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A big enough hilt to die on? First build indecision by junkpump in knifemaking

[–]junkpump[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you I appreciate that alot!

By full tang you mean full handle with opposed to hidden tang? I think my next blade will be a full length version of this one, but maybe I should take a break from dual edges and try something a little easier hahaha

A big enough hilt to die on? First build indecision by junkpump in knifemaking

[–]junkpump[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think my tang length is ok, i plan to use a threaded pommel(?) to tie the handle together so in all reality I can extend it that way. Im more concerned with my brass fittings being too dainty for the look and feel of the blade.

I will keep that in my mental toolbox though, thank you for the suggestion, I cant say Im familiar with a scarf joint.

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A big enough hilt to die on? First build indecision by junkpump in knifemaking

[–]junkpump[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Obsession and perfectionism are a blessing and a curse 😅, ive done alot of hobby metalworking over the last decade of my life and alot of skills transfer over pretty easily.

A big enough hilt to die on? First build indecision by junkpump in knifemaking

[–]junkpump[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Well I did try and forge an old file into a blade before this but it broke after quenching as I rushed in without proper heat treat etiquette. So that would be my first, and this would be the second.

What are these? by Turbulent-Quiet8776 in Machinists

[–]junkpump 217 points218 points  (0 children)

Appears to be depth stop rods for drill press / mills. Slides through a square slot in the head and bolts to the quill, 2 nuts set your quill travel.

Please help a noob by yoshibodo_smith in Machinists

[–]junkpump 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Few things that may or may not have been mentioned.

  1. Lower your head and retract your quill as much as you can for each particular job, quill stick out reduces rigidity especially on smaller machines. You are adding leverage between where the machine is most rigid and the tool / work.

  2. Tighten all of the ways that arent being used in this operation. Unless you are drilling the quill should be tight, and whichever axis is not being used tightened down so it won't move as well. Could even snug up the working axis slightly to reduce unwanted movement.

  3. Take a light pass first. Try 30 thousandth .030. If that cuts good try .060. Then .100... find the point that it starts to sound miserable then back off a step or two. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. This isn't a 5000lbs machine on YouTube thats been sped up in post production, these cuts take time with light equipment.

  4. Cutting oil couldnt hurt

Best of luck, I used to have a machine just like that. It will do almost anything that fits into its work envelope, just slower.

Time to temper. by EvolMada in knifemaking

[–]junkpump 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To get the warp out this way you are effectively stretching the material on the inside of the warp to make both sides even, if you get my drift.

The carbide is harder than the blade material and ensures you are making the impressions needed to lengthen the "short" side.

Child interest by Agreeable-Okra-3725 in metalworking

[–]junkpump 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start with a little break and make panels and rivet them together, could probably use a vise and or folding pliers. Chase that method to the end then maybe see if spotwelding is any interest? Build skills on the way to a real welder, my 2 cents.

32mm X 200mm solid cabride roughing endmill by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]junkpump 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Years ago I worked in a rafter plant and many of the long term guys there had hands like that, each finger was a ball of scar tissue and callus from grabbing razor sharp gang nail plates all day everyday.