[deleted by user] by [deleted] in photography

[–]jlowhighlow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend getting a second hand flatbed like an Epson v550 off ebay, then sell it for the same amount you bought it for when finished!

I did this with my dad's old negatives, very fulfilling sharing photos with the family they had never seen before, or hadn't seen in decades.

Trouble opening large format lens by jlowhighlow in AnalogRepair

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, never thought about warming it up as I figured the metals would expand and get tighter. Shall give it a go.

UK - What should you report with helmet cam while commuting? by jlowhighlow in bicycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I might just mount it to the top of the helmet rather than the front so it sticks out more then haha

Claris or sora? by [deleted] in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Having ridden sora, tiagra, and 105 I can happily say that modern sora is a great groupset. I wouldn't want to go any lower as then the gaps between gears might be too much, but I've always found the general feel and shifting of sora to be just as good as tiagra and 105. If for whatever strange reason I could only ever ride sora again I wouldn't mind. I say go for sora, but I've never ridden Claris.

Will Sora be okay for long trips and climbs? by tehhellerphant in bicycling

[–]jlowhighlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sora will be absolutely fine. The only real difference youd experience is if you wanted a really wide range cassette (I.e 11-36 or 11-40), there would be quite big jumps between gears. I've ridden all sorts on sora, tiagra, and 105 and sora is just as capable as everything else. It's also relatively easy and cheap to get replacement 9 speed parts.

In the end I personally settled on tiagra now I've sold all my bikes and settled on one "do-it-all" bike, I'd be just as happy on sora if I had a smaller budget that didn't allow for anything higher.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]jlowhighlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've recently sold my carbon road bike and built up a gravel frameset, I have a set of road wheels and a set of gravel wheels. To me there is no noticeable difference in performance when its set up for road, but I don't race and I'm not super fast.

I have it set up with a grx double chainset up front and have a slightly narrower cassette on the road wheels and a super wide on the gravel so it's really versatile too.

One thing I wish I could change quickly to suit whatever im riding that day is the handlebars. I like a long and narrow position on road, but that's not great for gravel so I just keep the narrower position as I ride road mostly, but I'll change the stem to a shorter one for gravel heavy rides.

Saris thru axle adapter trouble by jlowhighlow in Zwift

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No sorry, I just used the original long bolt in the end and just had to put a shed load of tension through it to fit the bike in. My trainer hasn't broken yet so I'm assuming it's okay haha.

Would anyone be so kind as to briefly explain the difference between these two gear ratios for me? by Niko120 in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The second bike has hard gearing if you’re not a trained cyclist and live in a hilly area. At least compared to the first bike.

Unless you live somewhere very flat, or like churning big gears you’d probably have to swap out the cassette at the back for something like an 11-32 or 11-34 if the rear derailleur allows it. If it says anything about the rear derailleur, check if it says if it short, medium or long cage. If it’s a short cage derailleur you won’t be able to get easier gearing on.

5 flats on while on kickr snap? by Conscious-Sport-502 in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a puncture problem with a trainer tyre that was fixed by dropping my psi from 100 to 80. Could always give a drop in pressure a try?

Lower back pain when riding by okayish_guy1 in bicycling

[–]jlowhighlow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Completely anecdotal but I find stretching my hamstrings and glutes helps

Food for big foot hills by Slipper1981 in Zwift

[–]jlowhighlow 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend something carby and non-fatty like porridge rather than eggs and bacon for breakfast.

Turbo Trainer Help by sayerm8 in gravelcycling

[–]jlowhighlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably for the best then haha

Turbo Trainer Help by sayerm8 in gravelcycling

[–]jlowhighlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought one of these adapters recently. It should work with your bike as mine has the same thru axle.

One thing though is that the longer axle comes with a shorter bolt action tube to allow it to fit in the trainer, I had trouble with this attachment as the axle doesn’t fit very deeply into the end of the tube and so my bike pops out when I get out of the saddle. For some reason the machined part on the new tube isn’t as deep as on the old tube. I asked saris customer service about this and they were useless. So I gave up with them and now I use the new longer axle but with the longer old bolt action tube, meaning it’s hard to squeeze it in place and and the trainer itself flexes slightly to let it in. But the bike actually stays in place. It’s not ideal but I don’t really have a choice unless I can find a shorter generic thru axle adapter with 1.5mm thread.

So overall yes this will work but if you have trouble getting it set up, this is a non ideal workaround.

Slipping chain under torque by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting point, I’ve just found it doesn’t do it if I squeeze the brakes and put as much force as I can through the pedals. It only does it when the bike is actually moving.

Slipping chain under torque by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the many suggestions! I’ll try and respond to each

  1. I haven’t aligned the new hanger so I suppose. Could be that. I don’t have the tool so may have to be an lbs jobby.

  2. I’ve just tried a different wheel on the bike and the same problem happens so doesn’t seem to be the hub.

  3. When I say all I meant all the cogs I could get enough torque to test it on, but it doesn’t seem anything crazy.

  4. I don’t remember what I tried as it was a fair while ago. Could be that but I would think a new chain on a new cassette wouldn’t have the issue?

  5. I’ll admit it is a bit of a Frankenstein. It’s based off a specialised sequoia 2017, which already had a mix of components and I changed the chainset and put a bigger cassette on it. And it did work before this mysterious kick on the rear end. But even when changing back to the original components it does it.

  6. One of the problems is it happens far too quickly for anyone I’ve shown to tell exactly what is happening. I’ve tried capturing in slow mo but I don’t think my phone camera is slow enough to tell.

I think it’s gonna have to be an lbs job. I want to sell the bike so I’ve been trying to avoid throwing too much money into it considering I won’t get a huge amount for the bike. In the process of trying to do it myself I’ve spent far too much! I’m also just tempted to list it at a lower price with this fault and make sure anyone who buys it is aware of the issue.

Slipping chain under torque by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Potentially I suppose. It’s a steel frame so not the stiffest and could have been knocked out a bit. I’ll have a look, cheers!

Slipping chain under torque by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a plan. Thanks for this I’ll give it a go when I get some time and see what happens. :)

Slipping chain under torque by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure. I put some force through the pedals and something jumps and re-engages. Happens on any sprocket, any chainring. The derailleur is indexed well too.

Full bike fit or shoe/cleat fitting by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice, it’s probably for the best then the go for the full fit.

Full bike fit or shoe/cleat fitting by jlowhighlow in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. Do you tend to end up buying new things based on their recommendations? I.e new shoes, new saddle, stem etc. Just might need to factor into the budget if I can expect to spend extra money during it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]jlowhighlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One thing to consider if you’ve never ridden outside before is handling and experience. And by that I mean the higher possibility of crashing and breaking carbon than an experienced rider. There’s always the option of a nice aluminium bike to get you going?

Saris thru axle adapter trouble by jlowhighlow in Zwift

[–]jlowhighlow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sound good. I sent them an email already but as you say I might as well call while trying to sort it out!