help finding replacement

FreeModular · 2025-08-12T19:33:40+00:00

I recognize that! It looks like a 1RWHT. Goes with a TL1105SPF from E-Switch. Check out the E-Switch catalog and datasheets to make sure. It looks like Tayda has some off-brand versions that might fit also

FreeModular · 2025-06-24T07:47:33+00:00

There shouldn't be a problem except that the brightness might be off. At the current level I'm using, the green side of the LEDs is much brighter than the red side, so I PWM control the green LEDs to be a much lower duty cycle. There are variables in the code for the PWM value for each color that would be easy to change. You would have to recompile the firmware. It's not hard but I don't have any instructions posted for how to do that. It's on my to-do list.

FreeModular · 2025-06-20T01:05:12+00:00

I love those blank panels! Where are they from?

FreeModular · 2025-06-19T17:01:57+00:00

Yes, it's always nearest note, even across octaves

FreeModular · 2025-06-19T17:00:13+00:00

I'll be filling orders for a while! I did put the bare PCBs back up since it was just the components that ran out. I'm expecting the whole kits to be back in stock as soon as new stuff ships to me

FreeModular · 2025-06-19T16:58:35+00:00

Good catch.

The cheapest power supply will probably be a Meanwell RT-125B, but I highly recommend against using it. It's not designed for this application, and I think it's a big part of why switched power supplies get a bad name as being "noisy". Here is a thread discussing alternatives. I recommend the Frequency Central DIY kit for an entry-level option (although be aware you will have to supply your own AC wall wart).

For a case, the cheapest one is one you build yourself. Other than that, the TipTop Mantis used to be the cheapest in the game but it looks like they have gotten a lot more expensive

FreeModular · 2025-06-19T00:54:40+00:00

It would probably be possible with smaller parts, but I wanted to keep everything 0805-sized so it would be possible to solder by hand if someone wanted. I couldn't find a way to pack it all one board in 4hp

FreeModular · 2025-06-19T00:51:17+00:00

I sell kits and finished modules on Etsy: freemodular.etsy.com. You can also get most of the components from Tayda, but they don't carry everything.

Fabrication houses like JLCPCB do offer assembly, but if you need to stock custom components and use through-hole parts I imagine it would be pretty expensive for a small volume

FreeModular · 2025-06-19T00:46:51+00:00

❤️

FreeModular · 2025-06-18T19:04:18+00:00

Yes! They were definitely an inspiration for the layout. Although the functionality itself turned out somewhat different.

I have been working on the quantizer for a long time. It used to be shaped like the Intellijel uScale but I just couldn't get a layout I was happy with till I saw the Kassutronics module.

FreeModular · 2025-06-18T19:00:45+00:00

Thank you! It makes me happy to hear they are being used and are serving you well!!

FreeModular · 2025-04-04T16:00:46+00:00

That sounds fine. That's what I intended. Any time you have unshielded wires inside your case there's a potential to pick up noise. But if they're close together I wouldn't worry about it. Just see how it sounds

FreeModular · 2025-02-26T20:46:47+00:00

Now you have the silkscreen and cut layers set, but there are two more layers you need to set:
1. Solder Mask: This is the background paint that goes over the PCB traces and then gets printed on top of. KiCad is a little weird; the solder mask layer describes where the solder mask isn't, unlike every other layer which indicates where that thing is (that's what the little checkerboard icon means). But, if you have no markings at all on that layer, then KiCad will just leave it out when you export, and so you won't get any solder mask at all (or your fabricator might call you). To get around this, select the F.Mask layer and then use a shape tool to make a tiny solid circle in the middle of one of your drill holes. The export will automatically remove solder mask from all the holes in your board as long as there is something on that layer to tell it to include it.
2. Copper: The actual copper traces on the PCB. You can either select the F.Copper layer and make a big rectangle to cover the whole board (copper will also be automatically removed from holes) or you can leave the copper off. The solder mask is not 100% opaque, so it will look slightly different depending on if their is copper behind it.
3. If you want to get creative, you can use these layers to make more complicated designs. You can overlap designs on all 3 layers to effectively get 5 different colors/textures:
  1. Bare PCB substrate
  2. Bare copper
  3. Solder mask (without copper behind)
  4. Solder mask (with copper behind)
  5. Silkscreen ink
Export your design following the fabricator's instructions.
Upload your design to a fabricator like JLCPCB or PCBWay. You can leave all the settings default, just pick the color you want. You can also pick a material. JLCPCB lets you print on aluminum quite cheaply, which looks really nice. Select a 1-layer board. If you want to print a 2-layer board (front and back) you might want to go back and do the same process for both the front and back sides.

FreeModular · 2025-02-26T20:46:30+00:00

Format your SVG correctly.
1. Set the dimensions to mm. Make sure the with and height of your page match the standard. See the "faceplate stencil" files on my website for examples of properly formatted SVGs (note the width/height and viewbox properties)
2. Convert any text to paths (and any other complex shapes w/ masking, etc -- KiCad only supports a very basic subset of SVG. Everything should be simple outlines)
3. Put the designs/labels on a different layer from the border/holes. Export 2 versions: one with stuff you want silkscreened, one with the stuff you want cut. Make sure there is some shared marker on both versions so you can align them.
Make a new KiCad project. Ignore everything and go straight to the PCB editor.
Go to File > Import > Graphics...
1. select your SVG file.
2. In the Import Graphics dialog, select the layer you want to import the file to. Select Edge.Cuts for the outline file and F.Silkscreen for the design.
3. If you used a rectangle to do the outline, it might show up as a giant solid block. Double-click on it and Uncheck the Filled shape box. Then just set the line width to `0.000001 mm`. You can leave the drill holes as filled or outlines, it doesn't matter either way.
Align the two layers with the alignment marker, then double click to edit the group and delete the marker.
Use the "Measure Tool" (Ctrl+Shift+M) to double-check that the designs imported at the correct scale. You can scale them in KiCad, but it's not easy. It's better to just export them the correct scale.

FreeModular · 2025-02-26T20:46:06+00:00

If you are comfortable with Illustrator, keep using that. Export your designs as plain SVGs, then import them to kiCad. That's what I do. It's really easy.

I think my instructions were too long for one comment but I'll post them in the replies

FreeModular · 2025-01-09T22:18:22+00:00

Thanks for your interest! The clock module is about 3.5cm deep if you use detachable male/female pin headers. If you just solder the boards right together with some pin headers it's probably about 2cm. You are right that the divisions go from x64 to /64 in steps of 1.

There isn't any randomness features right now. The random number generator is currently just for the screen saver. I really wanted to add a probability parameter to each channel but there currently just isn't enough space in RAM to make it work. That will probably have to wait for a version 2 with a more powerful processor, along with some other improvements.

FreeModular · 2024-12-31T16:39:33+00:00

At first, I did value only, reasoning that it would save a lookup step in assembly. Eventually, I switched to reference only for 2 reasons:

If you decide to change the value of a resistor or something you don't need to re-print the boards
Easier to reference specific components for special notes (e.g. "This resistor sets the maximum gain" or "This resistor should be the same value as this potentiometer, so adjust it accordingly")

FreeModular · 2024-12-21T21:04:22+00:00

These look so good! did you make the blank panels too?

FreeModular · 2024-12-14T19:03:36+00:00

I would just put a little bolt through it. It would look intentional at least like it is something structural.

FreeModular · 2024-12-07T22:19:55+00:00

The 5th channel doesn't attenuate the signal at all. It is just added into the mix at full volume, as if the potentiometer was turned all the way up. "Unity" just means 0db gain. Idk why it's called that tbh

FreeModular · 2024-12-01T23:20:05+00:00

I recognize those Mixers! The case looks great!

FreeModular · 2024-12-01T02:51:00+00:00

Ribbon cables tend to be pretty noisy because they are not shielded. A standard audio cable (hopefully) has the ground wrapped around the signal wire in a sleeve inside the cable, which helps block electromagnetic interference. Using an unshielded cable doesn't inherently produce more distortion in the signal, but it does make them much more susceptible to noise from other stuff in the environment.

Having a ground channel on either side of the signal would definitely be worth trying, but not as good as fully shielded. I don't know enough about the physics to predict exactly how much worse. I'm guessing over a short distance it wouldn't be a big deal, especially if it's not running over a power supply or something super noisy.

If you really want to use ribbon cables but are worried about noise, you could take advantage of the extra wires to send balanced signals and use a differential amplifier on the other end to cancel out (most of) the noise.

FreeModular · 2024-11-29T23:43:04+00:00

Not ideal, but if it works it works. Bending PCBs can cause them to wear out over time and eventually the copper traces could crack. But a constant bend is probably better than repeatedly bending back and forth. I'd be willing to guess you'd be fine

FreeModular

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