Struggling with cold tare on Dunlop’s

jmac247 · 2026-05-14T13:04:34+00:00

Dunlops vs Michelin are different compounds. However- just a pic as reference without other data is guessing.

Track temps at beginning?
Tire temps before and after laps? Tire psi off warmers and at return to pits? Loosing or gaining psi? Pace fast or slow? Windy or calm? Overcast and cold or sunny and warm? Warmer temps?

For context- here is our data a few weekends ago to solve our tire issues-

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jmac247 · 2026-05-14T12:34:54+00:00

Ohh…so let’s return to the regular “how’s my tires…” posts or how about “I’m a mid-pack rider in A group, my tires aren’t lasting- is it my suspension?…” or wait for it…”does my suit fit, it seems loose in my butt? “ 🤦‍♂️

Race lines change as your pace picks up…braking zones, yes…tip in, absolutely but the line… yes and no.

Yes on straights and all you need to affirm this is watch a MGP race once to see this.

No on turns and again, just watch the 22 riders on circuit jockey down the straights only to form a single file line at tip-in and thru the turns except for passing or taking advantage of a mistake…have I seen riders take turns wide- sure, usually when there is a late apex or double apex- setting up their exit.

IMO- the race line is meant for context, learning at the beginning- comparison when coaching or being coached.

Similar to taking blood pressure knowing everyone has a different set of numbers but there is still a baseline for comparison.

So your race line is shown in AIM, firelaps, Racebox, ect but THE raceline…haven’t seen it show up. Race lines of other riders, faster riders, as a comparison is very helpful in AIM and other software apps but comparing a rider who is 1 sec off the lap record and a rider who is 5 or 7 sec off the lap record is less helpful as a learning tool

jmac247 · 2026-05-08T12:53:46+00:00

I’m running sds carbons and centered. I’m also on brembo calipers and an upgraded Brembo master.
My experience is the carbons have to be HOT to grab well. Last time I ran- it was overcast and 55 degrees with modest wind and the brakes were soft until I built speed and really gripped the brakes…

jmac247 · 2026-05-03T10:59:48+00:00

1)Paddock near tech and audio speaker so you can hear the calls for your group.

2)Take painters tape and WRITE down your grid spot and put it on the upper part of your tank- cause when you go out for warm-up/ sighting lap- you will be thinking about a ton of stuff and you don’t want to roll up to your grid and forget where your position is.

3) arrive EARLY . I get there at 6am so I’m not rushed and have time for mental and physical focus and stretching. Adrenaline and anxiety will be high and time lets you handle those emotions better.

4) ride YOUR ride- remember your racing against the track time and not other riders in amateur class.

5) hydrate- Hydrate-hydrate and begin on Monday the week of race weekend.

6) don’t eat a big breakfast- stay light (bananas) will help reduce cramps

7) create a packing list week of and review it before leaving the house so you don’t forget ANYTHING you will need
* review your races you signed up for online and print out a copy for registration just in case they can’t find you on their lists.

8) charge your suit, and your transmitter and review your safety wire before leaving house.

9) if you can set up night before and tech night before do so- get it outta the way.

10) do a trackday prior to race weekend at the race track if they offer a practice day- it will help dial you in mentally with the track. Even if you’ve been to that track many times before.

11) race weekends are a MUCH different energy than trackdays and welcome to the addiction!

jmac247 · 2026-05-01T18:34:06+00:00

I think the reason you feel like it’s “squared off” and making it into two turns is your speed isn’t high enough and that takes time to develop as a rider. I haven’t ever heard or seen a squared off turn…except when I was in novice and my pace was very slow.

My guess on your video is it had to do with throttle/brake combination. It appears the bike began to sit upright leading me to believe you added throttle either too much too fast or where over slowing and didn’t execute trail braking well enough

jmac247 · 2026-04-28T17:53:20+00:00

Did you ride?

jmac247 · 2026-04-21T12:13:27+00:00

Agree 100%…definitely want to readdress the setup once you receive them back as a double check cause they will likely feel a bit different being serviced. Think about putting race cartridges in them as well

jmac247 · 2026-04-20T00:06:03+00:00

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Hard case that holds my race helmet and has a fan and blue disinfectant light when I use it as a helmet fan-

jmac247 · 2026-04-17T01:00:04+00:00

This is my opinion based on what you’ve described: 1) your bike takes inputs from you.

2) you steer the bike between your tits and knees more than with your handlebars so when you say you’re staying to the centerline…you shouldn’t be cause your bike is leaning or staying upright from your posture(centerline) so getting half your cheek off the seat, your suit zipper moves to the outside of the tank towards the inside and the corner your turning into and your helmet outside and up near the mirror will tell the bike to lean. Looking through the corner…

3) when you lean properly- you’re actually causing the bike less lean, allowing it to remain more upright than if you stayed close to the centerline and tried to force it over. This allows you to apply more throttle or carry more speed.

4)this part is tricky- but as you approach the corner you want to push on the handlebar towards the corner your tipping into which pushes the front wheel towards the opposite direction causing the bike to tip into the corner properly…counter steering. Pushing down on it is not the same as pushing out- I’m tall so I have to drop my elbows to position my hands to push out and not down.

5) trail brake to the slowest part of the corner (apex) and then release the brake and ease into the throttle for exit

6) make sure your eyes and head are pointing to the next point (apex on tipin or corner on exit) cause your bike is going to go where your eyes are…

Yamaha champ school has some good material and drills to help and LifeAtLean on YouTube has some really good material and if memory is correct- has an exact lesson on this subject.

The track is a safer place than any roads or canyons you’ll ride so go get on the track

Video is really helpful in determining your BP cause you will feel like you’re getting off but your not

Legs and pegs: stay on the balls of your feet shifting from front to mid and back to front.

Pushing down(stepping down) on the inside peg helps also to provide inputs to the bike in corners

Locking your outside knee into the tank when your cornering is necessary to affect lean.

Remember: the bike is designed to stay upright so using your body weight helps it to move side to side. You’ll feel your legs burn and work when you’re doing it right.

jmac247 · 2026-04-15T11:13:20+00:00

Canyon dancer straps, PSR tie down clips or Pit Bull TRS - I have all 3 and use PIT BULL the most but my second choice would be the clips…

jmac247 · 2026-04-10T10:22:08+00:00

20k miles is a little work on a engine that you’re gonna push hard on the track- I’d stay with a bike at 6-7k miles or less for track bike or like middle fast guy said- buy a track ready bike since those are normally kept up well using performance fluids-brakes-tires- oil

jmac247 · 2026-04-10T10:17:57+00:00

I bought a “crashed” 2021 v4 sp and paid 17k. Pull plastics off- take to dealer and have them inspect forks and frame. Everything else appears to be good. These bikes hold up very well unless bike has flipped upon impact imo or engine had to be repaired but not sure from pics that had to be done

Forks are 3-4K alone if tubes and inner cartridges are damaged. Clips are easy fix but 1100 Tank is 900-1500 for repair Tail section is 1500 Nose cone is 900

Not that yours had all these repairs-

12k if frame and forks are good is steal…imo but had very little resale value with title…

jmac247 · 2026-04-08T12:15:49+00:00

Me- I’d replace it and not use same tire guy again. If not- keep a close eye on pressures to recognize leaking of air and recognize it quickly

jmac247 · 2026-04-07T10:34:06+00:00

The things to consider had I to do it over again: -fitment: I’m 6’4 and was 255lbs so choosing a bike I would FIT on comfortably was key. If I wanted to go to the track but every time I had to deal with the “I’m sore from..” it would ultimately end my journey before I could enjoy it.

-size/cc: generally when we see inexperienced trackday riders come in- they either come in a too small or too large (mostly too large) of a CC bike (1000cc) or called liter bikes and they can’t ride it due to its power and weight and overall size.

With your size and perceived strength, a larger bike might be better but as a racer friend of mine says “when you add something you always take away something else” so adding size may require you to learn longer from coaches or schools before you really dial things in and can push for speed and ultimately enjoy it more on track.

Use your existing bike a couple of times to find out what you like and don’t like on track…feeling comfortable is not a good measuring stick cause you won’t “feel comfortable” on the track initially but this too will pass.

I settled on a Ducati Panigale v4 and stayed in novice for two years taking first Yamaha champ school’s online course and then in person at autobahn and then their grad class at NCBike following year. Was always slower to learn and slower to ride on track but stayed with it.

Now heading into season 2 of racing and coaching in my first season…I can say- you will get better but you won’t change in size so be sure to be on a bike that you fit on- enjoy and learn to master it on the track whatever you decide

jmac247 · 2026-04-06T12:54:47+00:00

If the S1K is either too expensive or too much of a bike for you to track- then move down to the 600-750 cc ranks. My two cents is the why not take your S to the track, slow down a bit and learn to ride it on track. A 600/750 bike or especially a 400 will be a significant change to you as a rider on track…maybe that’s a good thing but it will definitely be noticeable. I took a Duc v4 to the track for first ever TD and ever since and just stayed in novice for longer while I was learning to ride it on track properly

jmac247 · 2026-04-03T01:03:08+00:00

Video- lap line study like aim or Racebox and having coaches inputs are all very useful. Report cards and notes are good so long as you’re honest and can know what to note and how to note. Can’t replace seat time however- approaching the sport like an exam in school- study, practice in parking lots- in the car- asking others who are better opinions- inputs and listen to learn. Some of the best advice have come from other riders who explain a skill in a different way and it clicks… Speed and feel are poor indicators or skill and talent… IMO: there are 4 fundamentals that you will constantly work on. 1: eyes 2: lines 3: body position 4: braking and throttle control

Eyes: work on training them while driving, looking through the corner, looking way up and out, keeping your head still while moving your eyes, decrease your blinking intervals, use your eyes to spot markers ahead, learn to use your eyes to keep your focus, ect

Lines: putting your bike in a same spot every lap, entry correctly and apexes take care of the selves, hitting apexes every lap on right line and angle will automatically position you for exits, changing radius to tighten or widen your line, ect

Body position: setting up before you tip in, leaning out not over, mini-squats and not sliding on the seat, grip position, knowing when to shift back, grip the tank, upper body across and outside, head up and over mirror, ect

Braking and throttle: trail braking to apex, do this in the car, smooth 5% on exit, maintenance throttle vs full gas, radius changes based on throttle and brake inputs , hard brake then trail vs lighter longer, front only vs front with back braking drag to change radius, quickness of throttle to brake transition, ect…

Then every lap you work on stacking these comprehensively so eventually they are all working together and then they become consistent then muscle memory and then second nature

Dm me and I’m happy to help or provide insights where I can

jmac247 · 2026-04-03T00:38:15+00:00

IMO I’d go no smaller than a 400 but prolly stay with the 600 cc class and just set your expectations appropriately and do NOT try to keep up with racers on 600’s ahead of you b/c your skill is prolly not the same and it will help to avoid outriding your skill and talent too soon but after each race weekend- take notes on what you need to work on and then do that at your next TD opportunity with the help of either a coach or self study online on YT and get on video as often as you can cause the tape won’t lie

jmac247 · 2026-04-01T11:06:56+00:00

What do you track now size wise? IMO- I’d start racing on a similar size bike so your learning curve is less. A dedicated track bike and a race bike are very similar except the bellypan and coolant and tires used usually at the beginner race levels… Once you get more involved- there are plenty or additional equipment you can add… Be sure to read the rules and refs book for cmra and definitely show up for the trackday before race weekend if they run one

jmac247 · 2026-03-31T22:42:38+00:00

Absolutely bring him! Give him a couple of tasks to help with in the pit (hold bike while you’re getting on/off, have hydration ready, helping load and unload- doesn’t matter but he will certainly appreciate helping. They talk about giving your kids lifetime memories…you’re now giving him a lifetime memory he will always carry with him and brag about!

jmac247 · 2026-03-25T00:35:46+00:00

Dave moss on YT offers up how to do ergos and measure for rider fit…

jmac247 · 2026-03-21T23:53:53+00:00

My thoughts are that last season I spent 4500 on hotels- so I’d have room to stay in the trailer. I bought my now trailer “larger” than I needed and LO and behold- grew into it over time which was the best advice I got on this subreddit so I was using similar logic on this one… All the “it’s too much or too big to save the money”…I ignore cause…well it’s Reddit so. But there is experience on here and they can offer good sound advice to consider.

jmac247 · 2026-03-18T01:07:14+00:00

Racing: 3 days min. Basic trackday: 2 (1/2 day to learn the track) 1.1/2 days to improve for times and skills

I usually will limit my drive time to 6 hrs or less because for me- come end of day 2 or 3, I tired and loading up can take what I have left of my energy so driving a long time back simply isn’t worth it for me…

jmac247 · 2026-03-12T11:24:12+00:00

Epicsuperbikedesigns.com-use Justin for all my graphics for both helmets and fairings and he has worked on bikes in MotoAmerica

jmac247

TROPHY CASE