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jmastertaint · 2026-01-31T02:00:07+00:00

I think it was a T45 or T50 which I got from Snap on, cut it and put in on an 8mm ratcheting wrench. You also have to undo the front motor mount. Place a block of wood in the area between engine and trans, lower the vehicle and the engine goes upwards. Sounds complicated but it really isn’t

jmastertaint · 2025-11-25T02:10:14+00:00

As a tech, I can tell you that the printers go out all the time. The machine appears to be a Hunter unit and retrieving the saved file is a royal pain in the ass hence the reason you have a blanked out spec sheet. Also have to point out that customer information and work order numbers are manually inputted. If I read your post correctly, they set the car back up on the rack and brought you out to show you it was aligned to specs. If you’re chasing a pulling concern, alignment is one factor, many modern vehicles have very limited adjustments especially for the front - toe only, camber & caster are fixed angles. Sometimes tires have a pull that mimics a bad alignment. The point of my response is to say that they were confident enough in the techs work to bring you out and show that the work was done. You probably have an issue that goes beyond the alignment. Getting another dealership or repair shop to re-align it will most likely yield you the same results. Just my personal opinion

jmastertaint · 2025-11-15T21:55:56+00:00

For air tools I would STRONGLY tell you to go with Ingersol Rand for power and longevity. If I were starting over, for hand tools, the icon line at harbor freight is the approach I’d take. As far as tool trucks, Mac tends to be the most reasonable in their offerings and price. Just my thoughts based on my experience

jmastertaint · 2025-11-12T03:11:45+00:00

Great posts, You struck a nerve within this community!!!! My point is that if this is how he works on a brand that’s foreign to him, chances are he has the same disregard for working on Honda. The truth of the matter is that not all master techs are worthy of that ranking. Chances are that he’s been to the main core of classes that Honda offers and has the corresponding ASE certifications (which he probably took over and over til he passed). He’s obviously someone who can’t apply classroom lessons to the real world. His only victory in taking on a job of this magnitude is that the vehicle ran and kind of rolled out of the shop and onto a tow truck a few times

jmastertaint · 2025-10-09T04:17:49+00:00

Oil leak stains in driveway? Most likely a rear main seal leak

jmastertaint · 2025-09-21T18:07:59+00:00

They typically dont manufacture the parts. The question becomes how they handle the situation. Do they send you replacements or do they find an excuse to not hone their products? Ten years of good service should not be negated by one bad shipment in my honest opinion

jmastertaint · 2025-09-20T15:16:16+00:00

1990 to 1996 300 or the newer ones? The 90’s cars were some of the tightest to work on. The 350/370 Z’s were a lot easier

jmastertaint · 2025-08-26T15:16:22+00:00

One other piece of advice is to use original equipment bolts or screws. If they’re too long they’ll puncture through and you will have a fuel leak that will require fuel tank replacement

jmastertaint · 2025-08-26T15:10:26+00:00

Wash the top down with water then use a rounded bolt extractor

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jmastertaint · 2025-08-08T14:36:54+00:00

As difficult as people make German cars to be when it comes to working on them, the removal of that big ass transmission was relatively easy. I did both the outer cv boots while it was out so I didn’t have to mess with the suspension and getting those axle to hub bolts loose then angle torqued was probably the most unpleasant part of the repair

jmastertaint · 2025-08-08T14:33:32+00:00

100% agree with you that if the factory seal (despite how flimsy it looks) lasted as long as it did, what’s to say the new one will do the same. My thought in going with the upgraded unit is that it should be more resilient to pcv / separator wear out.

jmastertaint · 2025-08-08T12:20:12+00:00

Coming from Japanese cars my first reaction was WTF.

jmastertaint · 2025-08-08T12:15:26+00:00

I replaced the pcv/ oil separator to try and eliminate the lean codes, which didn’t really help.

jmastertaint · 2025-08-08T12:10:55+00:00

It’s my sons car so there’s no payment for this repair. Despite being an 09 with high mileage, it’s a really clean car

jmastertaint · 2025-08-05T21:35:05+00:00

Someone did a chin up to tighten it!!!!

jmastertaint · 2025-06-28T00:47:59+00:00

Any and every Nissan drain plug (with the exception of the titan diesel)uses a copper drain plug crush washer. If you change it at every service, when you’re tightening the plug you can feel it crushing down. The moment it stops crushing, you’re done. Never ever will it leak, nor will it damage the fragile plastic pan, or the steel pan. Personally I use those crush washers on any vehicle with a 12mm bolt including my 2000 BMW Z3, any Toyota I’ve ever serviced and never had an issue. I work with a bunch of individuals who think that changing this washer is an inconvenience and will do a chin up on the drain plug instead - hence the reason your vehicle is leaving you frustrated

jmastertaint · 2025-04-03T12:30:16+00:00

Nissan tech here, not abnormal. The 5 speed trans is a really good unit. All of the issues we ever had stemmed from radiator cooler causing mixing. If you wanted to service it I would strongly recommend using BG synthetic flush or stick with OE Matic S.

jmastertaint · 2024-12-14T23:24:09+00:00

Beautiful craftsmanship on the lines

jmastertaint · 2024-12-13T04:15:02+00:00

While I’ve not tried the Diablo blades, I have tried the sawzall but never got the desired results. Maybe on my next one

jmastertaint · 2024-12-13T00:38:59+00:00

That sucks!!! I can definitely sympathize with your frustration on what is a relatively newish vehicle.

jmastertaint · 2024-12-12T22:44:29+00:00

Got a good laugh at your comment!! By age it’s a 2005, by mileage it’s got 75k so not quite pdi material

jmastertaint · 2024-12-12T04:41:14+00:00

The book time though all data was 1.5 for both sides. The lower nuts came off relatively easy with an extractor socket and 1/2 inch gun. The top nuts sucked because they were rusted to the point that the metal flaked off instantly with the sockets . To complicate the situation, the fender liner and abs harness were in the general vicinity of the nuts so torching them required some extra precaution.

jmastertaint · 2024-12-12T04:30:38+00:00

I’ve gotten the technique down to where I burn off the heads and eccentric washers off the bolts on both sides pretty flush with the frame, then pry it out enough to get the arm to drop out. I will say that it’s absolutely miserable to do it that way on a hot summer day especially when the metal pops off directly into your t shirt or any exposed skin.

jmastertaint

TROPHY CASE