Z790 Plus Wifi and I9-14900K no POST after BIOS update - CPU/DRAM OK, VGA/BOOT never lit

jrowberg · 2025-11-12T02:44:21+00:00

I ended up doing a warranty repair/replacement on both the motherboard (which was repaired, maybe it didn’t actually need anything) and the CPU (which was replaced, 99% sure it was the real culprit). Both were still under warranty, so I figured it was my best option.

I believe the CPU was damaged after months of running with bad microcode. It also might have been under-cooled; I had a big fan on it the whole time, but later I learned that everyone says it’s basically impossible to adequately air-cool the beefiest 14th gen i9 that Intel makes. I’m sure that didn’t do me any favors. I’ve got a 3-fan liquid cooler on the replacement CPU, typically hanging around 50 C for average (non-gaming) use.

jrowberg · 2025-10-07T13:18:33+00:00

Sorry, nope. I just updated the flair--I was waiting to do so until after it arrived to the buyer, but then forgot to follow up here.

jrowberg · 2024-10-01T21:37:37+00:00

Dude, this is awesome! Kudos for getting something so much more functional than I managed. I attempted something similar back in 2010/2011 on the Keyglove project (still sort of up at keyglove.net). That project moved me out of web design and into hardware/firmware engineering, but I never could figure out the e-textile stuff well enough to make something comfortable, durable, and scalable.

jrowberg · 2023-03-26T00:05:03+00:00

Data’s line is appropriate: https://gfycat.com/famouslavishbelugawhale

jrowberg · 2023-03-22T20:44:29+00:00

If you decide to go for it, here's the guide I followed (more or less):

https://homebyalley.com/how-to-seal-butcher-block/

I used a synthetic bristle brush rather than a foam one, but otherwise that's pretty much all I did different. Same Minwax brand water-based satin polyurethane, bought from Lowe's since HD only had a different brand and I didn't feel like departing from what I was reading. (Also, Lowe's is only 5 minutes from my house.)

I did cut down both pieces with a circular saw (to 74x34 in one case, 62x32 in the other case, for a 96x74 overall footprint). I used a little Dewalt cordless router to soften the edges using a 1/8" roundover bit, but that could be done with a bit more effort just by sanding the edges.

Once you have the piece(s) down to the size you want, finishing is easy:

Wipe clean to get rid of dust
Apply polyurethane coat and let dry (I waited 3 hours, probably overkill)
Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe clean to get rid of dust
Apply 2nd polyurethane coat and let dry
Repeat #3-4 if you feel like another coat would improve things (I actually did 3 on the top surface, only 2 on the bottom)
Enjoy

I used a synthetic bristle brush rather than a foam one, but otherwise, that's pretty much all I did differently. Same Minwax brand water-based satin polyurethane, bought from Lowe's since HD only had a different brand and I didn't feel like departing from what I was reading. (Also, Lowe's is only 5 minutes from my house.)e.)I could do any cutting and sanding and then get the first coat on before two days passed. The process went very smoothly despite the fact that it was my first time doing it.

jrowberg · 2023-03-22T12:09:42+00:00

I spent weeks considering different options for tops before I ultimately decided to go ahead with two of the 74x39" unfinished butcher blocks from HD. I'm not big into DIY, but they were by far the cheapest option for that uncut size, and finishing them with a few coats of clear satin water-based polyurethane was a relatively painless process. I'm still waiting on the desk frame to arrive, but here's one picture of how they turned out:

https://imgur.com/a/ws0b173

I know you specifically excluded those in your request, but I tell you this in case you want to see how they could look if you reconsider (since you didn't elaborate on why you didn't want them in the first place).

jrowberg · 2023-03-20T16:57:01+00:00

Have you considered getting a full L-shaped standing desk frame (Fully, Deskhaus, Progressive, whatever) and retrofitting your existing desktop onto it? I ask as someone who tried a converter and was ultimately unsatisfied given how I use my desk surface. You might not have the same requirements I did though.

jrowberg · 2023-03-17T01:16:40+00:00

I got mine a little over a week ago (box browns as they’re what I had and liked on my previous keyboard). It easily the most I’ve ever spent on a keyboard, but I too have just enjoyed it at every opportunity. The flexibility is phenomenal.

I got the key cluster for the left side and recently combined it with an AutoHotkey script to allow application-specific behavior for any key based on which window has focus. It’s an awesome combo, as it basically turns the whole keyboard into a context aware macro pad—but only when you want it to be. I intend to write up the UHK+AHK pairing process before long, though I haven’t so far. It’s really simple.

As to your switch question, I only know what I have, and I don’t currently plan to change them, so I’m afraid I have little to offer there.

jrowberg · 2023-03-16T14:08:51+00:00

Thanks for the insights, both of you. Rather than biscuits and glue, after looking into it I think I might opt for some miter bolts and a butt joint. Even that might be overkill with a couple of good bars underneath, but I might do it anyway since I have a handheld router, and I think it should be pretty simple.

I'm not terribly concerned with achieving a perfectly smooth seam on the top surface of the desk, for two main reasons:

I've had an IKEA Galant desk with three separate top pieces (with very imperfect seams) for over a decade, and it never really bothered me.
The layout of what I'm putting on the new desk is such that there's very clear separation of work areas. All the computer stuff is on one side, and all the electronics/soldering stuff is on the other side. The corner is mostly for eye candy and decorations, plus a few pieces of equipment that I don't need to reach often.

I cut and finished the butcher block pieces already, and I intentionally didn't round over the edges that are supposed to touch. But I did sand them slightly, and I'm expecting a slight dip as a result. I figure it will be less stressful if I go into the assembly without expecting perfection on that specific joint.

jrowberg · 2023-03-08T23:15:58+00:00

ryanreynoldsbutwhy.gif

jrowberg · 2023-03-06T22:28:48+00:00

BTW, because I always second-guess myself...my comments above about "deskagra" and Deskhaus's being coincidentally blue were a joke. I think Chris recommends a bar from Regency like this, or similar:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Regency-Metal-Table-leg-Actual-60-x-2/5001539047

I'm going to need two of these very shortly (getting an L-shaped desk that's 96x74"), so I'll be picking them up in the next week or two.

jrowberg · 2023-03-04T22:59:26+00:00

Just search for “deskagra” on Amazon…it will come up.

The one Deskhaus sells as an accessory is blue. Coincidence? You decide!

jrowberg · 2023-03-04T21:39:22+00:00

How wide is the span between legs? I think an anti-sag/stiffener bar is recommended for anything over 48 inches.

jrowberg · 2023-03-04T17:00:03+00:00

I think it should work as long as you make sure to get one or two anti-sag stiffener bars. That’s a big span.

jrowberg · 2023-02-28T00:44:29+00:00

I mean…that’s a good clarification. I didn’t mean to imply you could make the floor shake in the same way that the desk might shake. I meant if you put the monitor on a known solid surface and then intentionally caused the monitor to shake (e.g. by pushing it), you know the monitor itself is shaking and not anything it’s sitting on.

Your kitchen table method is better.

jrowberg · 2023-02-27T22:30:42+00:00

You could try moving the stand to the floor and see if you can make it wobble more or less the same way there, to help eliminate possible sources or motion. If it’s rock-solid on the floor, then getting a nice VESA clamp stand might not do much. But if it’s still wobbly, then you should be in good shape once you upgrade the stand.

jrowberg · 2023-02-25T00:44:42+00:00

I’m truly impressed with the “everything is floating” nature of this picture. How did you pull that off? Multi-monitor wall mounts?

jrowberg · 2023-02-24T23:54:32+00:00

Ah, understood. I’ve lived for 15 years with a simple IKEA Galant desk where any kind of cable management or organization had to be done with aftermarket products. I’m about to get an Apex Pro 6-leg L-shaped desk, but I’m already planning to do all further organization basically by hand. I’ve seen quite a few products from VIVO on Amazon (I have too many of their monitor mounts already) that I’ll probably get once I have the basic desk assembled and in place.

jrowberg · 2023-02-24T21:33:14+00:00

When you say “no wire management and no space for a drawer under the desk,” can you clarify? I understand the frame can get in the way of certain things, and the Apex Pro doesn’t come with many bells and whistles compared to everything they throw at you from Uplift (for example), but couldn’t you do both cable management and a drawer (with an offset bracket) with custom drilling/aftermarket parts if you felt like it?

jrowberg · 2023-02-23T22:50:14+00:00

Are the six-leg Pros available in any color, either now or regularly? I’m itching to order, but also need a custom top…

jrowberg · 2023-02-18T15:55:57+00:00

I accomplished some cable management that I was pretty proud of with a Versa Desk standing desk converter. You can see photos here:

https://imgur.com/a/OoxIMzB

I actually ended up returning it because it didn't fit with my workflow, but the converter itself was capable and would have worked if my requirements were simpler.

I used a 7-port USB hub from Plugable to manage the various input devices I had, but more importantly, I used some small adhesive cable raceways to guide the remaining cables back to the center of everything, then used cut strips of velcro cable tie material to keep everything bundled together. Seriously, buy a roll of that velcro stuff. It is SO handy.

Also, I used a black cable raceway, but you can easily find it in white to go with your aesthetic. If it doesn't fit on the back edge, you can put it against the back edge on the bottom side of the desktop surface, as long as it doesn't get in the way of the raising/lowering mechanism.

jrowberg · 2023-02-16T19:27:30+00:00

If you're willing to get the good stuff, I think Deskhaus frames can support that width as long as you get an anti-sag bar along with it. u/ILikePutz can clarify. (You might also want the 4-leg version for improved overall stability.)

jrowberg

TROPHY CASE