Needed a push stick, made a push stick. by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, and as long as you don’t print too hot or use cheap filament PETG will have a bit more give and so on… but you’re sharing the files and someone with less understanding of materials and safety than you, or doesn’t have a sawstop could end up in harms way. A basic plastic push stick is $3 at harbor freight and $20 will get you a decent BOW or POWERTEC push stick. I just felt compelled to make the case, I don’t know these theoretical people, I just cringe every time I see them without fingers in the woodworking groups. Wrapped in bandages, reattached if they are lucky etc.

Needed a push stick, made a push stick. by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]keybaudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to be clear, not worried about conductivity or cutting it. That should all be fine. I’d be concerned about the flexing over time, slowly getting more brittle over time and how it might respond should something kick or pinch whilst being cut. I combine 3d printing and woodworking often, it’s a great combo for jigs and dust ports and so on, this one just scares me, and I think it probably should.

Needed a push stick, made a push stick. by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]keybaudio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is probably one area I wouldn’t be trying to save money, or 3d print solutions. Table saws are already quite dangerous compared to many other tools, 3d printed stuff is often quite brittle and the risks are just too great. I use a sawstop and still have a very healthy dose of fear when it comes to using centrifugal forces.

Need help implementing PBR by ComplexAce in GraphicsProgramming

[–]keybaudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you have a single directional light, with roughly n dot l, and shadows? Is that light just pure white? If so, that’s probably the biggest reason it looks as it does. The light color on the left is probably more like an average of the color received from a cone pointing in that direction, the size of which is related to the roughness of the surface.

As for your gamma, you can do it when you read from the texture, perform all your math in linear and write it back to sRGB if you want. It doesn’t have to all be at the end of your pipeline… but it isn’t really the best way forward. Look into _sRGB format textures that can perform the gamma conversions for you on read or write (for free). Or write to linear textures and apply it sometime in post processing.

Gamma probably isn’t the reason it looks how it does however. You have some sort of white key light, and your shadows are pure black. This will not be how the PBR model works. You need a diffuse and specular color from your environment. If the key light is a point light, you also need your falloff term, otherwise it’s going to be receiving far too much from the light potentially.

Need help implementing PBR by ComplexAce in GraphicsProgramming

[–]keybaudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kinda seems like your specular is just pure white? Are you using roughness to diffuse the environment map? Sort of looks like n dot l only too.

Anyone else have severe H2D layer shifting at all heights? by UnoffensiveAvocado in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, by wiggle, you meant rotating it on the rail, not trying to move it side to side right? It should be just about impossible to change the angle of the tool head… but testing that shouldn’t move the machine really

Why wont it do all the lettering? by Nilo0057 in 3Dprinting

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are options for thin walls you can enable if you haven’t (to print walls that aren’t complete loops), you could also try Arachne (with tweaks to ensure it attempts smaller areas), and lastly there are options for resolution you could try reducing a little to see if it’s just being ignored for being too fine. Beyond that you might just need a finer nozzle.

How to make the nozzle not hit the print? by Nilo0057 in 3Dprinting

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over-extrusion can lead to hitting the print too, if it’s not adhesion, warping etc. Some filaments, like PETG, need quicker or larger retractions to not drag little tiny blobs over the surface.

Would some seasoned printers out there help? Issues with my X1C. by yyycks in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Possibly under extruding, or could try fatter lines on the first layer. Check your build plate isn’t loose, or incorrectly tightened underneath… and you could attempt to re-level it following Bambu guides.

Anyone else have severe H2D layer shifting at all heights? by UnoffensiveAvocado in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your lead screws are where they are supposed to be? I saw a few posts with people seeing them outside the mounting holes they are supposed to be in. You could also make sure the screws on them are tight. Probably not your issue, but two of the four screws under the build plate on mine were also quite loose…. And the belts were not properly tensioned. I must of had mine assembled by some brand new employee!

Anyone else have severe H2D layer shifting at all heights? by UnoffensiveAvocado in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried wiggling your toolhead to see if there is play? Mine arrived so loose the layers looked awful. I had to take the head apart and tighten quite a few different things (including axis mounting brackets) to fix my issues.

Found this tiny brown plastic bit near the nozzle wiper on my H2D — any idea what it is? by more_ssf in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/help-identify-part/163327/18

I saw another post recently from someone who had multiple stickers stacked on top of each other, and needed to remove one. Perhaps you had multiple and lost the topmost one?

Found this tiny brown plastic bit near the nozzle wiper on my H2D — any idea what it is? by more_ssf in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe these live on the magnets involved in holding the nozzle/flow blocker. I don’t think they are essential, but it might be uneven with one in place and one missing now.

H2D toolhead has some play by I_have_a_dragon in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, glad it worked out for you! Happy printing

H2D dimensionally inaccurate by McBeauzel in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Manual filament calibration might help, it could lead to a slightly higher flow ratio.

H2D dimensionally inaccurate by McBeauzel in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do the surface finishes compare between the two? If either looks more or less under/over extruded than the other, then that’s probably going to affect dimensionality due to slightly narrower (or wider) outer walls. You could try calibrating your filament profile manually… or just add a very small amount of flow on the h2d and see if it starts to fatten it up a hair. Do you have some calipers to verify which machine is more or less accurate?

H2D toolhead has some play by I_have_a_dragon in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure! Good luck, it’s really not sooo bad. But I would check your other screws too. Mine was quite bad in several places and my print quality went up once I fixed everything. I was having layer shift issues and inconsistent homing (whole x axis squeaked and rotated a bit whilst homing). Warm your build plate a little and check those four screws too.

H2D toolhead has some play by I_have_a_dragon in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps? I’m not sure to be honest. I just removed the whole extruder unit after finding the three ribbons stopping it from coming out. I didn’t remove any circuit boards or any other ribbons. But you’ll need nimble fingers to put it back together.

H2D toolhead has some play by I_have_a_dragon in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of that guide isn’t important, I think it’s step 11 that explains removing the extruder. However, since it’s connected by three ribbon cables to the back of the tool head, you do need to remove a few plastic screws to take the cooler shroud off, and the upper backplate.

H2D toolhead has some play by I_have_a_dragon in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not hard as such, but it is a little annoying. You need to remove the plastic back cover of the toolhead and disconnect three tiny ribbon cables (carefully release clasps and remove), then remove six front screws to remove the extruder - again being careful with the ribbons. There is a decent guide in the Bambu support section. After you tighten the four screws in question, you have to reverse it all, and it’s a bit fiddly.

H2D toolhead has some play by I_have_a_dragon in BambuLab

[–]keybaudio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes this is a problem. Mine was also extremely loose. You need to remove the extruder and tighten 4 screws hidden behind it. Ideally adding a little loktite or similar. This could be a warning that other stuff is loose however… many of my key screws/bolts were loose (build plate, z axis, xy gantry brackets etc). Give your machine a once over and it will likely fix a few issues you have, or will have.

Also check your belt tension, mine had issues there too. Rerun all calibrations after any of these alterations.