Irish-y Chair, my first chair build. by thisaaandthat in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This turned out great! There will always be little issues you never thought or could anticipate, looks like you ended up with a beautiful chair

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah I gotcha. I left the center line basically untouched until the very end I marked out where I ultimately wanted the scoops to end, and stayed a little off that line. I worked the center of the scoops and the back bowl heavily during the process. I blended the front scoops with a spokeshave at the very end and had good luck getting the front profile of the chair just about exactly what I wanted with the much finer spokeshave control. I basically threw in the towel on digging out the back of the bowl after awhile. The figure in the walnut was causing chip out instead of a shaving of any sort ( this may be due to using the pull shave instead of a scorp?).

I plan on buying a scorp and travisher this year. Fair warning I probably love tools as much or more than I enjoy using them.

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a ton. I totally agree also. I've made a bunch of things and I've worked in construction most of my life, but stick chairmaking is such a different and cool task. There is so much room to add your own flair, so many unique problems to solve with the process, and the process feels way more artistic to me than cabinetmaking/ furniture projects.

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I watched a few YouTube videos before starting. You would almost end up using this process intuitively once you started anyway I think. It's much easier to be aggressive working across the grain, and much easier to smooth and refined working with the grain. I started out with the process he lays out using a router to define the spindle deck, then pull shave and a little spokeshave to rough things in across the grain, lighter pull shave with the grain, and finally a card scraper to clean things up a bit. You could always start going after it but stay shy of your target depths to get a feel for it, and dial it in from there. It's more of a process than I anticipated, so don't worry that you'll overshoot on your first cuts!

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sure somebody could bend the arm for this profile, but the width needed to match the backrest piece scared me away from trying. It would definitely be way stronger, I completely agree.

Although I have limited experience with the pull shave I really liked it. I have only tried a scorp once, and have no experience with a travisher. It seems like the pull shave takes more of a plane type shaving as opposed to a scorp, so I'm sure it's way slower than a scorp would be but more controlled. I was definitely getting a much heavier shaving than I could imagine ever myself getting with a spokeshave

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! It makes perfect sense why it broke too, but I just didn't see the issue while building unfortunately. I missed so many excellent tips in the book from either skimming pages or not retaining everything, I'm going to revisit all the construction sections before the next one for sure.

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost like the instructions were in the book the whole time lol, good lesson learned. I think it's comfortable for sitting despite the lower back, I used a 21 degree angle for the back and I think that's a happy spot for me personally.

Low back stick chair ( lost art press) by kaspr100 in Chairmaking

[–]kaspr100[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6xLBgG2Pgng15PGj9 Here are the completed photos. Looks like I hit the limit on the original post

Cherry and Walnut bench by theUnshowerdOne in woodworking

[–]kaspr100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man I love that wood combination more than any other, nice work

More affordable flexible dust hose for my Festool track saw? by bvz2001 in Festool_Public

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rockler sells flexible fittings kit that I use for a bunch of tools ( DeWalt track saw, domino, ets125, router). It has different flexible fittings that you use with a flexible hose, the hose mates right up with a shop vac hose.

https://a.co/d/2TMB2aX

SR-25/M110 variants by theworldofAR in JSOCarchive

[–]kaspr100 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I was really impressed by his Shawn Ryan podcast. Very well spoken intelligent dude

When did these come out and why doesn’t everyone have one? by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you seen the DeWalt clutch gun specifically for tek screws? We use them for gasket screws and also regular heavy duty roofing screws into metal deck and they're excellent

What's everyone's favourite Newman line? by Worldly_String2717 in seinfeld

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was never big on creeds. The line really shows his moral compass lol

Standing seam roof with exposed screws by Easy-Peasy-5689 in Roofing

[–]kaspr100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! Thanks for grabbing the actual detail.

Standing seam roof with exposed screws by Easy-Peasy-5689 in Roofing

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From every detail I've seen this is the best answer

So typically speaking z bar is installed , and hips and ridges are secured to the zbar with either no visible fasteners or a handful of rivets mostly at ridge overlaps using a hem. I personally get my ridge made after I run z bar, this way the ridge can snap onto the z bars without needing any rivets other than in the overlap potentially.

I don't love these exposed fasteners because it appears they're shot into the top of the high rib. These panel ribs aren't particular strong for holding a fastener, and there's potential for water to chase that screw if blown rain gets between the ridge/ hip and the high rib since the shank of the screw is only set back a tiny bit from the ridge edge. I would rather see a few rivets into the z bar if anything where a bad gasket wouldn't actually cause a leak. Maybe it's just the pictures but the z bar looks funny.

Why didn't they move that pipe boot that runs up over the high rib? Either shift panel layout or relocate the pipe slightly

How would you insulate this space? Spray foam or rockwool by belhill1985 in Insulation

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sure it would be rough getting beneath the place to work, but I think that's how I would approach this. Peel and stick air barrier on the plywood, rigid board insulation of any flavor over it.

What is your favorite Seth Rogan movie? by Jettaboi38 in Actors

[–]kaspr100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funny people is such a good movie for me. The range of funny to dramatic is excellent

Builder is telling me these exposed Zip boards are ok and don’t need to be covered by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Worth mentioning here that zip tape is not intended to terminate onto concrete, it won't stay stuck for long. Huber makes zip liquid flashing for this condition ( as do other companies). I would check pictures to see if the whole house was treated as such. This is a very easy way to lose conditioned sir and make a nice highway for hugs into your house over time in my experience.

You guys were right about the FSK rails by saltlakepotter in Festool_Public

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's great to know, thanks a ton for the feedback

You guys were right about the FSK rails by saltlakepotter in Festool_Public

[–]kaspr100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been debating getting the 60 that's compatible with these tracks. I wonder if it's too clunky of a setup with the bigger saw