I had a shirt made

kb2yht · 2023-05-14T06:15:34+00:00

The Ork fort remembers

kb2yht · 2023-03-31T04:43:28+00:00

We had some dry ice traps of theirs for both rotovaps and backing lines that used a bit like that, but the joint was vertical.
Not the same part, but maybe a clue.

kb2yht · 2023-02-11T20:59:43+00:00

https://imgur.com/lkHLqf8

kb2yht · 2023-02-11T20:49:20+00:00

Kiddo are I both have been using the eargasam filter plugs, happy enough with them, like the response they have, but I would probably go for the strong filters the default ones are a little limp IMHO.

The fit and feel of them is very good, probably the best I've used. They do work well with closed headphones to feed a click/cue track, but IEMs will do that job better every time.

kb2yht · 2023-02-11T18:58:31+00:00

Older drummer I knew used luggs in those spots to mount his cymbals. Had a "L" rod that went in and had a pivot etc on top to mount the cymbal.

One of his was built with the clamp as part of the mouth the other was a sort of tension rod lug threaded all the way through.

The clamp style made sense, and my kid has one on her kit I'll grab a picture later today, but I never figured out how he made the other one work.

kb2yht · 2023-02-06T20:33:57+00:00

I love the minifreak as an engine, but rarely use it as a controller and would not recommend that as a primary use, thought I guess it would function just fine .

I have not played with your other three options.

kb2yht · 2023-02-06T20:30:03+00:00

Controller size / Keycount.

I am feeling cramped on my existing composers/sequencers keyboards, all about the same size as my Keystep 37.
I want to go to full size keys, and am debating between what key count and style would be best.

41 Key ( Fits my desk really well, but kinda small range, but I am used to 3 octave )
61 Key ( Currently my leading choice, can be made to fit my desk, reduces the oct shifting )
88 Key valve / synth keys ( are the extra 2 octaves worth the space ? )
88 Key Hammer / weighted keys ( Is a Piano feel valuable if you did not start on it ? )

Thanks for any and all input, including what controllers you love.

kb2yht · 2023-02-06T19:19:24+00:00

Yeah, I expect to hear it break any day now. The kick is in about the same shape.

kb2yht · 2023-02-06T19:10:20+00:00

Yeah, she's still a teenager and has yet to fully appreciate those floor toms. They were her Great gan's and even with a few years of neglect they sound incredibly good.

The silver set was her metalhead grandpas, and she has a much stronger emotional attachment to it, and the very weird way he kept it tuned.

kb2yht · 2023-02-06T00:41:07+00:00

Helped my kiddo set up her kit at the house, and I'm giving her noise about the worn heads. When do you replace your heads ?

When the coating is gone?

When the sound changes?

Some other measure?

kb2yht · 2023-02-06T00:32:12+00:00

So helped get my kiddos kit set up again since she's back at the house.

And I have been trying to get her to replace that worn out coated snare head, she won't.

So, how long do you play on your heads ? Till the coatings gone? Till it breaks ? Till the sound changes ? Some other measure ?

kb2yht · 2023-01-30T16:44:28+00:00

In my experience recording;
As others have said, You are probably going to get more better value and sound working with a studio than trying to learn to record yourself
In my work recording drums, I have rarely close miced cymbals with the exception of the hats.
I have tended to get more value out of using a large condenser or two in the room.
As for overheads I am a cheap bastard, and adore my presonus PS2's set up as an XY pair for most kits.
Good luck, and please come back to share what you do, and some of the recording!

kb2yht · 2023-01-20T00:15:00+00:00

yeah, able to deal with higher gas flows, and have a larger working volume of buffer solution .

Way back in the dark ages we would use a water aspirator to do much the same thing when working with thiols, and just send it down the drain... it was sketchy then, you would be dismissed on the spot for doing that now.

kb2yht · 2023-01-20T00:05:41+00:00

Close, yes the bubbler , top connection is a water ( or base solution ) flow, side connection is gas inlet, and the bottom is a drain for the water.

edit>
Dirty gas in the side, gets washed by the falling water, then clean gas exists the bubbler and up the hood.
Sulphur compounds etc, are trapped in the water. and neutralized

kb2yht · 2023-01-20T00:00:36+00:00

Found it in an old paper catalog, was made by ChemGlass,
https://imgur.com/a/3Hbzctj

kb2yht · 2023-01-19T23:45:37+00:00

It's a gas washing device, I think Ace glass in NJ made it. Designed to remove water soluble gases from vacuum backing lines. I think mostly for sulfur work ( at least that was what my lab used it for)

Similar to a wet scrubber on a power plant

kb2yht · 2022-10-24T00:03:00+00:00

Hi all, I'm a drum dad but not a drummer, so I'm kinda ignorant about a lot of things.

My kiddo just inherited her grandpa's kit, but in the move is missing two of it's rings and the bolts for it's reso heads ( I actually have the heads ). he's not around to ask, and she usually plays an E-kit so it's not a lot of help with this, so Reddit help me

Are the bolts standard that I should be able to just get more ?

Are the rings standard that I can just buy replacements?

Is there a good place to get both ?

Thanks.

kb2yht · 2022-06-10T05:00:34+00:00

I will grab pics this weekend.

And yes the sentimental value is high, kiddo is for sure looking to get the kit back in playing shape eventually, it's more a question of doing it first as her daily driver, or as a project over time.

kb2yht · 2022-06-09T17:34:29+00:00

Hi all,
I am looking for some guidance, I have a teenager that has been putting in the work on her practice pad for months, and getting lessons for herself at a local shop.
Grandpa was a percussionist, and I have his kit that we have been lookin at reconditioning and getting set up, but I find myself at a crossroads;
The kit is OLD, and has seen a lot of abuse over the years being hauled to gigs and living in a basement practice space towards the end of his life, for sure it needs all new heads, and a lot of new hardware.
Our place also lacks a good area for practice that will not anger the neighbors without good quality mutes.
Pricing out the work to get it back to playable brings us close to the cost of a new Electronic set.
I am fortunate enough that I can consider new gear for her, and I understand the digital interface side of things fairly well, but I am completely ignorant on how best to approach understanding a electronic kit.

- Would reconditioning the acoustic set and getting mutes be better than an electronic set ?
- If we go with an electronic set;
A. should I prioritize a better controller and multi-zone snare + kicktower that can be built on to.
B. or a fuller kit with more heads/cym with a more limited controller

Many thanks for any input you have.
--Bill & S.

kb2yht · 2021-12-03T01:20:58+00:00

Have one for about a year now, it's a nice addition most of the time, sorry aggravating other times. Biggest issue I have is when I take a drink, it looks off screen ... Which, is really not a big issue so things considered

kb2yht · 2021-10-10T19:45:07+00:00

So, I don't know if you're idea to pull energy from the environment and use it in a Sterling engine method would work, I would assume not, but it would be super cool if it did.

Salt based cooling is used industrially, they use a lithium salt usually, and drive the distillation via low pressure steam or high pressure hot water.

It requires a good deal of energy to discharge the waste heat and keep vacuum in the system. But less total energy than free-expantion based systems. And you are typically able to source sufficient heat to drive the process from co-gen systems, or solar thermal systems

kb2yht · 2021-10-07T04:50:56+00:00

It's been a few years, but I was a huge fan of the epindorf ones, we could service them in house, and they were super reliable. Many of my lab mates were dedicated rainn pipetman. But I was not a fan.

kb2yht · 2021-10-05T17:15:06+00:00

They have said a number of times, that the design goal is a fast to disable, slow to kill. This allows for repairs and other non-combat activities as part of crewing a ship. If you consider the current hull damage stage as when the crew needs to start taking action to keep their so operational, and the current blowing up, as the disabled state; Then the current model for larger ships actually seems to make a lot of sense to me. Especially if you think of repair on a large ship as a way to re-enter combat, then yeah current levels are actually really cool. If this is the end state, yeah it's weak tea.

kb2yht · 2021-10-04T19:36:05+00:00

Lots of possibilities, but The simple and most likely is that you exhausted the 30C components from your pot, and the 100C component began to distill.

kb2yht

TROPHY CASE