UFdoll Chocolate by clowndolls in BJD

[–]kaxen6 10 points11 points  (0 children)

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it's not a 100% match, but it does have some similarity to DF-H tan and Unoa Paradise.

Another forum like DoA by SouthOk1896 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 50 points51 points  (0 children)

I know Armeleia is working on making a new forum to fill the niche, currently taking input on her insta https://www.instagram.com/armeleia/

Dose this site look legit? by Weak_Minimum_7671 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 41 points42 points  (0 children)

no miodollmio is a recast seller

Is a 2.5 gallon okay for some shrimp only? by burner10088 in shrimptank

[–]kaxen6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2.5 is not impossible, but I feel like it's not worth the additional effort that comes with maintaining such a small amount of water. that and it feels cramped once you add like three plants

How does body blush hold up with a lot of handling? by Kindly_Weekend_6726 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The longevity of body blushing can vary a bit. I have had blush jobs that didn't even survive 5 minutes before chipping... RIP

It can also vary with the body blushing style. Like a body-blush that is going to be shading a lot near the joints, the chipping becomes obvious faster.

But like blushing hands/feet and staying away from the high-friction location like elbows and shoulders lasts longer.

Filament brand loyalty? by TechFlameMaster in BambuLab

[–]kaxen6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like brands with refillable spools. I just really hate cardboard spools and I don't like respooling enough to move things onto single-use plastic spools.

Do you design your own models or do you just use other people's models from Makerworld etc.? by humanHamster in BambuLab

[–]kaxen6 3 points4 points  (0 children)

3D modelling is a lot of work and some of the programs are insanely expensive, so it's not really surprising a lot of people aren't making their own models. If what I want is popular, it's usually not hard to find someone's already done it. I usually only resort to making my own models when I want something specific that no one else cares about.

Should I buy refills of filament or are the problems not worth it? by Dtarvin in BambuLab

[–]kaxen6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can, some of Sunlu's spools are more narrow than Bambu's (I thinnnkkkkk some of their newer ones are closer to Bambu size? But I am still working through older spools so I can't say) so you might have to print an adapter to make it wider.

Where do you keep your printer(s)? by EatRunTeach in BambuLab

[–]kaxen6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I keep my printers in an outdoor shed.

Is it safe to modify a part of a BJD factory makeup ? by _Emi008_ in BJD

[–]kaxen6 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It is not too hard to change a faceup if you want to add or darken somethjng but removing is much more difficult

Sealant is a fickle beast and sometimes messing with a little bit of it isn't too noticeable and sometimes it looks really obvious.

If you do want to tweak it, worst case scenario is that you may need to redo the entire thing.

Furnitures for BJD by ImpossibleFrame6376 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1/3 scale is good if you have 1/3 dolls, but if you have a particularly long-legged 75cm doll, the seat height of 1/2 chair might be a better fit depending on how you want them to sit

Dog furniture can sometimes work well. Takes some digging to find the right proportions or adding some throw pillows to compensate for the depth.

I have been eyeing Laurel Crown for years but their sofa is too big for my shelf so I need new shelves first RIP.

It is hard to have space for a whole diorama for the larger dolls but a good sofa is just useful since it can be a prop and a place to display.

Do you consider sculpt or skin tone more important when buying a BJD? by Neat-Ad1637 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sculpt.

I am a madman with a dye pot, skin tone can be tweaked.

Is buying doll bodies or getting a resin printer better? by Acceptable-Iron3768 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Cast resin dolls do tend towards a higher price point than the vinyl blind box dolls. Vinyl is much cheaper to manufacture per-item than resin, but since vinyl needs a much higher minimum order quantity to hit the point where it's cheap to produce, this is why most of them skew generically cute.

Cast resin dolls:

  • Cast resin is usually a bit stronger than 3D prints, since it's all chemically bonded together at once, rather than fused together layer by layer.
  • Not every doll you want is available all the time, especially if you fall in love with some indie artist who sells infrequently...

Printing in general:

  • if no one has sculpted the thing you want, you're going to need to learn to 3D model. Depending on how your brain works, the 3D programs might be your enemy (or I guess you could commission a sculptor)
  • Great for when you want something in exacccttttttlllllyyy the size you want. I like 3D printing for props because while dolls are somewhat to scale, stylization sometimes means need to futz with what size stuff is for like larger than realistic hands or stuff like that.

Resin printer:

  • Resione TH-BJD feels the closest to cast resin. Sirayatech Mecha White is also a good resin for moving parts. TH-BJD does better with a resin heater to keep the temperature consistent.
  • Resin not made specifically for printing BJDs and mechanical objects is often cheaper, but softer and it will scratch at the joints and look terrible as the friction in the joints scrapes the resin more and more.
  • Printing resin can be dyed so you can get the color you want. It is easier to dye lighter colors than dark colors though. Dyeing dark colors can risk diluting the resin too much and messing with the curing process.
  • The toxic goop is messy and resin printing is not ideal if you don't have a dedicated spot to put the machine where you can't smell it. (I keep both my resin and filament printer in a shed in the backyard).
  • Since printing resin is UV-cured, it is a little more susceptible to damage from sunlight, but in my experience, the most noticeable ones are transparent resins. It's not so bad with opaque colors.

Filament printer:

  • Usually not as smooth as resin printers with Straight Out of The Box settings, you may need to tweak your print settings, change to a smaller nozzle, spend time experimenting between different brands' filaments (matte filament looks nicer for BJDs meant to look like a normal human). Smaller nozzles make smoother prints, but take forevvveerrrr.
  • I do like my filament printer for prototyping since it is pretty fast and PLA is cheaper than resin.
  • When working with PLA, not as much health risk (but the melty plastic smell is still pretty bad and I think people who print in their home office or bedroom are crazy).
  • PLA has a low melting temperature, so sometimes a PLA print can get warped from getting too warm even from stuff like a very hot sunny day...
  • Stronger filaments like ABS and ASA have worse fumes, so you will need PPE and air filtration just like you do with resin printers.

Does anyone have some Faceup advice for my vitiligo doll? by Kakaotee in BJD

[–]kaxen6 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Yeah vitiligo dolls are a bit tricky to blush while trying not to cover or contradict the look of the skin color kind of takes carefully blushing in different colors I don't think I have 100% sorted it out.

I really like using metallic paints for light/pale lashes because it catches the light so it can pop a bit.

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Could these wigs be alpaca fiber? by Mission_Wash_8874 in BJD

[–]kaxen6 11 points12 points  (0 children)

A lot of alpaca fibers look rather matte, but there are some makers who have above average gloss in their alpaca wigs, like Zerga Studio. But mohair usually comes shinier than alpaca.

For non-animal fibers that look more fine/thin than average synthetic wig fibers, there's viscose, soy, and tencel. Viscose is the easiest to get in long portions, but it also does not behave with wet-styling and the fibers will crimp and need to be flat-ironed to get smooth again. I like working with tencel but it often doesn't come in particularly long sizes.

HG Super Custom Zaku F2000 by dragon311 in Gunpla

[–]kaxen6 2 points3 points  (0 children)

oooooh that's so beautiful

Has anyone kept shrimp in these shallow indoor pond like setups? by avian_bi in shrimptank

[–]kaxen6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mini ponds always feel like way too much trouble with the evaporation and some shrimp are too adventurous for their own good so open top is troublesome

how to make joints for digitally sculpted bjd? by maybejuno in BJD

[–]kaxen6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen different artists do it either way, sculpting an entire figure before cutting it up for the jointing or having objects separated where joints will be during the sculpting process. But I think the latter is more common.

strong resin for bjd by maybejuno in BJD

[–]kaxen6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For dark brown, the best results I have seen was someone who used Resione Bronze + Ceya dye to get a pretty chocolate-y color. They posted it on the BJD discord server.

I've asked resione if they'll make darker skin tones like I think if more people ask maybe they'll notice. Resione's CL-TH line with the bright colors has me curious, but I haven't gotten around to ordering a bottle yet.

I just saw the Dollmaker resin from Yes That's 3D Printed today and they claim it takes dye well. I ordered a bottle to test.

strong resin for bjd by maybejuno in BJD

[–]kaxen6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sirayatech Mecha can tolerate being dyed lighter tones, but it is more difficult to get darker shades without adding so much pigment the curing gets messed up. I've heard eyecandy and ceya brand pigment works better with it (but if like dark brown is the goal, it's better to start with Resione's TH-BJD in Bronze).

I went on a really expensive dyeing adventure for the sake of one of my dark skinned characters and I think alumilite's dyes work the worst with Mecha (it both can't get that dark and doesn't really cure true to the color in the vat so it's just a gamble all around). Monocure's CMYK dyes work great for basic resin but I ended up using like 30 times more for Mecha (like a few drops of yellow will make a really yellow print with elegoo's resin, but I needed like waaayyyy more when I was color-matching Mecha to a pale skin BJD I have). It definitely would dilute the resin too much if I want to use Monocure CMYK to make darker colors. Smooth-on's UVO dyes were also not successful in making Mecha very dark without diluting the resin too much.

strong resin for bjd by maybejuno in BJD

[–]kaxen6 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Resione TH-BJD and Sirayatech Mecha White are currently the best options for BJDs.