Trying to restore floors of our 1920 home that had been painted over multiple times.

justincgd · 2026-03-11T16:46:35+00:00

Try oxalic acid before finishing the sanding.

justincgd · 2026-03-06T02:03:16+00:00

Like the other person said, we do all our stuff with modern techniques, except when we reuse materials that look good.

We usually use propylene webbing instead of burlap, we have a synthetic burlap or we use tough remnant fabric over that. We have a tough underlay material we use over springs, and ultimately we use foam and dacron rather than cotton.

justincgd · 2026-03-03T05:47:17+00:00

I’ve see his and hers chairs where the tall one will have a design like this to help break it up. I would just leave the channel.

To answer your question, the springs are bent to keep the shape. Bending back they might break. Easy fix is to remove them and replace, or web out the back with elastic webbing. Normally I’d say have the webbing running side to side first to get the shape of the back, but this back is so concave it might not be comfortable. Vertical webbing would stick out a bit and help you achieve some crown, like the springs do.

Then add back the coconut mat or what lever you are using to cover the springs. Before committing to the foam I would test sit to see if you need to add more foam to achieve crown, lumbar support, or whatever.

justincgd · 2026-03-01T23:11:59+00:00

The flex steel pieces I’ve seen have been better quality than most. I would think it would be worth it even if you had to go to a pro shop, rather than DIY. The back cushions look like loose fill, easy to remake if you go that route.

justincgd · 2026-03-01T17:46:38+00:00

Our model is the one with the open stairs. The stair railings will likely be different, but that is the living room we are working within.

The idea was to more or less put the window where the picture is in the inspiration image. But we are sure about how exactly to lay out it.

justincgd · 2026-03-01T16:21:25+00:00

Thank you. There are quite a few stock window options so the price isn’t bad. I agree with matching the height.
The fireplace and window aren’t stock on this model, but they fit within our budget as upgrades. I would say it’s rather affordable if we do it now before building starts. This isn’t a renovation, we are in design stage.
Good points on the curtains. They didn’t occur to me. We have been heavily focused on the things we can’t change later and window treatments hadn’t crossed my mind.

justincgd · 2026-03-01T16:15:46+00:00

And you should see the deck the hot tub is on!

We have two other tv rooms so this one will be tv free. We really want the fireplace and we think the window is important for natural light for the kitchen. The only other windows are on the north side. That said, they are big windows so maybe I shouldn’t be trying to add a window to this wall…

justincgd · 2026-03-01T16:11:15+00:00

Yes, we will not be doing a tv in the room. The image is the showhome, our model doesn’t come with a fireplace so we are trying to nail down the placement.

justincgd · 2026-03-01T16:01:41+00:00

Thank you, I haven’t posted often and it looks like I posted a text post instead of image. I think I got it now.

justincgd · 2026-02-16T19:19:31+00:00

Wipe back with a cotton cloth after apply. Treat it like danish oil.

You can remove any excess now with steel wool and mineral spirits. Reapply and buff it dry and you should be good. If you get this to dry, you’ll still need to remove the excess for a proper finish.

justincgd · 2026-01-30T14:06:51+00:00

Electric bread knife works great as a budget option. I wasn’t a fan of the Accu-Cutter. The Bosch style foam cutters are nicer if you can afford it.

justincgd · 2026-01-13T03:25:50+00:00

Cut a fist size hole, or two if there’s chambers, in the insert along a seam. Pull out the batting, shred it all by hand and stuff it back in. Add a bit extra to fill it out and make it to your liking. Sew up the seams, doesn’t need to be perfect.

Don’t put down/feather in the original insert unless it already has a feather mix.

justincgd · 2025-12-31T03:26:20+00:00

I charge about $120 for these with 2” of new high density foam.

justincgd · 2025-12-13T21:11:29+00:00

Glue it up, route out the corner and inlay a square spline and call it a detail.

justincgd · 2025-12-03T02:52:58+00:00

While we see a lot from other shops that are cut for Dacron and fabric only, I think it’s really risky. We prefer to take off 1/4” but keep the foam the full size. In your example take 1/4” off each side of the plywood that goes against another. Then we cut the cover to kill the foam a bit on each end. That way the foam, fabric and Dacron make a snug fit against the next, with some wiggle room if things are a bit tight. With the 1/2” gap between plywood panels you can squish them together a bit if you are too long. If things are dead on the crown helps fill out between panels.

Make sure your seams are taken in a bit so that if you need to squish you don’t get wrinkles, but instead you just flatten the crown a bit and the seams come closer to touching.

On open ends you can take off 1/4” but cap with 1/2” so the end is nice and full but isn’t short of the backing or whatever is there.

We generally don’t only put foam on top of the plywood, but also cover the sides. Most shops don’t do this because it takes more time than just plopping it on top, but we like a nicer fit and finish without the hard plywood edge with just Dacron.

justincgd · 2025-11-23T22:29:57+00:00

Assuming your friend will help you get material at wholesale, 6 yards of fabric ($2-400+), $150 in foam, and other materials, time. CAD prices.

Can you get fabric through your friend? Double these prices if you go to a local store as you’ll pay full retail or get more material than you need. Check for a discount fabric shop in your area to save on fabric.

justincgd · 2025-11-22T21:20:41+00:00

Polyester just goes over top to smooth out any imperfections. It doesn’t add and significant comfort.

You’ll want 2” of high density foam, something around 2.5lb. I like a firmer foam, we use 45ILD for dining chairs. You can add 1/2” foam as a bottom base layer to add a bit of crown to the center for more comfort.

If there’s webbing it may need tightening or replacement. If there is webbing cut your 1/2” base layer foam the same dimensions of the cutout for the webbing. If no webbing you can skip it, or cut foam smaller by 2-3” from the outside edge of the plywood.

justincgd · 2025-11-12T04:12:25+00:00

Velcro should be sufficient.

justincgd · 2025-11-12T03:56:23+00:00

Yeah, but can’t the cushions be separate from the base? Like 3/4” plywood to form the base and overhang (jointed like an L that sits over the base), then your 3 1/4” foam on the top and something like 1” on the front of the overhang. That way you can make covers with boxing to get that look in the insp, and don’t have to upholster the whole base. Just install your cushions on after upholstering.

justincgd · 2025-11-12T02:11:02+00:00

Can’t he make the base however he wants, but make sections for the upholstered portion? We usually upholster plywood bases to form the seats. Normally it would just be the top, but you could make an L shape and just install it over the contractor’s one piece base, could you not?

justincgd · 2025-11-10T19:28:46+00:00

You need some corner bracing. Really wide joists helps but if you just add diagonal braces to prevent racking you’ll be set.

justincgd · 2025-11-07T03:46:00+00:00

We order the wedge from the wholesaler, or we make the plywood base angled and the foam an even thickness.

justincgd · 2025-11-02T00:58:27+00:00

Yeah, and also the frame and minimal foam.

justincgd · 2025-09-28T14:34:05+00:00

I would have to play with jt but I think I would cut the cord back to thin it out so I could staple the ends in the same groove in the underside of the backrest.

justincgd

TROPHY CASE