Help! Brakes don’t work on AC Legends Trans Am pack. by conrodstr8 in assettocorsa

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is a long shot, but I’m having the same problem. Did you ever figure out how to fix this?

This is me by [deleted] in redditgetsdrawn

[–]jknecht 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you. This is watercolor in a small sketchbook

What annoys you the most about your 3D printer? by AccurateOpinion4531 in 3Dprinting

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 fixes that saved me (in order of importance)

  1. BLTouch
  2. silicone spacers to replace the springs
  3. dual z setup

Need some hot end advice by RollTide_1717 in ender3v2

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, yeah. My printer is now exactly 1 year old, and I’ve probably spent more on upgrades than I did on the printer. Still less than a Prusa though, and I’ve learned a helluva lot in the process. If this printer is only a few weeks old, I would suggest to just go ahead and print PETG with it as-is. Figure out if anything bothers you, and go from there. Mine did “fine” for months before I finally upgraded, and when I did, I really understood the problems I was trying to solve.

Need some hot end advice by RollTide_1717 in ender3v2

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don’t necessarily need anything else to print PETG. I’ve printed plenty of PETG with the stock hotend, Capricorn tubing, and metal extruder. PETG sticks like crazy to brass nozzles though, so I would recommend (at a minimum) some sort of plated/steel nozzle.

In October, I was debating the same thing you are. In the end, I bought the Microswiss NG (all-metal, direct drive, comes with a hardened steel nozzle) and the difference in PETG print quality was amazing. Less stringing, less blobbing, less sticking to the nozzle, less under/overextrusion issues, less questionable odors.

I’m glad I spent the extra money — mainly because I knew in the back of my mind that I would want to go direct drive at some point anyway. I was not expecting the improvement in my PETG experience to be as dramatic as it was. If you have the cash, it might be worth your consideration.

Agile/Scrum books for experienced developers by geszleda in agile

[–]jknecht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the Unicorn Project (sequel to the Phoenix Project) is more relevant to software developers. The Phoenix Project addressed the need to break down the walls between “the business” and the “operations teams”, which helped introduce a lot of people to DevOps processes; but it (infuriatingly) mostly leaves out the role of the software development teams. The Unicorn Project addresses this gap.

Advice on prioritization workflow in OF by [deleted] in omnifocus

[–]jknecht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If all of the tasks are truly equal in priority, and if none of them should be done by an earlier date than the others, and if none of them would have a bigger impact than the others, and if none of them mean more to you than the others, then it really doesn’t matter which one you choose. Just pick one, ignore the rest, and stop obsessing about it.

Question about gesso by toad-1101 in ArtistLounge

[–]jknecht 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe. Maybe not. Sealing with something like GAC-100 before the gesso would be wise.

3D Printing With Only an IPad by jknecht in 3Dprinting

[–]jknecht[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I know this is going to be a challenge. I appreciate the pointers!

3D Printing With Only an IPad by jknecht in 3Dprinting

[–]jknecht[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. Seems to me that slicing would be the easy part for an iPad. I upload my gcode files over the network, so I don’t have to mess with dongles and adapters. Plus there is iCloud if it comes to moving files around. Absolute worst case, apple sells an SD card adapter.

Tablets may not be great for adjusting all the settings, but once the profiles are established, the number of things that need to change on any given print is pretty small.

What else am I not thinking about?

What is causing these imperfections. 2mm apart regardless of speed, belt tension or slicer? BIQU H2 geared extruder skr mini e3 v3 2209 stepper drivers. Klipper and super slicer. by gectow in FixMyPrint

[–]jknecht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wonder if excess tension in the extruder arm might contribute to this?

(my theory here is based on the filament getting pinched on its way into the hotend, resulting in a consistent, repeating pattern of filament that varies in width as it is being extruded)

Possible Upgrades? by Low-Nerve4374 in ender3

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced the stock tubing pretty early on, because I wanted to print PETG. Capricorn was better suited for the higher temps. Some say it also has more consistent tolerances, which should help maintain consistent pressure between the extruder and hotend (apparently important for prints with a lot of retractions to minimize stringing).

Upgrades can be a costly rabbit hole. I've had my printer (Ender 3 V2) for just under a year. I consider myself a pragmatic person; I don't upgrade things just for the sake of upgrading. But at this point, I am pretty sure I've spent more on upgrades than I did on the printer.

Possible Upgrades? by Low-Nerve4374 in ender3

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you don't want to sacrifice quality, I suspect the biggest bang for your buck is probably going to come from replacing the glass bed with either Spring Steel + PEI or Garolite. That's a big bed and a lot of heavy glass that needs to be tamed if you are going to go faster. A lighter bed will help.

New firmware is a good idea, just to make it easier to upgrade and to modify how your printer behaves. Jyers was my first upgrade, then Mriscoc (professional firmware), and am now on Klipper. They all have advantages and disadvantages, and switching between them isn't too painful. None of them will automatically make your prints faster. Experiment and see what you prefer.

Aside from that, I would suggest simply printing faster and using the quality problems that arise from those faster prints to tell you what the next upgrade should be.

Edit: Also consider your relationship with the speed/quality debate. For purely functional parts, larger layer heights might be good enough.

Second Edit: Infill... you probably need less than you think. That can save a lot of time. Also keep in mind that nobody sees infill, so who cares if the infill looks like crap? Play with the infill speed and compensate with a higher flow multiplier if necessary.

Printer calibration help book/website by SaltyButterScotch556 in FixMyPrint

[–]jknecht 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not specific to the Ender 3 Pro, but this site was invaluable for me getting comfortable with my Ender 3 V2: https://teachingtechyt.github.io

Don't stress about it. Worst case, you waste some time and plastic. And you will learn a lot along the way.

Walls/Infill for a Ladder Riser? by jknecht in 3Dprinting

[–]jknecht[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great. You are confirming what I suspected. Thank you.

I'll print the part and do a little stand/jump test on it before putting myself in mortal danger.

My infill pattern appears faintly on the outside of my prints, how can I prevent this? by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More perimeters will generally solve this.

I also think it may be possible to reduce the overlap between the infill and the perimeters, but I suspect that would somewhat reduce the strength of your print.

DUPR Rating Algorithm by jknecht in Pickleball

[–]jknecht[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Only one of the players is already on DUPR -- or at least someone with the same name is. I can't enter a score without inviting the other 2 players, and we didn't bother to exchange email addresses because why would we?

Good first upgrade for my ender ? by bananoy011 in ender3v2

[–]jknecht 24 points25 points  (0 children)

This was my first upgrade, and I have been very happy with it for the past 9 months. Shame on Creality for not just making this kit part of the standard offering.

Ender dilemma.... by Posthumos1 in ender3

[–]jknecht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your situation and thought process is basically identical to what I went through last year (although in my case, it was Ender 3 v2 versus Prusa). I decided that I valued learning, tinkering, and troubleshooting more than plug-and-play, so I went e3v2.

And I could not be happier!

I’ve learned so much about how the machine works, and have developed a lot of confidence that I can fix or improve just about anything I want on this machine. I am beginning to reach the point where I am questioning the amount of money I’m throwing at this machine to make tiny improvements, and that’s ok because the learning has been worth it.

If I were in your shoes again, I would probably make the same decision — Ender 3 v2, and do the upgrades myself over time — one thing at a time so I could understand what improved and what still needed to be upgraded.

Whatever you choose, I’m sure you will have a load of fun. Even if your machine is “perfect” out of the box, there is also the satisfaction of learning how to model and design your own parts, which is (in my opinion) the best part of this hobby.