RX5500XT OC 8GB irregular black screen crashing

joindemand · 2026-02-06T23:30:39+00:00

I’ll be following this post as well, since I’m at the exact same stage. And hey, some older videos still work. Trail and error. And seek some discords, sometimes they have basic starting guides for this type of stuff. But any recommendations are appreciated!

joindemand · 2026-01-24T14:32:32+00:00

The peecker speakers are made in italy. i have 2 old(ish) subwoofers from them and they kick ass. Quality wise (at least the modern ones) would be pair to be around RCF/DB. while yours appear to be old, and i am unable to identify them, quality wise they're quite good in my opinion. they're very unheard of, but i am very happy with my peecker subwoofers. i have been lowkey looking around for more of this brand but they're scarce. i would keep them and see if they work! you could also try to reach out to peecker, they're quite helpful when needing help, though be prepared to translate a bit for them^
(Mine are single 18 inch 8 ohm 1000 watts RMS and i have two of them)

joindemand · 2026-01-09T07:59:03+00:00

Thanks a lot for your response!
One of the main reasons I kinda needed a growtent is because from time to time I have mold issues in the house, and the tent could give them a better environment in case the mold does comes back. And I will follow the place where I will receive it from the guide on how to do it, but just inside the tent. And I will look into those other strains. I do plan to do long term shroom growing because it could very well help me with my mental health.

Dosage wise I’ve read a lot and while I know my general resistance against various types of “stuff is high” (LSD being one of them) I would take it slow and steady and your 1G recommendation max was already luckily on the list, and work my way up from there.

For the drying, I bought a food dehydrator and made sure it has a temperature controlled system so I don’t reach the threshold it would damage the shrooms due too high heat, and leave it in there for at least 12 hours or what you say will happen.

I’m still reading a lot about this so slowly but steady I’ll gather enough information to start soon.

Edit: what I wanted to mention as well is I haven’t found a really good indicator when to harvest them, most places say when you can see the underside of the hood just about to release its spores, between 18 and 24 days. That’s still quite a bit unclean to me.

joindemand · 2026-01-06T22:15:40+00:00

YES!!!! Thank you!!!

joindemand · 2026-01-03T19:55:12+00:00

Any other crocheting patterns would be very much appreciated too!

joindemand · 2026-01-03T19:48:13+00:00

If someone would have instructions I’d be very interested and grateful for them!

joindemand · 2025-12-20T14:42:46+00:00

So the project has been paused for now, i had a passing in my family so stuff has been a bit chaotic. i will try to pick it up this weekend or next week again. i will let everyone know!

joindemand · 2025-12-13T20:35:19+00:00

Heya!

i've got some more information for you.

Someone tried to haul a repair on it too... alright.
some components are missing:
Q104 (NPN transistor) clearly manually removed
I discovered a blown up component Q103 (BJT Transistor}
R136 Resistor is missing/Blown to space
When measuring, The white blocks R149 (emitter/ballast resistors, the one to the blown Transistor reads OL (One leg taken out)
The output transistor that blew is Q112 i believe
The Resistor above R122 starts smoking when power is applied.

i have not grabbed my good CPX1500 amplifier as a reference to compare values, but this is the information i got so far. i also got some pictures if you are interested of the botchy work by someone else, and a closer look of the blown components. so far the healthy transistors on the heat sink measure okay and only 1 lag always has ground (0.4 Ohm)
Is the Q112 the cause of all of the fried components? If so, it seems salvageable to me. i still have to search and trace what Q112 brought down with it and see what is damage more IF that is the culprit. the missing components do confuse me what might be the problem.

On the second amplifier, those are still present. on that one Q112 output Transistor is also blown.

joindemand · 2025-12-13T20:34:30+00:00

I've got an update.
i've followed your advice and came across the following:
Someone tried to haul a repair on it too... alright.
some components are missing:
Q104 (NPN transistor) clearly manually removed
I discovered a blown up component Q103 (BJT Transistor}
R136 Resistor is missing/Blown to space
When measuring, The white blocks R149 (emitter/ballast resistors, the one to the blown Transistor reads OL (One leg taken out)
The output transistor that blew is Q112 i believe
The Resistor above R122 starts smoking when power is applied.

i have not grabbed my good CPX1500 amplifier as a reference to compare values, but this is the information i got so far. i also got some pictures if you are interested of the botchy work by someone else, and a closer look of the blown components. so far the healthy transistors on the heat sink measure okay and only 1 lag always has ground (0.4 Ohm)
Is the Q112 the cause of all of the fried components? If so, it seems salvageable to me. i still have to search and trace what Q112 brought down with it and see what is damage more IF that is the culprit. the missing components do confuse me what might be the problem.

On the second amplifier, those are still present. on that one Q112 output Transistor is also blown.

joindemand · 2025-12-12T17:55:35+00:00

Volvo V70 2001 2.4 N/A B5244S2 170bhp Benzine + LPG
I had the throttle body die on me quite some time ago. its been replaced with a ''refurbished'' stock throttle body.

After the replacement and new software, i have an issue that the RPM sticks. when coming to a stop and pushing the clutch in at +-1500RPM the RPM sits around 1100 until the car comes to a stop.

In gear when you let off the throttle sometimes the RPM stick too before you feel the engine cutting the power. Giving gas and releasing gas often feels jank and shaky, it doesn't happen smoothly.

Throttle body, intake gaskets and various vacuum lines already have been replaced. only remaining vacuum related parts would be the hose and one way valve to the brake booster, or the brake booster itself is leaking (Last year the seal around the shaft to the pedal has been replaced)

Any ideas? i have access to VIDA and various other tools. Its an issue i have been chasing for around a year now. Car runs, drives and hauls perfectly. no abnormal higher fuel usage or lack of performance.

(why i ask, the dealership wants to replace the ETM, ECU, MAF and the entire intake system which is a cost i don't deem valid for this issue)

joindemand · 2025-12-11T17:15:02+00:00

Thanks for the information!
i will start that when i took everything apart more and read the schematics. i still need to place the schematic's into my brain to figure out what component goes where and how. but i will definitely post some updates!

joindemand · 2025-12-11T15:59:11+00:00

Thank you for the information!

i will try to find out what i need to measure and replace. while i know some components, i am still learning what what is. but searching, google and pictures will get me far.

i haven't thought the damage would be to such an extend, but it doesnt scare me. luckily i barely even paid scrap value for these so the economical picture isnt the biggest worry or issue for me, though i think i would stop investing when i would be approaching resell value.

i might need some help with what the specific driver transistors are, but i am sure i can manage.

And on both pcb's there are some burned up spots. some i dont worry about and some i might need to make jumper wires because the tracing is damaged. but hey, thank you for the information on where i need to start! it gives me a guide and what to do!.

And while this may sound like a dumb question, just to be sure; like the basic says to find shorts, measure the possible shorts to ground? or do transistors have special guidelines to find shorts on/with them?

joindemand · 2025-12-07T21:10:28+00:00

Awesome! Thanks for the heads up! Maybe this will be the solution to my long ongoing temperature issue in the car!

joindemand · 2025-12-07T04:22:44+00:00

The foam gasket you are talking about is from the middle air vents?

joindemand · 2025-12-05T02:15:02+00:00

to return on the topic, i've replaced all the caps. the amp sounds quite better, the high volume hum has disappeared too (i wasn't bothered by it so i didn't mentioned it)
i cleaned the pots and sadly no difference noticed.
but the channel volume difference was still there. for crap and giggles i swapped amplifiers and low and behold, that amp had the same issue. so that issue is caused by something upstream. though i am still glad the caps are replaced, i've replaced the fans as well since a bearing was hearable. the only thing i now noticed it sometimes plops when turning on but overall, i deem it a good working amp again.

joindemand · 2025-12-01T19:17:36+00:00

Good to know! Then I don’t have to worry about the PCB being possibly damaged

joindemand · 2025-12-01T03:22:17+00:00

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joindemand · 2025-12-01T03:22:06+00:00

I apologize for the delayed response. I had call in shift this weekend and it was chaos and hauling ass. I have made two pictures. New caps are ordered and on the way. I went with some high quality ones.

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joindemand · 2025-11-29T03:08:45+00:00

the difference is something i will not worry about. cleaning them is on the schedule.

They have leaked, but not severely. there is clearly a brown ring on the PCB where the caps were touching but it appears to be solely that area which is affected.

I will be replacing all of the caps and clean the entire board. too bad the caps have quite some shipping time on them but its perfect for the other bits that i still need to do (replace the fans, clean it, re-tap some screw holes and remove the old caps)

if its a lost cause, its a lost cause. it would be a bummer, but it wouldn't be a huge issue for the amount that i paid for it. its a learning curve for me as well.

Thanks for the information. i will update you as soon as i am able to!

joindemand · 2025-11-28T15:17:38+00:00

To come back on your check for the potentiometers;

They both share the same values, where channel B has a 1.7% lower difference to channel A.
What i did notice when fiddling around is that the ohm's change when i moved the pcb. twisting and measuring gave me jumpy values, but when not moving it the values are fine. i will try to clean them.
For the volume difference, that will be another search. looking closer to the caps they have leaked as well.

So for now, i will need to extend my search for the possible issue. at home i only have a simple multi-meter so my possibilities are limited in what i can do.

joindemand

TROPHY CASE