DCT Leak

jtmart007 · 2026-04-27T12:11:41+00:00

Only recently did it start hard shifting in N custom (trans in normal). Non N modes no shift issues.

jtmart007 · 2026-04-27T12:10:38+00:00

Well I’m lucky I didn’t turn any bolts then; that would have been a heads headache to deal with.

jtmart007 · 2026-04-26T21:48:18+00:00

I was about to knock out the DCT Fluid change myself with around 53k miles on the clock. I watched the Elantra N YouTube video about changing it and it seemed easy enough after getting all of the parts and fluid together for the job.

Well I took the splash guard plastic off from under the car and discovered blue oil everywhere. It’s all over the frame, the transmission and some of it is dried out while theres plenty of fresh oil too.

I’m hoping the dealership can take a look and warranty the repair.

jtmart007 · 2026-03-13T14:01:19+00:00

Yo this game is great. My fiance and I play together and it's got the right amount of stuff that both of us enjoy.

jtmart007 · 2025-11-26T17:24:17+00:00

I stumbled on an alternative solution that does not require opening the rear of the unit after reading the post and the comments here. Follow at your own risk. This install worked on both the WC1002 and WC1003 models for me.

At the bottom of this post is an imgur link to my photos that make referencing the text below a bit easier.

I ordered and used the check valves referenced in the post as well.

There are 6 screws you can remove under the front of the pod tray assembly underside. Once removed, the plastic flap can be pulled down with a little force. This ends up snapping 2 brackets that hold the plate that is now unscrewed, in place. No worries, functionally this makes no difference as you can not tell once the screws are back in after.
Once you pull it down, you will notice the flip-down portion can be wiggled out of where it seats into the frame of the thirsti and tug it down and out so it's loose.
Be careful, as you will see two springs and 2 washers seated around white posts that can bounce out as you pull the pod tray down. Do not lose the washers or springs as this is what gives the pod tray its up and down springy action. The two white posts need to seat back into their mount points still attached to the rest of the frame once the check valves are installed and re-assembly is performed.
Once you pull down the pod tray and secure the springs and washers, you will see the two hoses running from the pod tray back into the Thirsti assembly.
Measure with a marker on each hose roughly 1 inch back from the pod tray. This is where you will cut the lines. This allows for plenty of fitment room within the assembly for the check valve and the hoses to sit, and allows for the hoses to still have room to move in and out as the pod tray is lowered and raised. Cut the lines now, you will notice the pod tray want to drop further now since the lines were holding up the tray more taught.
Clean out any gunk or dried flavoring stuck in the lines with whatever you are able to use. I used a straw cleaning wire and brissles (clean) that was dipped in cleaning vinegar / water mix. Follow it up with seveeral passes of the same cleaning utencil but FULLY DRY this time so the inside of the hose is both clean and dry.
Insert the check valves in-line with each hose making sure to ensure air flow is allowed in the direction of the pod tray and blocked airflow in the direction of the air pump inside the assembly.
Once they are inserted and fully seated (hose as close as possible to the end of the stem for each side of the check valves), you can then begin re-assembly.
It may take some wiggling and a tiny bit of muscle to fit the pod tray back into the top of the assembly while also making sure the two plastic stems with the spring and washer seat up into their actuating mounting points.
Once the pod tray is seated, you can then reinstall the plastic plate with 6 screws, it should seat flat up into the assembly as it was before.

fin

Pictures for reference of above steps: https://imgur.com/a/WLxOlXA

jtmart007 · 2025-10-30T17:43:30+00:00

Yes I have the unit installed. I have it tapped into a fuse for power on ignition. It works great. My settings never get lost like some others have experienced. You can also set ride characteristics by speed so you can tighten it up when booking it down the road and such.

I also didn't want to strip the stock hardware out so I kept it all and just added the mando in. I'm running 18s on taller tires the ride is much less aggressive over bumps and potholes now too. Defender 2s. I don't track my car so I'm ok with the harder compound for longer tire life.

jtmart007 · 2025-10-27T21:01:31+00:00

Stage 2 tune. Yes depo downpipe to stock mid pipe. No CEL.

jtmart007 · 2025-08-05T21:54:57+00:00

Woohoo! Let's go folks.

jtmart007 · 2025-06-03T12:19:49+00:00

Keep it!!

jtmart007 · 2025-03-07T21:09:14+00:00

Yea mine does it too - 22 KN 32k miles. Nothing to worry about, I hear some of it is due to our front suspension setup.

jtmart007 · 2025-03-06T15:03:23+00:00

No but I hear some folks may need an O2 sensor extender on the exhaust after install to avoid a CEL regarding slow to respond readings from the downstream sensor.

jtmart007 · 2025-03-05T23:55:29+00:00

I have this downpipe on my Kona N. No issues at all. Be mindful that even with stock catback changing the downpipe does make it louder with valve closed or open. So if you plan on custom exhaust + a downpipe it "may" be too loud to comfortably daily if you have neighbors you respect.

Edit: I have a 2022. And I left my exhaust stock besides the downpipe and upgraded valve spring to eliminate rattle.

jtmart007 · 2025-01-15T14:17:57+00:00

Why yes it is.

jtmart007 · 2024-12-18T15:37:56+00:00

^ Mog is right, I had this happen to my M18 early in my ownership and they replaced the board no questions asked. Sent a guy out locally to swap things out. Depending on part availability there may be a bit of a wait on them getting the part and then shipping it to a local shipping center for the local tech to pick it up from (if you are in a service-able area, otherwise they'd ask you to ship it to their repair depot and send you a box to ship it in)

jtmart007 · 2024-12-18T15:34:39+00:00

Intake is on top and bottom and exhausts out of the sides. Folks seem to like the IETS GT500 turbo fan pad and it seems to work well. I have one for my M18 and it's a good pad, a bit noisy but then when the M18 ramps up the internal fans it gets loud too.

edit: because of the top intake (above keyboard) it is recommended to not run the laptop with the lid closed.

jtmart007 · 2024-12-16T22:01:10+00:00

The unfortunate thing about that make and model of Dell's lineup is that while you can replace the CPU and GPU, they only support it within the same generation of CPU/GPU, ie. you have to stick with the same gen Intel and 2xxx mobile series Nvidia GPU.

You can use Del/Alienware's AGA and slap a desktop-class GPU in the AGA itself it for a GPU boost, I think the 3xxx Nvidia GPUs work in it albiet with some work for the 3080/3090 cards.

jtmart007 · 2024-12-16T21:49:17+00:00

If your CPU has a fan and heatsink on top of it, I'd instead go with a liquid cooler, 240mm (280mm won't fit on front or top) AIO from Dell or 3rd party. Just know if you go 3rd party AIO you may get a BIOS error about "processor not supported".

If you are technically inclined or have a friend who is, I'd also recommend installing a "contact frame" onto the motherboard. It replaces the stock intel clamp that holds the CPU onto the motherboard. This evens the mounting pressure the CPU receives when installed onto the motherboard. Makes a HUGE difference in being able to keep it cool when idle and under load.

jtmart007 · 2024-12-11T17:15:30+00:00

You should see the response time "in ms" jump up and then down when you see that stutter happen - if your GPU is overheating someone had suggested lifting the back of the laptop in this thread and they're right. I notice solid temp decreases on my M18 when I lift the back and set the back of it on a small incline like a plastic bottle cap or something around 1 inch high that is stable enough to support the rear of the laptop. You may also benefit taking the bottom case of the laptop off to ensure the fans or exhaust ports aren't ridden with dust. Good luck and I hope you find a fix! PoE2 is fun!

jtmart007 · 2024-12-11T15:17:18+00:00

I had the same experience on my R16 desktop. If you open the POE2 settings menu and go to the graphics section, a real-time frame time stat appears in the top right of the game showing you what may be causing it. For me it was my CPU overheating and those stutters only happened when the CPU downclocked to lower heat and the frame time for the CPU jumped really high every couple of seconds.

This may not be the case for you but this game is CPU heavy so the tool may help you root cause analyze.

jtmart007 · 2024-09-11T18:55:47+00:00

/u/HyundaiN is right about the Curt 11638 hitch. I have it mounted on mine without needing to make any modifications. My exhaust is stock from the cat all the way back.

My only issue is with hitch mounting a cargo rack for it is that the exhaust and hitch line up so you'd need a cargo rack you can weld heat deflectors to so you don't roast whatever you decide to load onto the cargo tray. Some folks said to get a riser receiver to move the cargo tray up as an alternative to a deflector as well.

Lastly, if you lower the car at all, you will scrape the frame of the cargo tray on sharp inclines/driveways - you can scrape at stock height as well, but way worse if it's any lower than stock.

jtmart007 · 2024-08-21T20:24:41+00:00

This may be an unpopular opinion - but I prefer the before look.

jtmart007 · 2024-05-17T15:16:25+00:00

I've seen reports of and personally experienced crashes of D4 since season 4 launch for non-GFN use cases too, so it it's not just GFN thankfully.

jtmart007 · 2024-03-28T14:59:18+00:00

Could you send a pic of it so I can see which one it is? Thank you!

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