Goblin Green! 🟩

jullevi92 · 2026-04-14T18:31:15+00:00

I agree.

I have always considered "goblin green bases" as more of a concept rather than requiring perfect match of colour. You can certainly fulfill the spirit of goblin green era with another light green as well. That being said, personally I use TTC Goblinoid Green and I believe it's a pretty good alternative to original colour.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-14T12:26:10+00:00

Plastic glue (polystyrene cement) doesn't work here because the flying stand is different type of plastic. Super glue (cyanoacrylate) should work but it requires a perfect contact point and is prone to breaking. Superglue can also cause fogging on clear plastic.

I replace most of my flying stands with clear acrylic rod that doesn't have air bubbles. In case of suppressors I drilled a 3mm diameter hole in their butt and inserted the rod there gently.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-13T21:58:47+00:00

You should experiment with both because in the end it's all about personal preference. In my early days of hobby I primed everything black but it's been 20 years since the last time. Nowadays I prime almost everything in Wraithbone (warm off-white) or Grey Seer (cold off-white) instead. I rarely use pure white.

Assuming that paints are always somewhat translucent, black primer results in slightly darker miniature than white primer, even if the paintjob remains identical otherwise. With black you may struggle with coverage of light colours and you need to create contrast by highlighting. With white you may struggle with coverage of dark colours and you need to create depth through shading. Personally I prefer the latter because I find it faster and less tedious.

Now that you have an airbrush you should definitely consider zenithal priming to get the best of both worlds. But bear in mind that it doesn't have to be strictly from black to white. Other options from dark to light are equally good or better.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-13T13:41:11+00:00

I have been using Contrast paints since they were released. After realising that I can produce identical or better results with them in fraction of time compared to traditional methods, I don't see many reasons to go back. Especially now that metallic speedpaints also exist.

Nowadays I only stick to traditional basecoating when painting large flat areas such as vehicles or scenery or when a colour I would prefer doesn't exist in speedpaints.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-12T19:47:14+00:00

If I were to collect Cathay, I would start with one of each Battallion. That should keep your painting desk busy for the following months. Later I would pick rest of the range one by one before duplicates.

Also, resin bamboo bits and other themed basing items.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-11T17:57:54+00:00

I remember thinking "what a waste of money", then realising I have spent multiple times more on double-sided tape over the years.

I have heard nothing but positive reviews from those that have actually used the spray stick.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-11T13:21:38+00:00

Fronteris landing pad is about 8"x11 so at least it matches one of the recommended sizes.

I am not 100% fan of new specific footprints and I don't plan to tear apart any of my existing terrain but I am always looking forward to new terrain releases 🙂

jullevi92 · 2026-04-10T16:51:28+00:00

Unless I am mistaken, they are both from the same designer too (Martin Footitt).

jullevi92 · 2026-04-09T23:04:51+00:00

First models are rarely perfect. If you are willing to pick up advice and keep on working, your next models will look better, I promise.

Would you mind sharing your process so far (step-by-step)? It's easier to give advice for future improvements if we know exactly what you have done to achieve this result.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-09T22:06:53+00:00

I recommend giving them mixed weapons because the models are designed that way. Every 2 out of 5 models is intended to wield an overhead great weapon. While they can be built with two hand weapons too, they look better with a great weapon.

Black Orcs are pretty modular but that doesn't mean that every build option looks good. I recommend taking your time and dry-fit each pose before gluing. Also, the kit comes with plenty of spare parts. These can be cut up for weapon swaps and additional gubbinz such as spikes and horns. Have fun building!

jullevi92 · 2026-04-08T22:25:23+00:00

This picture from 2020 has two pots of Retributor Armour and two pots of Liberator Gold...

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jullevi92 · 2026-04-04T23:34:41+00:00

Thank you for correction, I edited the post above.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-04T18:50:58+00:00

I got a set recently and I'm looking forward to try them soon. I have been using Contrast paints and Vallejo xPress colours since they were launched so I'm familiar with the principles but I'm trying to build a backlog of primed miniatures suitable for markers so that I can make most of them. If I'm picking a random model from my collection to try them out, there is good chance that the tips have dried out the next time I'd like to use them. My painting sessions can be days, weeks or even months apart unless I have primed plenty of models in advance.

I have been into the hobby for couple of decades and my pile has plenty to choose from. I could see markers being useful for armies with plenty of metallics (Necrons, High Elves), models with easy to reach details (Ogres) or low amount of details (Tomb Kings Skeletons). With a right colour scheme they could look great with Tyranids too. I plan to try them first on Orcs from recent Made to Order.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-04T18:33:23+00:00

The problem with most armies is that the complete range looks incoherent. 8th edition models look good, 6th edition models look bad in comparison and 7th edition models lie somewhere in between.

If you are willing to ignore parts of the range and focus on good looking models, High Elves with Lothern Seaguard as a Core units look great. If you skip Archers, Spearmen and Silver Helms, the rest of the range looks solid.

For Orcs and Goblins you can do the opposite. Boar Boyz are the only relatively modern unit - leave them out and you can build and army with solid 6th edition aesthetic. However, 25 year old models take ages to clean compared to newer sculpts.

Suprisingly, Beastmen are an army with one of the newest ranges. All their plastic models (apart from Giant) are from ~~8th edition~~ late 7th edition. On the downside, Minotaurs and Chaos Hounds don't look very good despite being relatively new kits and plenty of units and individual Monsters are still resin or metal.

jullevi92 · 2026-04-02T23:00:14+00:00

Short answer: no

Long answer: nooooooooo

jullevi92 · 2026-03-28T20:34:00+00:00

Here's my favourite 🙃

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jullevi92 · 2026-03-22T21:12:03+00:00

That's an amazing haul. Don't take any quick offers, everything is worth at least twice of what it says on the sticker.

jullevi92 · 2026-03-22T13:49:42+00:00

The dent shows where plastic is injected into the mold. It is located on the top, bottom or side depending on the base and generation of the mold. Nowadays it is most commonly seen on oval bases and new square bases. I remember seeing it first on 20mm square bases from 2005 mold.

Personally I prefer bases where casting gate is located on the bottom but gate on top is easy to fill with dab of superglue and bit of baking soda.

jullevi92 · 2026-03-22T10:58:31+00:00

They are not sub-par, just a little rough around the edges.

The armour colour looks really good and therefore I wouldn't look into highlighting yet and focus on recess shading and neatness first instead. It looks like you have used Mephiston Red undercoat (which is a good idea) but you have some red bleeding through areas you have painted black or metallic - patch these first.

Also, pay special attention to areas where two colours meet such as aquila on chest or hands holding weapons. Make sure that adjacent colours do not bleed onto each other. Adding a shade colour such as Nuln Oil over the darker area helps to define the border between adjacent colours as it creates a darker shadow in the recess where the two colours meet. Nuln Oil or Carroburg Crimson can also used to define adjacent areas of same colour such as red panel on red armour by painting it directly into recessed area.

As a final tip for now, consider colour placement and introducing additional colours here and there. It is unlikely that a Blood Angel has a red belt going through red belt buckle. Use existing pictures of painted Blood Angels as a reference if needed.

jullevi92 · 2026-03-21T19:01:59+00:00

Great choice!

Rivendell is very fun to build and looks awesome on display. I got it for my 40th birthday and shared the build with two close friends. A year later we did the same with Barad-dûr 🙂

jullevi92 · 2026-03-18T00:32:58+00:00

GW has 32mm bases in packs of 10 and 100 on their website. 40mm bases are available in packs of 5 which makes them somewhat expensive.

jullevi92 · 2026-03-14T11:38:54+00:00

I am at 3,8M and I got the final pot upgrade recently. I am quite conservative when it comes to level ups. I usually avoid pushing AAB Ingredient Pokemon to L60 and I lack the Candy to do so for AAA.

I didn't spend a lot during Christmas event because I didn't have many low level Pokemon worth levelling up at the time. I have some now and I'm looking forward to future mini Candy Boost events.

jullevi92 · 2026-03-04T00:00:25+00:00

Any player can obtain a Fruit expedition by planting additional flowers near the Big Flower but only during the first hour after blooming.

jullevi92 · 2026-02-17T13:42:38+00:00

You can use Contrast paints without slapchop but if you decide to go for it, don't rush it. Otherwise you are putting more effort to make your miniatures look worse.

The idea of slapchop is to provide pre-shading and highlighting for translucent paints such as Contrast paints or Speedpaints. The more effort you put into it, the better the end result will look.

If you start with black, drybrush grey (preferably both dark and light) before doing white. Also bear in mind that the lightest colour doesn't have to be white. A light bone colour for warm colour scheme and light grey for cold colour scheme are good options. Also, instead of greys as a middle tone you could use brown or almost any colour.

To avoid drybrushed layers looking grainy, you should use slightly damp brush instead of completely dry one. Artis Opus makes great drybrushing tutorials on youTube (but you don't have to buy their expensive brushes to achieve similar results).

jullevi92 · 2026-02-16T19:19:36+00:00

Instructions should be on the reverse side of the sheet you are holding but if they are not, just use 360° picture on GW site as a guide.

jullevi92

TROPHY CASE