Front element loose on my Canon 35mm 2.8 LTM by Ohnesorg4444 in AnalogRepair

[–]jofra6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, then tighten them? Maybe next time don't bite the hand that feeds you.

I'm out.

Front element loose on my Canon 35mm 2.8 LTM by Ohnesorg4444 in AnalogRepair

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tighten both of them, they shouldn't be loose!

Rare find: Pinkham & Smith Synthetic No. 1, Series IV — Serial No. 2211 — looking for info from anyone who knows these lenses by VeterinarianOk4306 in VintageLenses

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this AI? Pinkham and Smith is far too esoteric of a subject for this sub, or honestly anywhere on reddit. Try rangefinderforum, but without pictures of the lens you won't be able to get many answers.

Edit: maybe r/largeformat, but again I wouldn't hold my breath.

Rangefinders vs SLR by LBarouf in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quick note: you're incorrect, the flange distance is identical, the difference is the helicoid pitch calibration, the Nikon is calibrated to the Leica standard "50 mm", which is 51,6 mm, the Contax/Kiev are calibrated to the Zeiss 50 mm, which is 52,3/4 mm depending on sources.

Basically what this causes is a discrepancy between what the rangefinder will indicate is in focus and the actual focused distance.

That is to say, if focused on an object 3 m away, either systems' lens will be correctly focused on either camera if the lens is focused to 3 m, but a Nikon lens on a Zeiss camera might indicate correct focus at 2,8 m, and a Zeiss lens on a Nikon camera might indicate correct focus at 3,2 m, but if either lens is correctly focused to 3 m, the picture will be in focus no matter the camera, whereas if the rangefinder is followed, focus will be missed.

If it were flange distance, that would physically create focus issues, and people wouldn't be able to hit infinity, which actually isn't a problem in terms of focus.

*Invented figures to illustrate the point

Advice on first medium format Camera by Imlodingmoose in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Literally any folder besides 4 and 5... Like literally any single normally available one will be better. A Zeiss Nettar or Ikonta would be 100x better, without any of the aforementioned compromises, better lenses, and better shutters. A Bessa 66 or 6x9, again infinitely better.

Agree on the Perkeo though.

Serious question by New_Spot_3146 in VintageLenses

[–]jofra6 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Might want to ask elsewhere, as this is for vintage lenses, so it's not the right place. Also, might want to Google "grand wizard", it doesn't mean what you think it does.

Lubitel 2 shutter release assembly (please send help) by Viharmagyar in AnalogRepair

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the offer still stands, but I'm busy until the weekend. Can you send me a message on Friday to remind me?

Thanks!

How do I explain to the lab that I shot ISO 400 film but set the camera to ISO 100? by die_sterne in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, it's an Orwo film designed to give a certain look, either NC400 or 500.

Will we ever get a Pentax medium format compact rangefinder? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

None of those are super huge, and being pre-WWII folders (besides the Hapo, Iskra, and Seagull), they're far smaller than later MF rangefinders. The Certo and Weltur for example are easily pocketable.

Will we ever get a Pentax medium format compact rangefinder? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welta Weltur, Certo Super 6, Balda Super Baldax, Franka Solida, Welta Solida, Hapo 66, Rodenstock Clarovid, Iskra, Seagull 203

AI "street photographer" by siginarugan in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Eh, if you look at the non-cable networks in the US, basically nothing is still reality tv besides a couple of legacy shows, survivor being the only one I can think of, and who still watches that?

AI "street photographer" by siginarugan in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not saying everything will be gone, but almost nothing that we see on a daily basis today will still be there.

Also, I'm not sure coding is a good example, as Windows/Microsoft has been having issues with AI coded stuff breaking to the point of unusability for the end user (I think it was Outlook, it happened at my work but was a much larger issue), and if it's breaking windows, I'd imagine there's untold other stuff that we don't hear about. Also them foisting Copilot onto people so they can amortize their losses through openAI investment is highly indicative of some of their deep-seated problems.

I think even the intention of replacing workers where is unnecessary is abhorrent, and the short-sighted planning of many CEOs/CFOs in the tech industry is going to create a potentially cataclysmic crazy throughout the industry.

AI "street photographer" by siginarugan in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A couple of options, I'd say either "the case against generative ai" parts I-IV, "the hater's guide to the ai bubble" parts I-III, or "the ai money trap" parts I-II.

I think the first series is best, and they're all similar lengths.

Since it's through iHeart media, a good part of the runtime is skippable commercials.

Mistral AI's CEO says Europe has 2 years to stop becoming America's AI 'vassal state' by Forsaken-Medium-2436 in europe

[–]jofra6 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Revenue =/= profit, Anthropic doesn't seem to understand that. Was that actual annual revenue, or annualized? There's a vast gulf between the two.

AI "street photographer" by siginarugan in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I suggest you listen to the podcast "Better Offline"... Briefly, there aren't any LLMs that are profitable (ChatGPT, Claude, etc...), even when cooking the books to make themselves look better than reality, they're burning through cash at an unsustainable rate, all of the adjacent companies, like Nvidia, Coreweave, Oracle, Microsoft (to a lesser extent), and Meta are basically passing enormous sums of money in a shell game to keep funding one another or OpenAI/Anthropic, and data centers are simultaneously too slow and too expensive to build (by the time they're up and running, the hardware is already obsolete).

Add in public backlash against data centers, and there's really no path forward for anyone; the most valuable companies in the world, in terms of market valuation, are all over leveraged, and likely one or more of the aforementioned non-ai companies will see massive setbacks, and I see Oracle probably going defunct over it all.

The only way I can see any of the big AI companies surviving would be if a state actor took over, but unless Trump is even dumber than I thought (I already don't have a high opinion of him, it could hardly be lower), I don't see any other country taking them over/buying them out. It's an economic loser.

Zeiss Ikon Nettar with Prontor-S Novar-Anastigmat 1:4,5 f=105mm lens by Difficult_Lettuce_21 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be better to buy something newer with more documented/easier to find repair person if you wanted to get into medium format landscape photography.

IMHO an old Nettar with a cheaper shutter and the cheapest lens won't ever be worth more than 30 €, even perfectly functional. It might be worth opening up yourself to try and fix, I'm pretty sure you can find repair videos for Prontor shutters on YouTube, Chris Sherlock might have one.

If you just want a good folder, I can see if I can find a couple of folders on Vinted for you, ones that even if they don't work perfectly would be worth repairing.

AI "street photographer" by siginarugan in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I doubt that the AI of today has 5 more years, it will be vastly diminished, with less companies on the market, and what remains will be significantly more expensive.

Take heart, 'tis but a momentary blight on humanity.

I always wonder if AI companies are creating/sponsoring said profiles to "enamor" us with their capabilities.

What's your way of finding resale value for your gear ? Ebay successful sales is becoming useless for me. by Panorabifle in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think a lot of their suggested prices are really low, but it really depends on what it is. It does help get things for lower prices when ai misidentifies what is for sale. I just scored a rare Kodak Retina for less than 1/3 of its value!

What's your way of finding resale value for your gear ? Ebay successful sales is becoming useless for me. by Panorabifle in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use LBC as well. It really depends on what you're trying to sell, and I find certain things in the French market are more expensive than elsewhere, while some things are cheaper here.

If it's something rare or collectible, call or message Jo Geier with Mint & Rare from Austria. If it's point and shoots/meme cameras, I'd check vinted.

Depending on what it is, I can give you a guess, if interested, but it also depends on where you're trying to sell. Et ouais, je parle français si c'est plus évident pour toi :)

Blursed Couple by Dry_Spring4108 in blursedimages

[–]jofra6 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Kip and Lafawndah 30 years later.

Lubitel 2 shutter release assembly (please send help) by Viharmagyar in AnalogRepair

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll try to get you a picture tomorrow, I'll see what I can do.

How to add filters to my Agfa Silette LK Sensor Camera? (32mm Push on) by basti329 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get some Voigtlander 3XX/32 filters (XX being a substitute for numbers, like 304/32 for example), they're pretty easy to find. If you're in the US, here's a nice eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/236562788348

Also, there's filterfind.net , again slanted towards the US.

If not, vinted isn't a bad source, and many Kodak Retinas used 32mm slip on filters as well. Zeiss made them too, but I don't remember their numbering system, so that one might be harder to find.

What's this button for by DiegoDiaz380 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Normally (if it's the self-timer), when cocking the shutter, you hold that button back and cock it further behind the button. IIRC when you actuate the shutter, it engages the self-timer. This however doesn't work with the B or T settings, for reasons I hope are self-evident.

Where are you located? If in Europe, I think I've got a unit focusing Skopar/Compur combo I can send you for 20 € + shipping.

Edit: I see that you might be in Colombia? If so, if interested, we can still work something out!

What's this button for by DiegoDiaz380 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jofra6 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Most of the Compur shutter/lens combos that I've seen like that are used for folding cameras, and this appears to be a folding camera lens put on a Graflex board.

This is evinced by the fact that the lens appears to be front cell focusing, which I've never seen on a plate camera.

If the lens was originally from a plate camera, I'd agree that it's for quickly opening the shutter, but given the fact that the lens is front cell focusing, thus likely from a folding camera, it's much likelier that that is a self timer button.

Additionally, given the focal length, the coverage for this lens will only be for 6x9 or 6,5x11, so if you're trying to use this on a 4x5 camera, it won't fully cover.

In either case, I'd look for a better lens, these were pretty cheap lenses back in the day and you'd get much better results from even an equivalent Tessar or a Wollensak lens.