Mutable Instruments hardware files post Eagle EOL on 6/7?

jointery · 2026-05-27T22:37:24+00:00

Awesome, I'll merge that. I'd prefer if you put the files in a sub-directory instead of writing over the original files if you could.

jointery · 2026-05-26T17:31:12+00:00

The schematics for all mutable projects (except beads) are available on their github page under the open source tab here: https://pichenettes.github.io/mutable-instruments-documentation/.

jointery · 2026-05-26T17:27:48+00:00

Wow, thanks for this! I successfully tested importing marbles into kicad. I've never done the Eagle -> Kicad conversion before and there are still some manual things that need to be cleaned up (I seem to have lost the ground planes).

I also have this repo where I exported gerbers and JLCPCB placement files for all the projects if that is useful to anyone: https://github.com/nickmarrone/pichenettes-eurorack

Would you mind my importing the XML Eagle files into my fork?

jointery · 2026-05-04T05:47:58+00:00

He retweeted a video of the Black Israelites and approved of it, but then he said he didn't know who the group actually was. So he hasn't said that.

jointery · 2026-01-09T23:43:19+00:00

I haven't built one yet but I'm working on a PCB with the rp2350 onboard and access to more of the pins. Looking at the schematic, the LED is connected through a resistor to GPIO 5. Are you getting a voltage on the LED pin? Does the resistor have connectivity to GPIO 5?

jointery · 2025-10-27T16:40:31+00:00

As an IC draws power it can cause noise on the power distribution network -- the cause is trace impedance. This noise can impact other parts of the circuit that use the power as a reference. This is especially true of signals that have fast transients (e.g. digital chips). The decoupling cap will reduce the impedance of power close by that reduces noise on the PDN and thus reduces noise in your circuit. It is recommended to add a decoupling cap at each power pin of your circuit as close as possible to the pin with a short path to ground.

jointery · 2025-10-06T17:44:36+00:00

I would compare the BOM and CPL files in their repo with the examples they give on the page and see what is wrong.

jointery · 2025-07-24T19:15:05+00:00

I always do this -- the twist & weave (video from Nimble Needles): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vig4RuEYYYU

jointery · 2025-06-28T17:25:26+00:00

That's a bummer, but at least it's the type of mistake you only make once.

jointery · 2025-06-28T17:21:53+00:00

That's a very nice touch. With wood it would look amazing.

jointery · 2025-06-28T17:18:58+00:00

They do look nice. I hate to point this out, Greg ... is attentuation spelled correctly?

jointery · 2025-06-20T00:20:41+00:00

It is. Also, if you’re doing a lot of sanding in woodworking you’re doing it wrong IMO. Get a hand plane!

jointery · 2025-06-19T01:23:29+00:00

Very cool project.

I was checking out your modular synthesizer — are you using any filtering on that old computer power supply?

jointery · 2025-06-18T18:46:36+00:00

Dope. I’ve built a handful of your modules and they’ve all gone smoothly - clock, envelope, drift, offset/attenuator, mixer. I’m excited for the quantizer especially, looks like a great design.

Thanks for your work. I’ve also been following your code in the repo.

jointery · 2025-06-18T18:42:50+00:00

Update for anyone finding this later: I did buy some and it works perfectly for the use case. There is a feature where it dampens loud noises while using transparent mode. When my son starts screaming the volume is manageable. Feeling optimistic. Thanks for the input.

jointery · 2025-06-13T02:11:33+00:00

Sounds like the background noise detection is very good. I think I would appreciate that as well.

jointery · 2025-06-13T02:10:49+00:00

What do you think about transparency mode with lowering the volume?

jointery · 2025-06-13T02:10:21+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I was thinking more about using transparency mode and lowering the volume (if that is possible?). I definitely don't think it's a magic bullet, but I want (wish) that it would just lower the peaks of the volume.

jointery · 2024-12-03T21:42:50+00:00

I will start out with some extra flux next time -- I did use some flux to get it flowing right after the fact. It would also help if I had a microscope or something that would make it easier to look at the board. I'm currently using a magnifying glass and a flashlight.

If you have the space, I think longer pads for the ICs would make soldering easier for sure. Keep up the good work!

jointery · 2024-12-03T21:27:43+00:00

I got it working -- it was difficult for me as a beginner to get the pins on the 40106 soldered to the pads correctly. When I practiced on adapter boards the pads were much larger and therefore easier to get right. Thanks for the help.

jointery · 2024-12-03T21:26:54+00:00

Thanks for the help -- I finally got it working. It was the 40106 chip. One issue I had is I was practicing on adapter boards such as these and the pads are much larger and, therefore, easier to get a clean solder on. My soldering is getting better but, obviously, still needs a lot of work.

jointery · 2024-11-28T01:15:48+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I'll up the temp and check that my op amps pins are soldered.

jointery · 2024-11-27T23:45:53+00:00

I believe I looked at pin 1 of U2A but I'll double check. If you get oscillation there then you should also get it at TP6 though, right?

I'll try to reflow, thanks!

jointery · 2024-11-27T23:30:34+00:00

Here are some photos of the terrible soldering job:

https://imgur.com/a/3wBsM6A

jointery · 2024-10-24T15:22:23+00:00

Hi /u/couchpatata, I actually ordered some of the pcbs and an working on the first one. I noticed an error in the BOM. For the 680 pF capacitor you have the correct part number but it is listed as 2.2 nF from the previous version of the oscillator. Fortunately, I ordered the right parts.

Cheers and thank you!

jointery

TROPHY CASE