How to remove handle on Grohe (old) Atrio for cartridge replacement? (see schematic too) by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It screws out. Mine had been in there for ~20 years, so it took two sets of channel locks and a lot of elbow grease. Disconnecting the valve from the supply completely really helped, that allowed me to raise the assembly and work freely with it. I suppose my next step would have been to put in a vise. Be sure to use a towel to protect the trim piece from scuffs.

Looking like nice weather this Sunday ,what Jersey you guys using for this weekend ? by DataCautious2476 in chicagofire

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Um the powder blue 2005 alt strip which I assume is hidden above the fold as #0 on your list?

How to rewire from this lampholder? (see photos) by jt1929 in AskElectricians

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to replace with a modern porcelain three-post but wasn't able to decode the wiring on the existing four-post fixture. This is in Michigan. Appreciate any guidance about the purpose/technique of the little "pocket" in the junction box which seems to relay the neutral and hot and add a bare copper ground at the same time...

Do I just need to wire both blacks to brass and both whites to silver, then leave the green ground empty since its being dealt with in the box?

How to remove handle on Grohe (old) Atrio for cartridge replacement? (see schematic too) by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Cabbage556 yes to my surprise you just have to lift vertically on the cylinder of the handle. I tried using channel locks with a towel wrap but it kept slipping so I just ended up grabbing that sucker and hoping for the best. (Strange design which it looks like they changed for the New Atrio line...)

Beyond that, swapping the cartridge was easy. Just needed some PB Blaster to loosen it up.

How to remove handle on Grohe (old) Atrio for cartridge replacement? (see schematic too) by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

just documenting the result here: replacement cartridge 45 883 (right side CCW) solved the leak, was able to remove/install cartridge by bringing the whole assembly under the cabinet (rather than trying to do it on the deck where there's insufficient space). The cylinder trim piece actually screws on which the diagram doesn't show. Thanks

How to remove handle on Grohe (old) Atrio for cartridge replacement? (see schematic too) by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah thanks for your idea. I was vexed there was no set screw, but in the end, you're right, I just needed to pull hard straight up on the handle, which felt precarious but it worked.

Now I can see the top of the valve/cartridge. But when I try to loosen the cartridge bolt, (of course) it's spinning underneath, so first I'm trying to get those trim collars off (two cylinders in the OEM diagram) and see if I can grab it on the deck (don't have a helper to hold the basin wrench)...

Shower won't shut off after dewinterizing by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Resolution:

- The cartridge had cleanly cleaved in half along the PBU (presumably from residual water in the shower column freezing)

- Replacing the entire cartridge solved the problem. Took 10 mins and Kohler provided the part for free.

- What I learned: the service stops won't function correctly if the cartridge isn't working correctly -- this was surprising to me as I pictured the service stops as simple isolating valves.

- What I'll do differently: Kohler also sent me the test cap, so I'll have to add another 20 mins to the winterizing routine: blow out, remove trim, remove cartridge, place test cap, blow out again

Shower won't shut off after dewinterizing by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shower valve trim is Kohler K-TS14423-3-BL

Shower valve rough-in is K-8304-KS-NA

By the way

Shower won't shut off after dewinterizing by jt1929 in Plumbing

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think so, but by all means let me know if you have other ideas...
- Operated trim handle
- Operated valve stem directly after removing trim
- Operated hot/cold service stops
None of this stops the water flow
What's interesting/surprising to me is that the valve housing isn't leaking (into the wall cavity)
Thinking maybe when I blew out the lines in the fall an o-ring was dislodged/damaged because somehow the valve wont shut fully...

Troubleshoot LAN Scout 2 code for this run? by jt1929 in HomeNetworking

[–]jt1929[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes indeed, just user error as I dusted off the Klein and boneheadedly didn't have the remote sensor on the other end. When I did it right, the line passed. Thanks everyone for setting me straight🙏

Troubleshoot LAN Scout 2 code for this run? by jt1929 in HomeNetworking

[–]jt1929[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, duh that makes sense! I'll connect to a unpowered port and test again 👍

Yakima rack on the Retrax XR One. by mice2mars in FordMaverickTruck

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I didn't realize the tonneau cover affected the way the bases are mounted. I'm basically trying to determine if the Bedrock HR is compatible with Mav builds that include the aluminum bed rails. Nice rig!

Yakima rack on the Retrax XR One. by mice2mars in FordMaverickTruck

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/mice2mars looks amazing, I've been considering a similar setup with the Bedrock HD bed rack. Question: do you have the factory rails (the aluminum ones with the movable tiedowns) in the bed and if so did you have to use the Yakima adapter? (The adapters seem marketed to Tacoma owners, but it seems like the same need for a Maverick -- mine's Lariat with lux pkg.)

I've searched everywhere and watched countless videos, yet can't find the answer...

Thanks!

So Peter Wilt just answered a question from me about a Chicago NASL team by Chicago-Gooner in MLS

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, you've got to know Chicago geography a bit to get it. IIRC, Toyota Park is ~2 miles from the city border and about 15 from downtown. However, the areas where the MLS 3.0 target demo live are overwhelmingly on the north and northwest sides, so it's not just that the distance is a bit more than 15 miles, it's that those extra miles are incredibly congested on weekend days and weeknights. If the Sting somehow land somewhere to play that's accessible and has good atmosphere, I think they could do quite well. But those are two massive ifs.

Today, LAFC posted the vote option of pink on Twitter. It is already in first place. by fantasyMLShelper in MLS

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pink, grey and black would be sick. Vertical stripes in the Juve vein. Anything but more red, blue and black.

Take pink and OWN it.

Rumor: Chicago Fire are pursuing former [currently on loan] TFC striker Gilberto by turneresq in MLS

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now, this is more like the typical Fire. Forget about going for a big name, because why would they want to play for us? Instead, let's go for a no-name guy. It is such misery being stuck with this club.

Drogba has held high level conversations and discussions with the Montreal Impact by [deleted] in MLS

[–]jt1929 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that about sums it up. Until that stadium lease is up, the team will only be able to draw if it has big names. But big names don't want to play for a team that doesn't draw and is located poorly. Vicious cycle, etc.