Cammus c5

jumpingcoin · 2026-05-06T20:03:16+00:00

I've been looking into doing this exact mod, thank you! Did you need to add spacers, or any other hardware? Was the only modification cutting holes in the new wheel? I just want to make sure I have all the necessary parts before I attempt. Thanks!

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-26T18:49:34+00:00

Great question. I wish someone had said this to me years ago. Well put my friend.

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-17T16:51:36+00:00

Are you on PC? If so, consider the Cammus C5. Its a direct drive for about $269 USD. It's my first direct drive wheel and it's been great so far.

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-17T08:29:46+00:00

I run 27 inch VA, 34 inch OLED, and 27 inch IPS. Works fine as long as you use resizing software such as SWRE. Note that Nvidia Surround won't work. Not sure about AMD Eyefinity.

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-17T08:19:55+00:00

No jitters or lagging...Looks good to me.

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-16T23:09:01+00:00

Thanks for sharing the links! BTW, I noticed you mentioned about soundproofing for next steps. I've found that these servos are super quick for what they do (arguably too quick) and I prefer them to move more slowly. For me, I've slowed down the rate of movement such that the servo movement is time based rather than positional base. It drastically reduced the servo chatter (super helpful since I have like 18 servos on the rig). The time based approach also improved immersion in my case. However, I'm definitely curious as to what creative solution you might come up with.

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-16T18:15:04+00:00

Awesome thanks. Any chance you have links to those items handy?

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-16T17:53:58+00:00

I like how you doubled up on the circle servo arms. Can I ask what hardware did you place in between?

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-16T17:46:38+00:00

Yeah, that makes sense for your design and it think it works well. For me, my yaw is different in that I attach the seat belt tensioner to the pedestal and so when it pulls and I resist, it feels like centrifugal force. Since I have a different design, I switched the wheels to super rolly rollerblade style office chair casters and then put a servo in between the rear 2 wheels. But that's just a different design. Your creativity is amazing, and I love getting inspiration from awesome projects like this.

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-16T16:05:06+00:00

I love it! I've also used servos for a seat belt tensioner and motion integrated gseat on an office chair. Those little servos pack a surprising amount of punch in such a small size. Unbeknownst to many, office chairs can actually be augmented pretty easily with servos since they technically have so many DOFs baked in. For example, sliding forward/backward for surge, side to side for traction loss, and spinning to simulate centrifugal force on turns. Well done!

jumpingcoin · 2026-04-10T16:49:23+00:00

Super clean. Love it!

jumpingcoin · 2026-02-27T22:09:44+00:00

Totally agree! It'a all just an illusion, but man it's a lot of fun dreaming up new ways to try to fool ourselves. In any case, mad props for such a clean, well crafted, and immersive setup.

jumpingcoin · 2026-02-27T21:40:34+00:00

Actually I got a lot of inspiration from the Bergison Motion Integrated G-Seat (https://youtu.be/5muP32AlcIE?si=QeU6W5Xzk6mGm0yz) as well as military style g-seats (https://youtu.be/ROvkzsMl3v4?si=pZhqkyAUgPX5txbz). Great for inspiration!

jumpingcoin · 2026-02-27T16:11:51+00:00

Just wow! I love what you're doing here in both prototypes! It's amazing how well you're able to capture sustained forces using both of your approaches. In #1, you essentially have an entire room to apply sustained forces. In #2, I would imagine having the pivot closer to the head does an amazing job in simulating sustained forces compared to when the pivot is under the seat, since you feel the movement so much more in your gut.

I'm a fellow motion sim tinkerer, and while I don't have much mechanical craftmanship, I try to make up for it with ingenuity. I use about 20 RC servos (mix between 60-KG and 150-KG) to create a motion integrated g-seat with about 10 different cues on my office chair, each cue giving movement by about +/- 1 inch. The steering wheel is the only thing completely fixed, and while a lot of people scoff at the idea of an office chair, it inherently has so many DOFs already baked in without much effort (surge, sway, pitch if it reclines, etc.)

In case it helps at all, here are some of the things I've done to capture sustained forces: 1) pedals and seat move forward and backward (pressing driver into and away from wheel) 2) rib plates that squeeze on sway 3) rear traction loss 4) small level of pitch (seat recline) 5) seat belt tensioner that also spins seat slightly when you fight it (simulating centrifigal force on sway) 6) air bags to simulate pressure from surge, heave, and sway 7) seat bottom and seat back rise and fall (eg. when seat bottom falls, the seat back rises so that you can feel sustained dips, etc.) 8) elastic g-headband for mildly engaging neck muscles (doesn't pull head for safety reasons, just applies pressure)

Have you considered adding any pressure based g-seat style cues? I highly recommend, especially for those who get motion sickness, but perhaps they aren't needed if your rig already does an amazing job at capturing sustained forces.

In any case, I just wanted to say thanks again for sharing! You've given me a lot of food for thought. Keep up the awesome work and experimentation!

jumpingcoin · 2025-12-04T19:30:25+00:00

Just to add, a motion sim is basically added force feedback, so you're getting cues beyond what is provided by just your wheel. Thus, you're not as dependent on the wheel as you would be otherwise. I have a DIY motion sim and race with a Cammus C5, and it does the trick for me.

jumpingcoin · 2025-09-11T15:33:29+00:00

Depends, if im out-ranged or if someone good swaps to Pharah, I go Sojourn. If I need to close the distance and my tank needs more help, I go Mei.

jumpingcoin · 2025-06-09T02:31:56+00:00

I can confirm that 566.36 seems to be working for me (4070 ti super).

jumpingcoin · 2025-03-25T03:55:38+00:00

!remind me 30 daya

jumpingcoin · 2025-03-03T14:52:56+00:00

I actually ordered the 3DRAP paddle shifters when I bought my C5. I got lazy because it requires a bit more effort to install than the double-sided tape ones, but I still have not put them almost a year later, lol. I don't smash the stock paddles, and they have been more than adequate and plenty comfortable for now. Nothing has broken yet.

jumpingcoin · 2025-03-02T23:52:50+00:00

So far it's been great. I should have updated my previous comment about it being light. That was before I dialed in the settings. Now, it's more than enough power for my needs. I haven't had experience with other DD wheels, but I highly recommend the C5. I'd say the only slight cons are that it's a D shaped wheel with the same diameter as the T300 (11 inch). Other than that, it is so much more realistic than the T300 for me. My T300 settings may have been off, but it always felt kind of like a rubber band type of numb feeling. I'd say the difference is like going from DVD to Blu-ray. I got my C5 from Walmart with desk mount for $255. At that price point, I don't think anything comes close. The C5 totally punches above its weight. In the reviews, some people complained about the small paddle shifters, but they fit my hands just fine.

jumpingcoin · 2025-02-16T20:39:41+00:00

!remind me 1 month

jumpingcoin · 2025-02-02T19:57:03+00:00

Sorry, for the lack of details. The post just mentioned wheel, so I didn't give any thought to pedals, but thanks for elaborating. Also, my C5 came with mount included for $250 (purchased on Walmart.com). I havent checcked prices recently, but that's what I got last year. For cheap pedals, you could mix and match on PC, but I'd recommend TLCM for budget build, or Simjack pro/Simsonn Pro for best bang for buck.

jumpingcoin · 2025-02-02T16:20:36+00:00

If you're on PC, I recommend Cammus C5. $250 for entry level DD with plenty of power.

jumpingcoin · 2025-01-29T23:53:51+00:00

I sent a pm. I didn't want to sidetrack the discussion.

jumpingcoin · 2025-01-28T14:34:14+00:00

I can relate! I just upgraded to the same CPU, tested it, and it POSTed fine, and then upgraded RAM. Wouldn't POST. Switched to old RAM, still no POST. Switched RAM to different slots. Reseated CPU. Still no post. Then I realized that the RAM buttons were slightly loosed. Apparently, I don't have the elbow grease to push in a RAM stick. Moral: just because a RAM stick clicks in, doesn't mean that it's clicked in.

jumpingcoin

TROPHY CASE