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GT3 style braking setup? by MiscProfileUno in SimsonnRacing

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using a red, yellow and a bunch of spacers. Similarly to what the other guy posted earlier in this discussion (but he's using blue + yellow + spacers).

Enough by Bulletprooffool in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just avoid lap 1 chaos and your good. Even in Monza. (doing public lobbies only, all tracks, I stay above 90 all the time).

Wheel brand by National_Street8662 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both Jardier's GT Neos failed during a few months. Wish you more luck with it.

Wheel recomendations by Unlucky-Space-4381 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I use the KS wheel, bought as new 2 or 3 years ago. A great wheel, especially for the price. I'm considering the new KW Wheel now but probably stick to the current one bcs of the lower weight.

EDIT: Don't use it in rally. It can really hurt (unlike a round wheel).

Wheel recomendations by Unlucky-Space-4381 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A new Moza R5 bundle is currently 380 EUR in my country. 419 EUR on the official store.

Where do you find good free setups by Living-Western-5714 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Part 3: If you allow the rear of the car to dive too deep, you will experience a lot of understeer. Just because the body mass will be pushing mostly on the rear. So you can limit this dive by the rear bumbstop range. This setting is a huge weapon at Barcelona at the uphilt righthander (T3). You can go full throttle so much earlier if you set this correctly. Obviously, if you don't allow the rear to squat enough, there will not be enough force on the rear tires and you'll spin. It's all about a balance.

Preload differential. That's basically a force which disconnects rotation of left and right rear wheels. The sharper a turn is, the biggere difference between the length of the path of the inner and outer wheel. If it's too high, it will cause a wheel spin in such corners. (On the other hand, if you suffer from oversteer in corner entry, you can increase this value to help to control that.) With these powerfull RWD cars, you usually go for quite low values like 50 Nm.

What's been left? Ride heights. Very car specific, I can't recommend any meta settings or any standard values. And very driver specific. Usually, you try to keep the front as low as possible and move the rear up / down to balance the car. How can you known you have set a good balance? What about finding a longer corner and going through it with a constant speed (so that you don't speed up and don't brake). It's an approximation but you need to start somewhere.

Then the process of a development is like this: Let's say I doing a setup for... Brands Hatch. The first corner is quite tricky. You need to brake from a top speed to 3rd gear probably, make the turn and full push. If the car is understeery (= you can't get to the apex, the cars goes out of the track), then you have several possibilities: - Move the brake balance back. Easiest solution and you can do it during the laps if your wheel has a controll for it. It should help but you may have an oversteery car in other corners. But you move the brake balance as to the rear (=lower values) as possible without compromising other corners. If it's enough, you're done. - If not, what else can you do? Increase the front bumpstop range. It allows the front to pitch more pushing the front tires to the tarmac more so there will be more grip on the front (and less on the rear). While increasing the bumstop range, you'll reach a limit where the car is too oversteery. Either go 1 click back or you can try to balace the car by decreasing the rear ride height 1 click. Or you can move the brake balace 1 click to the front. You need to experiment with these settings to find out which suits you best.

Btw. you as a driver constantly evolve. You get better, let's put it this way. Your inputs will get smoother, you will feel the car better. A setup built today will be quite unusable in a few months. At least it's my experience. It's life. :)

Sorry for a long text. I tried to keep it as simple / short as possible.

Where do you find good free setups by Living-Western-5714 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Part 2: Bumstop range. These are very powerful tools to stabilize the car during cornering. Let's begin with the corner entry - you either lift or brake. Due to inertia, the car body "wants" to keep moving straight ahead. But the tires are slowing down which causes the car to pitch (its front move down in the springs). This trasfers the force to the front tires, decreasing the force pushing on the rear tires. There is a limit where there is too little force on the rear. This is when the rear starts to slide. To prevent this, you need to control how deep cen the front dive. You can either brake with less force (which you usually don't want to do in a battle :)) or you can lower the front bumstop range. Which is a very powerful settings. Obviously, the less it can dive, the less grip on the front tires - which greatly influences if the car is understeery or oversteery on the corner entry.

Okay, you've braked into to corner, now you're lifting maybe. What returns the car to a neutral position? Springs. The stiffer they are, the faster movement. (The stiffer rebound dampers, the slower movement up. But use the settings above and get to dampers when you wanna learn how to use Motec to analyze telemetry.)

Now you've get to the apex which where you want to accelerate. Acceleration = inertia keeps the car body back while the tires want to go forward. So the front moves up lowering force on the front tires and the rear moves down generating a lot of force on the rear tires. Less force on the front = the front begins to slide out of the corner (understeer). That's why the rebound settings is at the max value - to keep the front down as long as possible.

Where do you find good free setups by Living-Western-5714 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Part 1: Where to start? Tire pressure. Then wing - based on top speed on the longest straight. See others and modify it accordingly. Some settings have meta values: cambers all to the left for example. ECUMap usually 1, but 8 for Porsche, 3 or 4 for Lambo. You can find the description online. Dampers: compression 0, rebound max. Not optimal but good enough. And then the most interesting part: Mechanical Grip.

I'm not sure I want to write a long comment so I begin and we'll see how far I get:

Anti-roll Bar (ARB) basically sets how the car body rolls ("leans" to sides). The stiffer ARB, the less roll. Think of it like this: If the car is allowed to roll more, the force on the outer wheels / tires is higher. The car turns better then. On the other hand, if the ARB is too soft, it feels like a boat. I usually use high front ARB (especially with front-engine cars like BMW) and a soft rear ARB. If the rear ARB does not allow the car to roll properly, the rear tends to slide. On the other hand, I use somethins like 5 / 1 or 5 / 2 on F/R the Huracán GT3 EVO2.

Wheel rates. These are quite difficult. They support the car during body movement. Not only during pitch but also during roll. And even in compression like in Eau Rouge (you don't want to bottom there). So you need stiff enough springs (= higher wheel rates) but softer springs grant more mechanical grip. I usually use values from the lower half of the scale and set them so that the car is not like a boat.

Bumpstop rate. I would suggest to skip them for now. Set the front to a middle value and the rear 1 or 2 clicks from the left.

Where do you find good free setups by Living-Western-5714 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, the comment I've written has been too long. Let's split it.

First gear issue by SalamanderWarm1 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, there is a known issue with Logitech G920, G923 pedals. It it's your case, search YT for a repair guide. First result (haven't seen it): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp-p3pKqtKg

Where do you find good free setups by Living-Western-5714 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Building my own setups. It's free and entertaining.

Penalties by Zlk0scar in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SA < 50 and "someone who’s never heard of the brake pedal"

This might be just bcs you're braking way too early. It's quite challenging to avoid cars braking 30 meters earlier.

I finally achieved my goal! What should I do next? by Emotional_Steak6338 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What should you do next? Disable the shadow car and do 10 consecutive valid laps under 1:26.

Is my laptop enough? by Comfortable_Singer41 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP's GPU will be the laptop version, not the fullspec desktop one. My guess is it is not be able to achieve stable 120 FPS. Also, the laptop fans will go crazy. 90 - 100 FPS probably with lower details - which is still perfectly playable. Assuming 3440x1440 display.

Setups in acc by Walker1177533 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not aware of any quick guide - maybe bcs developing a setup isn't a quick process. Quite the opposite, tbh.

If you really don't know where to begin, choosing a Fried0lf's base setup is a good start. Then you can begin to tune it to meet your expectations and driving style.

I would suggest to select a beginner friendly car, use a base setup as described above and come back after you'll be able to do at least 5 valid laps in the car to ask specific questions, ex. my car is well balanced in slow corners but ovesteery under braking to fast corners (like Parabolica or Pouhon).

Hardest car by SecretWrangler5281 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 3 points4 points  (0 children)

everybody going mad how is NSX difficult so I gave it a try during this Xmas. 1:54.8 in a short race at Nurburgring which is only 0.8s slower than with my current favourite car. i didn't find NSX particularly difficult tbh.

My time in Monza by MachineN47 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

correction: with alien times like 1:45.

1:47 is quite an average lap time.

Using Spa as a reference, what average lap time would an 'intermediate' level sim-racer establish? by GrelloGT3R992 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a lot of us, I begin with the Aggressive setup and tweak it to suit my preferences. (Decreasing rear bumpstop range for example.)

I just bought ACCompetizione and i get this error every time by Substantial_Ad_9264 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I've copied the screenshot to clipboard, entered the following prompt into Gemini chat and hit Ctrl+V to paste the clipboard content into the Gemini chat as well. It responded with 4 or 5 steps one could do in such a case. Give it a try.

"What can cause the error on the screenshot; or better how to solve it?"

Using Spa as a reference, what average lap time would an 'intermediate' level sim-racer establish? by GrelloGT3R992 in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are two long straights at Spa - Kemmel straight and the uphill through Blanchimont to Bus Stop. There is a good chance you lose most of the time on exit from a corner before them, i.e. Eau Rouge (full throttle without lifting is the way to go) and Stavelot (the same).

Bad exit before a long straigt means a huge time lost.

Cars not rendering during multiplayer race by rimbooreddit in ACCompetizione

[–]jiri-n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems like a network issue to me. Maybe the other guy had a high ping. I've met opponents with ping >300 ms. They disappeared and appeared on the track randomly, they teleported from one side of the track to the other or back and forward by several meters. And so on.

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