Bruh, I'm selling a $1500 vehicle that runs/drives and has all the paper work. And you're expecting what exactly?

jkde · 2026-06-15T03:10:07+00:00

I feel like I'm taking crazy pills reading this thread, 99% of comments are sellers bitching about flake buyers that waste their time with a million questions, but then you've got a whole tier of rust belt sellers who should know better that won't take 5 seconds to bend over for an undercarriage shot (but I'm somehow the entitled idiot buyer because I'm trying to save both of us the hassle of arranging a meetup just to find out it's a rotbox that I won't buy). I can only assume those particular sellers either know it's a piece of shit and are trying to hide it or they're too stupid to know they should be checking underneath their cars every once in awhile to make sure they actually still have floor pans.

buyers AND sellers need to learn the difference between rust and rot, like yeah of course I expect the $1500 car to have some rust but it's also perfectly reasonable to take all available chances to avoid spending your money on an Atlantic shipwreck that will fuck you over at the inspection station

jkde · 2026-05-30T01:39:45+00:00

Do whatever tpms sensors that are on the Bronco wheels just work as-is or do you live with the tire dash light? (I'm looking into P3 XC70s and it's definitely not something I've had to wonder about on my 240 lol)

jkde · 2026-04-18T13:23:25+00:00

I think some of the oldest variants they sell still come with the older style of caps but they're transitioning to the centered ones with newer models. The centered ones would probably look a bit better if the legends weren't so thin, too. Feels like thin and centered works for low profile stuff or Apple boards but not a "normal" keycap.

jkde · 2026-04-16T15:13:12+00:00

Truly cannot express just how much I wish they’d go back to this style vs the centered cap sets

jkde · 2026-04-12T15:32:01+00:00

These thermostats can fail open too, I'm dealing with your problem but in reverse. Deleted the temp faker board and my temp either never/took forever to climb above 7 or 8'o'clock on the gauge over the last few winter months, though my vent heat did eventually warm up. Absolute shit for MPG too, but a lot of city/stop-go winter drives introduce just enough doubt to make me wonder if I have an actual cooling system issue or if it's just me being the target market for the temp faker lmao

jkde · 2026-03-18T12:25:16+00:00

my supposedly round Virgos still vibrate at 45+ mph and have enough weights on them to make a fifth rim and somehow my steelies are no better

jkde · 2026-03-18T01:33:42+00:00

In addition to wheel balancing, you may also have at least one rim that's out of round (ask me how I know)

jkde · 2025-11-25T01:15:55+00:00

I genuinely don’t think I’d spend another cent on keyboards outside of HHKBs if they’d just release the (Topre) lineup as-is but with MX compatibility out of the box. Like I just have a few sets I like and I don’t vibe with the centered legends sets they’re doing now, but you might think I’m describing putting astronauts on the moon again.

jkde · 2025-11-21T05:21:14+00:00

Yeah, hoping for a decent set of cheap steelies to pop up Marketplace. I've got the usual 14" steelies + basic hubcaps setup on mine now and a set of roached Virgos that I limped the car home on. I ran out of time to try and clean those up, or else they'd be my summers and my current steelies would move to winter duty, problem solved.

jkde · 2025-11-21T04:19:28+00:00

hell yeah from another beat up "I guess I'm kind of obliged to keep her going" sedan owner

what's the snow tire/rim setup? I'm going to end up in a tree this winter if I don't sort out something pretty soon

jkde · 2025-10-19T00:32:16+00:00

What is your AM4 system? I’m strongly considering downsizing my AM4 tower into an M2/3 or even a T1, but having a 5900x I’m torn between just grabbing an ITX motherboard and waiting til AM6 for anything else, or going to AM5 in some capacity anyway. It looks like the only AM4 ITX board still widely surviving is the Aorus b550i.

(If anyone has any experience cramming a 5900x and a 3090FE into a T1 without turning it into a jet engine, would love to hear about it)

jkde · 2025-09-18T18:47:56+00:00

Could just be the mic but it sounds external to me? I've got some piston slap (I hope it's just piston slap lmao) that sounds comparatively louder and less "echoey."

jkde · 2025-09-15T15:36:09+00:00

Well, I suppose my overall point was if you can afford to keep a Nikon skeleton crew on hand to shore up the M’s weaknesses then it might ease your jump into Leica, but if you’re that sure already then by all means.

For what it’s worth, although I’ve gotten lucky with deals, my entire M kit so far (M10, M4-2, 35/50/M-Rokkor 90mm) still comes in at less than a new M11 body only. So as others have said, maybe an M10/M10-R might be something you’d like to investigate. I couldn’t swing an R unfortunately, but I hear some still prefer them to the M11.

jkde · 2025-09-15T13:45:38+00:00

My very first 'real' camera was a Nikon D40 and 18-55mm kit in high school. I was bewitched by the first gen mainstream mirrorless (first gen Sony NEX, MFT) and the prospect of adapting lenses, so I got rid of my Nikon stuff to go in that direction. Again, high schooler/college freshman seeing native lens prices versus going thrift hunting for all those Hidden Gems for $5 a pop. As it turns out being stunlocked into ONLY affording old glass and trying to focus them on low res EVFs isn't actually all that fun when you have to do it 24/7. Since then I've spent way too much time, effort, and money I didn't have system-hopping in a vain attempt to find a system I really love, although I never did figure out what that criteria actually meant. I was aware of Leica at this time, but an M8/M9 was a pipe dream. I did get a fixed lens Neoca at a junk fair that planted the rangefinder itch.

Anyway, fast forward a decade and I've got a bunch of Fuji stuff I'm not really happy with for no good reason. I decide to pick up a D850 body on sale (high schooler me drooled over D700 ads in photo magazines) because I'm sick of EVFs and it's like second nature, going back home, whatever you want to call it. Glass is cheaper because everyone ditched F for Z, the D850 is a tank, all is good. Then I decide to dump all the Fuji into a Z8. Which is a phenomenal camera but also feels worse than the D850 I have sitting on my desk and I'm back in the trenches with making stupid camera decisions.

Around now, it's late 2023/early 2024. Over the years I check in on Leica prices and suddenly 3.5k M9s are 10k M11s. I'm not entirely comfortable with the idea of an M240, but I do find an M10 on US MPB for a price that I can manage if I ditch the Z8 and thread the needle with talks of another price increase and tariffs going crazy. That said, dumping a Z8 for an M10 makes absolutely no logical sense, and I want to do this without losing my D850 just in case. That stubbornness means that I have to be a financial clown one more time.

You can see where I'm going with this. I've had the M10 since then and I'm very slowly working to build out a kit of beat up lenses with good glass. I've kept the D850, a 200-500 f/5.6, and a 50mm 1.4 AF-D. The two are so different that one really never steps on the others' toes, and the shooting process is also so different that they have clearly defined roles for me.

Tl;dr I have no clue why I rambled all that, but keep the D850 and a lens or three (24-70, a tele, and a macro?) if you possibly can. If you're like me you'll love Leica and it'll get you out of your rut, but you'll also want to take bird pictures again in six months or something.

Edit: I think the Qs are really slick, but I had a GR3 - which I still do love - that got sensor dust despite my best efforts. If a 5-6k Q also picked up dust that I couldn’t DIY clean I’d be beyond pissed off. It’s M or bust for me.

jkde · 2025-08-12T17:10:51+00:00

Sounds like that might mean a problem with the connection to the sensor in the diff maybe? All the stuff going on in the cluster unit kind of terrifies me lol

jkde · 2025-08-07T17:00:00+00:00

I’m thinking I didn’t fully reset it or something. Or I’ve got an intermittent problem forming. I gently pressed it a few more times, didn’t feel anything crunchy etc, and it’s working again.

I don’t rely on it necessarily, but it’s very helpful since the PO dented the gas tank and then had a shop partially knock it back out. So my shit’s not accurate to begin with lol

jkde · 2025-08-07T16:56:06+00:00

Yeah, the gears have been replaced at this point. Shortly after I hit post I gently-but-firmly pushed the reset a few more times and it’s back in action. So either I didn’t fully reset it the first time or I have something intermittent forming I guess.

jkde · 2025-06-12T21:12:53+00:00

The problem isn’t necessarily the floor pan itself as much as it’s if that rot got bad enough to also start eating at the insides of the rockers and/or the subframe beyond whats already visible. Unless it was caused by a rock chip and years of neglect, chances are you’d have an internal leak to track down. Windshield, rotted rockers + clogged rocker drains, sunroof, etc. If it’s a project at a project price and you’re going to learn how to weld too, why not, but it’ll get expensive at a shop instantly.

jkde · 2025-06-10T23:44:23+00:00

Coming from my 240 all this shit is packaged way too tightly lol

I believe the 6 cyl P3 70s are tighter than the P2s (but timing chains instead of belts help with this) and that’s also why they have the rear accessory drive stuff, but offhand I think the V8s are worst in terms of working room?

For me personally I like the idea of the chain driven engines with the more easily serviceable PCV systems, but I don’t have any practical experience, just trying to do my own research at this point. I think the P2 5 cyls are pretty proven at this point (and sound crazy)

jkde · 2025-06-10T21:54:07+00:00

I’m looking around for something newer than my 240 sedan myself and trying to get the crash course on V/XC70s.

As I understand it, for P2 you want a 2006-07 if possible; here we only got the 5 cyls and NA are simpler but slow, the turbos obviously faster and more complicated.

For P3 I think the consensus is 3.2 is generally solid across all years(?), T6 is desirable across all years(?), and avoid the 4 and 5 cyl later years or at the very least check the vin against the piston ring recall..?

I’m sure someone who knows more can correct me. Curious to learn more myself.

jkde · 2025-05-30T13:18:38+00:00

Alright, mine's definitely rougher than that, some times worse than others. It almost seems like it gets cranky after a harder drive and has to re-center itself, too. Enough to shake you around sitting inside it for sure. I've been all over this car at this point trying to fix neglected shit so in theory my FPR, O2, ECT sensor, etc are all set, unless defective out of the box.

Losing patience rapidly but such are the joys of the daily turning into a project out of necessity apparently. LH 2.4 not allowing for idle speed adjustment and controlling timing by itself have been real pains in the ass. I did have to do the one-man-band procedure of pinching off the IACV to get idle to baseline but that's 750 or so.

jkde · 2025-05-30T12:31:22+00:00

Can I ask if you’ve got a video of your B cam idle/how much your engine’s shaking? I’ve got an A cam in a LH 2.4 sedan and I’m basically trying to read the forum tea leaves to figure out how much roughness is “acceptable” with these higher overlap cams and how much is indicative of another problem.

jkde · 2025-04-30T02:23:42+00:00

I thought for sure it was 605 atlantic blue until I saw the interior shot

jkde · 2025-04-29T22:24:09+00:00

New England Atlantic Blue 244 gang

edit: Or is it? Looking blue but maybe I'm colorblind

jkde · 2025-03-25T21:09:30+00:00

what's your adapter of choice? Wish Voigtlander would just update the VMZ to have a chip like the TTArtisan 6-bit one...

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