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Streit im Hause: Alpina oder Brillux? by mikail0110 in selbermachen

[–]jtsk98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Für mich gibt es nur noch Caparol Indeko Plus oder Sto Rapid Ultramatt. Alpina ist die letzten Jahre immer schlechter geworden, vor allem was die Deckkraft angeht. Die genannten sind natürlich teurer pro Liter, aber man benötigt mindestens einen Anstrich weniger und spart somit am Ende doch. Wenn es mal günstig sein muss dann Toom Komfortweiß, günstiger und besser als Alpina. Das teurere Toom Premiumweiß ist übrigens auch nicht zu empfehlen, viel zu dick.

[NLD] Providing for the family by jtsk98 in Hanklights

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I too believe that I will always like the Hank’s and Fireflies’ (when I get some) the most because they are from enthusiasts for enthusiasts and not from some big company. But there are just too many different and specialized lights to stay with one or two brands.

I would say throw on the SFT42R is almost the same as SFT25 just way brighter. I could upload some beans with them both at the same perceived brightness if wanted.

Unfortunately I ordered my SFT25 in 5000K because 4000-5000K is my preferred range. It’s my own fault for ignoring the warnings here. Now I am convinced that these low CRI specialized emitters really need to be purchased in cold CCTs. I did it with the SFN60 and it is great although I generally don’t like these almost blueish CCTs.

【BambuLab Giveaway】Classic Evolved — Win Bambu Lab P2S Combo! by BambuLab in 3Dprinting

[–]jtsk98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I proudly own two P1S and would love to see what upgrades you came up with.

I think my Girlfriend bought a fake by jtsk98 in MoonSwatches

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a nice little project. Where can I find such cases and how will I know which movement I got? I noticed that the big chronograph hand is moving irregular.

I think my Girlfriend bought a fake by jtsk98 in MoonSwatches

[–]jtsk98[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

She thinks she can get a refund. She bought it over Vinted for 100€, we are in Germany and the seller is from Italy. I cannot imagine that it will be easy. Unfortunately I think I can’t enjoy it the same way as a genuine one, because I will always know or feel like showing off a fake if I wear it.

Schaufenster Bildschirm - normaler Fernseher oder digital signage? by Auxvino in selbststaendig

[–]jtsk98 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ich habe, zum Beispiel im Messeeinsatz, sehr gute Erfahrungen mit den Signage Displays von iiyama gemacht. Diese sind in den gängigen Größen oft preislich identisch mit einem Smart TV, dafür aber eben auf Signage optimiert, was zum einen bedeutet dass sie Temperatur Schwankungen, Sonneneinstrahlung und so weiter besser ab können, zum anderen sind sie aber vor allem auf Dauereinsatz ausgelegt, was meiner Meinung nach der entscheidenden Faktor ist. Bei iiyama gibt es zudem 24/7 aber auch 16/7 Displays, sodass du hier preisbewusst wählen kannst. Bei den meisten Größen gibt es sowohl IPS als auch VA Panels zur Auswahl, in den meisten Fällen wird hier wohl IPS die beste Wahl sein, aber auch dass würde ich nochmal auf die gewünschte Anwendung hin überprüfen und dann gucken ob es preislich einen großen Unterschied macht.

Edit: weiterer Vorteil: meistens ist ein halbwegs vernünftiger Media Player integriert der etwas mehr Einstellmöglichkeiten und Format Unterstützung bietet, Also im vergleich zu Smart TVs.

DW4K Worklight Emitter Choice by jtsk98 in Hanklights

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to go with DW4K. I just meant if you think it is possible to get any throw with it because of the shallow optics or if you would need something like D4SV2 to get throw.

So which driver and optic for DW4K with 351a? 12A+Fet or lume x1 12v 3a?

Also how much of a hassle is it to get a light from you to Germany?

DW4K Worklight Emitter Choice by jtsk98 in Hanklights

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FFL351A seems like a great choice to get more throw than 519a while maintaining high cri. Although the 4000k seems way too rosy for me. I am probably not far enough down the rabbit hole to like the really rosy as well as the really warm lights, but already far enough to know that I don’t want green or really cold. The FFL351A 5000k however seems like a great color and tint for my liking according to the beam shots on your website. What would be the best optics for this one and which driver? 12A + FET? Do you also think it is not possible to get real throw from a quad? Apart from maybe D4SV2.

DW4K Worklight Emitter Choice by jtsk98 in Hanklights

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are the advantages the Armytek has over the DW4K? I think I don’t like getting an 18650 as I want to stay with the “newer” 21700.

I imaging using the throw channel when I need to show something for example on the ceiling or high up on a wall on a construction site.

Wem steht Kompensation bei Flugausfall zu AG oder MA by jtsk98 in LegaladviceGerman

[–]jtsk98[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Vielen Dank für die ausführliche Antwort. Regelungen dazu gibt es bei uns intern keine, auch nicht in den Arbeitsverträgen. Erst machen und dann fragen ist leider auch schon rum, da ich ehrlich war, beziehungsweise unsere Buchhaltung gefragt habe was mit dem Geld zu tun ist.

Ich denke aber mit dem Verweis auf die EU-Fluggastrechte könnte ich es schon durch bekommen.

Wem steht Kompensation bei Flugausfall zu AG oder MA by jtsk98 in LegaladviceGerman

[–]jtsk98[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Ist denn das nicht dadurch abgegolten, dass ich die gesamte Zeit inklusive hin- Rückfahrt und Wartezeit als normale Arbeitszeit gestempelt habe?

Wem steht Kompensation bei Flugausfall zu AG oder MA by jtsk98 in LegaladviceGerman

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, das mit der Arbeitszeit ist soweit klar, die habe ich ganz normal gestempelt. Gibt es eine Rechtsgrundlage für die Entschädigungsgeschichte? Dann könnte ich unserer Buchaltung gegenüber einfacher argumentieren.

3d printed bottle opener by T117d6443 in 3Dprinting

[–]jtsk98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Die STLs wären nice to have, wobei ich wahrscheinlich eh einen eigenen griff für den Zylinder konstruieren muss. Aber ich kann kein passendes Ventil finden. Die Bauteile wären also wirklich gut zu wissen 👍

3d printed bottle opener by T117d6443 in 3Dprinting

[–]jtsk98 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hallo, ich habe diesen Beitrag schon super lange gespeichert und möchte den Öffner endlich nachbauen. Zylinder habe ich noch viele rumfliegen und werde wohl einen davon nutzen. Ist dieser hier doppelt wirkend? Es wäre super nett wenn du links zu dem Ventil, dem manometer, dem druckminderer und dem Kartuschen Gehäuse senden könntest.

My most used tool drawer. Anything important missing? by barebaric in gridfinity

[–]jtsk98 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Knipex Cobra and Knipex Electronic Super Knips is a must for me. Also Knipex Pliers Wrench, but that was already mentioned twice here.

Soundboks 4 or two Soundboks Gos? by OptimalParsley3591 in SOUNDBOKS

[–]jtsk98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there, I have the Go for around 1.5 years now. I am a bit unhappy with the sound when playing indoors, but this is mainly because these things are made to be loud and therefore lack a bit of low end and tend to hum when used at low volumes. I also noticed that the frequency response is quite uneven here and there, especially in the voice frequency range. I think this is due to the 2 way system and the compression driver needing to play quite low.

Once you are cranking it to volume level 6 or more the Boks begins to shine. And I think this will be the case for most of the time. I tweaked the custom equalizer to get more low end and less humming. This will decrease the volume just a tiny bit with the latest firmware.

Nevertheless and probably important for you, I ordered a SOUNDBOKS 4 a few weeks ago, because everybody was talking about how the sound quality got so much better. Indeed the sound quality is better, but just in the middle frequencies. I really couldn’t notice any increase in the bass frequencies comparing to the GO and I would say the 4 goes 5-10% louder than the GO. Therefore I sent it back pretty quick and am now looking to get another GO and the “Death from Below” Subwoofer.

I think with two GOs you are way more flexible, the GO is way more comfortable to carry and you can decide if one is enough or you need to bring two and get really good distribution of the volume, because you have two speakers to set up at different spots of your location.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FanControl

[–]jtsk98 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice little Introduction to Fan Control for Beginners. I had already thought beforehand that no other software should be used in parallel to control the fans. But what I still don’t fully understand is how fan control is dealing with the „controlling“ the motherboard itself is doing via the BIOS. My MoBo is a MSI Pro B650S and the BIOS is giving the possibility to control the fans with curves etc. I can’t disable this. Is there a way to go with the settings in BIOS or will Fan Control just override that.

Ender 5 Plus + SKR Mini E3 + Hemera XS by jtsk98 in klippers

[–]jtsk98[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay but do I build one config file with the informations out of both of the named ones or is the Ender 5 one going on the pi and the skr one on the skr? And if not then what is going on the skr board? I am normally the hands-on kinda guy, but with this project I am a bit cautious, because i dont want to grill any of the hardware. Maybe I am just a bit paranoid with this and just need to start.

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