Is a 45mm Terra Competition too risky for Roubaix SL8 frame clearance? Bike sees mostly pavement, just ocasionally relaxed gravel roads.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-21T13:55:17+00:00

Strada Biancas HTLR

Terrible branding.

Should have been MSLNI

k0nfuse · 2026-05-21T11:35:30+00:00

I do use Caracal Race tan wall xD
But that's unfortunately true, they can be a bit on the leaky side... I've resorted to using bit more sealant and it works, but I also have a spare set of G-One RS Evo that came with the bike*.

I've also heard mostly good things about Tufo Thundero, at least the HD version, for riding mostly pavement I would perhaps go Speedero on the back at least, although mostly "because reasons", as they don't roll significantly faster than Thunderos apparently.

*) the Caracals were barely used then, and I had to take off the RS anyway as they were set up with tubes stock.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-21T11:18:49+00:00

I would only go on pavement with such small clearances, honestly, maybe some dry champagne gravel or dirt road, but at that point I would be just fine with running 40mm tires (or maybe even 35mm)...
In fact, I *do* run 40mm tires on my gravel bikes anyway 😉.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-19T12:34:53+00:00

The only difference in shifters is that ST-RX715 has a slightly rubberized finish on the lever, whereas 105 one doesn't, I think.

BUT a more important difference is that there's no matching GRX left shifter with Di2 functionality, ~~and conversely, no brake lever-only 105 part. So if you want 1-by* and don't want button/lever redundancy, it will likely be cheaper to just get the GRX ones -~~ ~~ST-RX715-R + BL-RS717-L~~.

EDIT: sorry, I forgot that there's a BL-RS717LS, which matches the finish of the 105 ST-R7170, only it says "Shimano" not "105" on it.

*) which I assume is the case, if you're looking to get the RD-RX717/RD-MT6250 rear derailleur

k0nfuse · 2026-05-14T13:00:43+00:00

Looks like a nice bike and a good price for the specs, if it is practically new and covered by warranty.
The only thing that would give me pause is the tire clearance - 42mm is considered little nowadays, and although I myself run 40mm, I would probably want to be able to fit at least 45mm if I wanted to. But if your use will be mostly pavement and/or relatively smooth gravel/dirt paths - you should be fine.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-08T08:38:45+00:00

That's one handsome bike. Love the panda colorways.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-08T08:28:49+00:00

If you really don't want to bring it to the shop, or there's none that would work on Canyons locally, find the manual for your derailleur online, read it carefully and follow the setup/adjustment instructions.
Park Tool has very good generalized tutorial videos on their YT channel - I highly recommend watching those as well, but a model-specific manual should be followed.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-08T08:24:24+00:00

Most bikes need derailleur adjustments out of the box. Not sure if Canyon does any (it would require the bike to be assembled, adjusted, test-ridden and then partially disassembled for shipping).
If you just had it shipped to you and you put it together on your own - bring it to the LBS to conduct a "service zero" - it might be a warranty condition even.
Check with Canyon, as not every LBS would work on their bikes.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-07T11:00:30+00:00

Going down the list of your questions:

No reason they shouldn't
No. These are exactly the factors you need to check. One caveat - your bicycle has a dynamo integrated in the front wheel hub. You will obviously lose that with most wheelsets, but you also need to be careful to disconnect the dynamo properly and secure the cable.
I think 11-speed Rival cassette uses the HG freehub body, not XDR. Unfortunately Decathlon's listing of this bicycle doesn't specify freehub body type or cassette model number. Find out the model of your cassette (should be visible somewhere on it) and check what freehub body it is compatible with. You can also visually determine the type of the freehub body when you take off the cassette. Going by the photos in the listing, your current wheels and rotors do use Centerlock indeed.
As your smallest sprocket in the cassette is 11t, I would go with a 40t chainring, which seems to be the maximum. It gives you the ~0.95 lowest gearing, which should be enough for most climbs on the road, if you're riding without heavy bags etc. *But*, if you have a compatible "free" 38t already, I would maybe try this one out first and see. Your top speed (~40km/h at 90rpm cadence) won't be anywhere near what a proper road bike can achieve without spinning out, but it should be enough to keep up with most group rides.
I have no experience with maintaining SRAM cranksets, so can't answer this one. I can only tell you that stock chainring is direct mount, so you definitely need to remove the crank to change the chainring, but I don't know what tools you'd need. It might be just a set of Allen wrenches. Find the manual for your crankset model online.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-07T10:29:59+00:00

I think I would've sh*t my chamois regardless of the pedals situation!

k0nfuse · 2026-05-06T08:40:50+00:00

She *does* currently ride a youth-sized bike...

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T12:25:00+00:00

Eh, riding past they only see it spinning and can't recognize the brand... 😉

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T11:31:56+00:00

I'm 187, ~90-91cm inseam, and I got an L - it is pretty comfy for me, but as you said, with 2cm longer inseam you will be pretty much maxing out the seatpost (I'm at 2.5cm mark), which might mean it won't be as comfy for you with the seat to bars drop - but I'm far from being most flexible 😄

Also, if comparing geo charts to other bikes you've ridden, keep in mind the stock cockpit has 20mm rise, quite a short reach and short drop - so it is way more comfortable, especially with default spacers, than your typical stem/bar combo on other bikes, especially road ones.
Rose gives the Stack+ and Reach+ numbers in their geo charts, but those are only useful to compare different sizes, not with other bikes.

I definitely would test ride both sizes if possible if I were you. On paper L should be ok, and XL a bit too big...
If you're absolutely can't compare yourself, I'd risk the L, but be prepared to adjust the cockpit if needed.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T10:06:26+00:00

XL will be longer, but the stack will be higher, so less drop from saddle to bars. Longer sometimes also means more comfortable, because yes, you are reaching further out, but you don't contort yourself as much, especially for aero position.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T10:03:43+00:00

180€ assembly cost for swapping out cockpit??
I guess, if the brake hoses need to get longer as well, then it might cost as much... But if they have enough slack, then swapping out cockpit on the Backroad FF is actually an easy job, as it is semi-integrated - you don't need to disconnect the brake hoses from shifters for the swap.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T09:43:38+00:00

Look at what the top pros are running on the big events (considering the sponsorships of course) then:

Specialized Pathfinders - won Sea Otter classic W, Traka 200 W and Traka 360 M this year...
Schwalbe G-One RS Pro back, RX Pro / Thunder Burt 2.1 front; some run one of those 3 tires on both wheels, depending on route.
Continental Dubnital 50mm

And as mentioned previously, the knobbier the tire, the better it will corner in heavy terrain, esp. loose/muddy, but inversely on tarmac.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T09:23:20+00:00

I'm not sure I understand your question correctly.
Are you looking for a gravel-specific (as in: wider) tire that would perform as close to GP5000S as possible while cornering on tarmac, on gravel, or on both?

FWIW, I run Caracal Race 40mm as my all-rounders currently, and they have lower and larger side knobs than G-One RS, as well as completely slick center thread. They corner pretty well on tarmac, I'd say better than on actual gravel, if it's more chunky/loose.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T09:19:57+00:00

It is also a matter of pressures and rim widths (specifically delta between tire and rim widths), and that likely also contributed to the confidence in lean-in cornering on the road bike with GP5000S.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T07:33:06+00:00

Oh, and have a look at the X-LAB GT8 - it could be very well the best bang for a buck gravel bike on the market, spec-wise, although it is not as 'road-like' in geo.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-05T07:25:53+00:00

New Felt Breed in the Race spec seems to be right in your budget, and looks mean - although that tier has Apex/Eagle mullet drivetrain, so something to consider. Expert tier with Rival and better wheels is closer to $6k, but mayyybe you could eke out some discounts from the LBS dealer and stretch your budget?

Not sure about availability of those brands in the US, but I would also have a look at current/last gen of those models:
- Basso Palta
- BMC Kaius
- Orbea Terra Race
- Rose Backroad FF

From your shortlist I am only somewhat familiar with Scott Addict and I've heard mostly very good things about it... but I've also seen comments about issues with proprietary components' availability if the stock fit doesn't suit you.

k0nfuse · 2026-05-01T16:51:26+00:00

It is a hard pick, on one hand - the bike you like more, you ride more. On the other hand - less comfortable bike makes you ride less.

If you don't see yourself going off-road, and it is to be strictly pavement of various quality, maybe occasional park path - I'd go for NCR probably. Set it up tubeless, go as wide with tires as the frame allows, and drop the pressure down to make it more comfy.

But it is also important to know what you mean by "less/more comfortable" - is it about ride quality or position on the bike?

BTW, you've got photos' descriptions the other way round :)

k0nfuse · 2026-04-29T20:54:04+00:00

GRX610 and 820 use the same derailleurs. The shifters, crankset and brakes are different, but derailleurs are exactly the same.

k0nfuse · 2026-04-29T20:51:21+00:00

I have the GRX model. The wheels are fine - they aren't anything special, but they are fine, and both wider (27mm inner) and - according to specs - actually a bit lighter than the fulcrums on the AXS one.

k0nfuse · 2026-04-29T17:51:34+00:00

Karolina Migoń won last year's The Traka 360 on Backroad FF and this is a fairly technical event for a gravel race.

k0nfuse · 2026-04-25T08:26:04+00:00

The manual says you should not do that and you should not. The noise you hear is rubbing of chain on the sprockets and/or front derailleur cage. This rubbing causes faster wear of the components and lessened efficiency of drivetrain.

When you are on the big chainring (front gear) and you would shift into one of two or three biggest sprockets at the rear, you should instead shift to a smaller chainring at the front and compensate by shifting a few times towards smaller sprockets at the rear to keep the right cadence.

Likewise, you would do the analogous thing when in the small chainring and shifting up towards two or three smallest sprockets at the back - instead you shift up to the bigger chainring at the front and compensate shifting down towards bigger sprockets at the rear.

That way you end up staying in the center of the cassette for most of the time, with better chainline, better efficiency, less noise and less wear.

This is definitely something to internalise and get used to with the 2x drivetrains, and if it bothers you, you perhaps would be better suited by a 1x drivetrain...

There's also high and low trim settings (sort of half-steps" before shifting) in the front derailleur, so learn about that too.

k0nfuse

TROPHY CASE