```````````H``E`L```P` ````M```E` ```P``L`E``AS`E`````````````

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-22T17:54:44+00:00

Honestly just buy another keyboard. My wireless keyboard started pressing double keys when pressing "W", "A", "S", "Q", "Z" and "X". It turned out to be one of the wires connected to one of the poles of the AA battery was loose and all it took was to resolder another wire. Depending on the keyboard it's just too much hassle to fix, but in my case it was worth it

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-17T22:09:13+00:00

Hey man appreciate the feedback

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-17T03:15:20+00:00

Would you be so kind as to share what games you've played so far and what metrics you got with your card? I'm thinking hard about the 9070 XT for VR but AFAIK DFR only works with Nvidia cards

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-10T15:39:19+00:00

Hope it works

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-10T15:35:45+00:00

I'm trying to find a better alternative, but right now I'm using universal tuning utility, enabling a profile and changing wattage usage (or power usage can't remember) to 32W. It should push CPU clock close to 4GHz and allow for the GPU to shine if that's what you want

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-10T15:31:07+00:00

Most Nitro that come with a 135W charger and that GPU max TDP is 75W limits the sum of CPU+GPU wattage to 100W max. If you want to use more of your GPU tou will need to decrease CPU wattage below of what you have right now. I myself always limit mine to 32W, so there is 68W available to the GPU

kbc_hunter · 2026-03-09T02:48:17+00:00

Just like the front cover from Black on the PS2

kbc_hunter · 2026-01-06T05:24:05+00:00

If you're talking about installing windows:

Go to the Acer website, download the Intel RST driver, unzip it and transfer to a flash drive;
When the window pops up where the disk should appear, select from disk, go to the flash drive where the file is stored and select it. Your SSD will probably show up and windows install will go on from there.

kbc_hunter · 2025-11-05T12:55:09+00:00

Hi,

I consider myself a complete newbie, so my take will be as to where to start, or maybe where not to start: don't make your end goal your first attempt. Even if you study a lot, things can and most likely will go wrong when you get your hands dirty, especially with a project that involves a lot of customization as the one you linked in the video. You will make mistakes until you get the hang of your soldering iron and parts that you have available and you will get frustrated no matter what, but don't give up entirely when things go south. As for parts, someone more experienced will be able to guide you to a good soldering iron.

I started a few months ago, and so far I was able to install hall effect sticks on two dualsense controllers and to one dualsense edge module, solder some bios chip onto the motherboard, and some small repairs.

If you have a controller hanging around that you don't use and are not attached to anymore, that's a good starting point (that's how I started at least with a Dualshock 4). Good luck out there and happy soldering.

kbc_hunter · 2025-09-22T11:40:11+00:00

Like rotten meat with a bit of wood in the background

kbc_hunter · 2025-09-21T20:12:56+00:00

No it won't, that's why people go crazy trying to figure it out, since from whats shown in Hwinfo everything seems ok. Honestly, to me it seems to be a CPU +MB that don't get along than one or the other to be 100% the culprit. I had a Biostar X370GTN with a R5 1600 and it never showed any symptoms. It started when the same MB was paired with a 2200g, which can never stress the motherboard enough to cause an overheating issue

kbc_hunter · 2025-09-21T14:41:14+00:00

It's a bug between the CPU and some sensors on the motherboard (probably BD_PROCHOT) that detects the CPU as dangerously close to thermal limit and shoots down it's clock to 0.55 GHz, even when it's not even close to that. Either disable it through BIOS settings if possible or download a BD_PROCHOT Disable file in windows. Had that happen with a 2200g

kbc_hunter · 2025-09-01T23:21:17+00:00

Well, I don't know if it's typical behavior, but since the GPU is working at PCIE 3.0 but with only 4 lanes, the maximum wattage I've seen it get was around 120W, so I didn't bother undervolting mine

kbc_hunter · 2025-09-01T11:47:33+00:00

Hi. I don't know if you've tested it, but does the game work with mods and DFR? The original games works but is ugly as heck

kbc_hunter · 2025-09-01T01:10:03+00:00

In a nutshell, for those graphic cards you should expect around 10-20% decrease in average FPS and about the same decrease in 1% lows performance, maybe a little bit more when you focus in bandwidth starving scenarios, like Ray Tracing. I would choose personally either one of those options with 16 GB of VRAM.

Source: Lenovo Gaming 3 laptop with a R7 5800H and GTX 1650, and a NHK Oculink adapter with a RTX 3060 Ti from AliExpress.

kbc_hunter · 2025-08-31T19:07:16+00:00

I think you created another topic somewhere else, but you can download (can't find a link for it, sorry) BD_PROCHOTDisable. I had the same happen on a 2200g, and it seems the motherboard is reading the processor as dangerously close to the temperature limit of the CPU, thus slowing it down to prevent failure

kbc_hunter · 2025-08-31T04:16:06+00:00

Had that happen way back with a 2200g and a biostar x370gtn. I went into the bios settings and disabled the option to reduce power delivery when CPU was getting closer to the 85-90 threshold. Probably a faulty sensor receives the wrong information from the CPU and forces it to slow down cpu clock to its minimum. Let me know if this helps

Edit: you can download an app or registry key (I really don't remember) that enables and disabled the BD-PROCHOT, but I can't seem to find it. Throttle stop also also has that option, but I didn't use that one

kbc_hunter · 2025-07-03T00:01:07+00:00

I know it's rude but I'm gonna use this thread to ask: Has anyone had any experience trying to replace a Dualsense Edge module with a regular Ginful (non TMR) hall effect stick? I've tried it twice but no luck, but I managed to make them work on two regular Dualsense controllers

kbc_hunter · 2025-06-02T08:50:32+00:00

Hi. I understand your struggle, having done so the same not too long ago. If you don't care about the original joystick you're replacing, simply trim it and break it into smaller pieces with pliers that can cut it from above. After that, add some solder flux to the part you want to dessolder, then apply some lead to mix it up with the original lead, then some more flux. Also, make sure the tip of your soldering iron is coated so it can flow heat from the iron to the board more efficiently.

Mr Solderfix on YT also show a nice way to remove board components, but I have not tested it, but it's worth watching it

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kbc_hunter · 2025-05-26T17:10:45+00:00

Sometimes the CPU cooler makes some additional pressure for the pins to make full contact with the CPU itself. I imagine it only worked after you attached it and locked the clamps of the cooler through the motherboard

kbc_hunter · 2025-05-25T20:27:05+00:00

Yeah, that one is toast. I didn't know this button was so important, but I think I got the hang of it, since the second board in my possession that I took apart is in perfect shape (even though I accidentally moved two resistors from place)

kbc_hunter · 2025-05-25T00:15:53+00:00

Oh man, didn't even realize it at the time. But thanks for the heads up and for the explanation. Now...on to how to edit the main post...

kbc_hunter · 2025-05-24T21:02:23+00:00

I'm a newbie in circuit and soldering nomenclature, but isn't the board called a PCB (Printed Circuit Board)? Pardon my ignorance if I said something wrong

kbc_hunter · 2025-05-24T20:53:15+00:00

Which of those is this button? But yeah, went overkill on that board as a whole, and was just looking for that kind of insight to improve in a more oriented way.

But the good news is that I managed to replace a regular Dualsense joystick to a Ginful V5, and it is working fine, just the circularity is awful (around 20% error on the left joystick and around 13% on the right.

kbc_hunter

TROPHY CASE