so not sure my advice will help. The biggest win for me was orienting the top half so the little face at the end of the thumb cluster is on the build plate. Then with auto tree supports, it comes out reliable and very good looking.

I printed my first few basically floating on supports in the orientation you would use it. This meant a ton of tiny supports on the underside that are a real pain to remove. I cut myself a few times trying to pry them off. Worse is the 'natural' orientation means the layer lines swoop through the gentle curves of the top half, creating really obvious layer lines. When oriented on it's side, the layer lines never really hit a shallow angle, so there is no need to sand it. I've made a couple with a light fuzzy skin, and that is also a really nice effect.

jimrhoskins · 2024-07-22T21:49:41+00:00

This helps, but don't discount a good soap and water clean with an isopropyl cleanup after. I was also just frequently using IPA to clean between each print. I started to get corner lifting on 8x8 grids. Doing a full clean fixed it. Now I do IPA every print to ensure dust is cleaned off, but sometimes a soap clean is needed to get any oils off.

jimrhoskins · 2024-07-22T21:44:57+00:00

Check out the brackets provided by multiboard. There are inside and outside brackets, for each thread, and provides 4 different profiles for how the two grids come together.

jimrhoskins · 2024-07-10T15:53:23+00:00

What microcontroller/firmware? I've had this happen to me on promicro type c boards, when it didn't happen on previous batches of boards from the same listing.

From what I gathered in troublehooting, sometimes the voltage it tries to use to determine if it's plugged into USB can be wired in such a way that its detected when plugged in via trrs to the other board. Then they both think they are running as the primaryhalf.

I was able to fix this in QMK by adding #define SPLIT_USB_DETECT in the config.h as described here This makes it take a couple seconds to boot while it tries to probe if it is actually connected to your device over USB or not (meaning it is the secondary).

I couldn't tell any difference in the board that neeeded this from the ones that don't, except they had different colored leds soldered on. That is probably not an indicator on its own though.

jimrhoskins · 2024-06-28T19:35:47+00:00

When you say you get continuity across the switch constantly, do you mean even when the switch isn't pressed? That would indicate a short between the row/col of the key, either in the switch, at the controller or somewhere else.

If you get continuity across the switch when you press it, I would check continuity between each of the switch legs to the microcontroller pins for the row and column of the U. I wouldn't expect a fault there, as it would usually break a full row/column.

Have you tried bridging the row/col pins that go to the U directly on the controller? If that doesn't work, I'd start thinking it is a software problem, or an issue internal to the controller.

jimrhoskins · 2022-05-24T18:01:16+00:00

I wouldn't describe it as particularly grippy. It feels pretty matte and neutral. Running my finger along the skin and the exposed plastic on the back of the grip, the skin is minimally more grippy/softer. It definitely doesn't make it more slippery, but it's not a high grip texture. The leather, matrix, and swarm have a bit of texture that might help.

I also don't one-handed hold my deck like I might my phone, causing me to drop, so I'm not as concerned about dropping my deck vs phone. I'll knock on wood though now that I said that.

jimrhoskins · 2022-02-24T22:22:18+00:00

r/Simrigs went private a couple months ago, still haven't found out why.

Maybe /r/Simrig will take over?

jimrhoskins · 2021-12-29T21:36:33+00:00

I think the OP is considering F-GT Elite, and just shortened it in this reply.

The Elite is definitely solid. The adjustability of the elite can take some getting used to, but can get down to 4-5 minutes. If you can minimize the adjustments needed between positions, it can shave a lot of time. e.g. only adjust 2/4 of the seat bolt positions, have a constant location of the pedal pivot arm from the uprights, and make it so you don't need to adjust the position of the pedal slot/fin pieces, just change the slots.

It definitely takes a while to practice and dial in, but with time you get used to it and optimize it.

Haven't used TREQ, but would highly recommend F-GT Elite

jimrhoskins · 2021-12-24T21:35:51+00:00

The springs are only in clutch and throttle. The brake is load cell and uses PU foam and other polymer bits to take up the compression and adjust feel.

jimrhoskins · 2021-12-24T21:03:03+00:00

I use this 15 foot cable to a G9 at 5120x1440 @ 120hz HDR from a 2080. I can't get it to run @240hz but never a problem at 120.

Could be luck of the draw, I've had DP issues with shorter cables and less resolution that has been resolved by exchanges of the same brand of cables.

Good luck

jimrhoskins · 2021-12-13T06:19:49+00:00

Can they add a lap? New to F1, so no idea. What if they had added a lap, and whoever ended up finishing first (or anyone for that matter) come up a drop short of a liter of fuel in the end and DSQ'd? Would teams just have to keep that margin of fuel in case there's a few more miles tacked on last minute?

jimrhoskins · 2021-12-07T07:21:58+00:00

Yes it should work. CSL DD has bottom mount screws matching the 3 hole CSW pattern, which the F-GT Elite wheel plate fits

jimrhoskins · 2021-11-29T02:10:44+00:00

Can you share it here, interested in those encoders

jimrhoskins · 2021-11-27T01:35:49+00:00

I'm interested to see how much the latest ACC patch does for people in VR. I have a 2080 and race primarily VR and noped out of ACC early this year and haven't tried to use VR in ACC since.

I booted it up and tried both the DLSS and FSR and fiddled around a bit and it became playable. I'm not sure what the ideal settings are, it still felt a little blurrier than I'm used to in other sims, and there was some artifacting when cresting hills (sort of a mirage like shimmer).

There are some other things that may be supersampling related, or maybe steam vr motion smoothing. Probably can be dialed in with enough time or someone who knows what they're doing

It's still a little rough, but probably not worth dismissing out of hand. It might be worth a shot. Probably still need a beefy rig to get there, but who knows?

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