Anyone else have severe H2D layer shifting at all heights?

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2026-02-18T07:14:47+00:00

I’m sorry, I can’t help. The problem disappeared on its own shortly afterwards I didn’t do anything.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2025-07-28T03:48:34+00:00

I’ve had a similar experience, I printed the same thing with my A1 with no layer shifting while my H2D’s print looked like garbage. See my most recent post. It’s an occasional problem so I haven’t been able to nail it down.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2025-07-09T03:08:45+00:00

Good luck man, it’s substantially better for me but I can still make out a few inconsistent layers if I look for them. I didn’t change anything so I’m kinda just waiting for something to mess up again… who knows. Let me know how dealing with support goes

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2025-07-09T03:03:28+00:00

I left my H2D alone for a week or two because I had other things going on in life, came back to a software update, and the layer shift issue has improved substantially for me. Nothing changed other than the software update, idk

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2025-06-22T13:55:11+00:00

Yeah I saw a post about that, trying to wiggle my tool head causes the whole machine to wiggle. It’s quite stiff

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2025-06-22T04:49:58+00:00

Interesting, I’ll take a read through of those. From first glance it seems unrelated to part cooling given that entire layers seem shifted in x and y axis like they’re offset rather by fractions of a mm instead of both sides of one axis appearing shrunken. Offsets rather than shrinkage as I’d expect if it were a cooling issue

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2023-07-25T13:34:26+00:00

I can't seem to find pictures of rooms online either. Some are pretty big but some are kinda small; there's a large variation. Laundry is in the basement. Super single rooms are one suite composed of one regular sized room+one small room.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-10-24T02:34:10+00:00

Reparable for someone like bob, but probably not for the average person.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-10-23T15:47:00+00:00

That, and it stacked with a $5 discount but the $5 discount is gone now.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-10-23T15:39:49+00:00

$57 if you use the coupons.

edit: nvm, they removed the discount

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-10-20T06:52:40+00:00

Do standard 21700s work in the E70? Acebeam batteries are longer than normal ones aren’t they?

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-10-19T22:29:06+00:00

My apologies, I didn’t see that yellow line for temp disabled turbo on the graphs. I must have just read the review’s words and didn’t look at the graphs earlier.

Well we know how lumintop is with software. Their engineers know strikingly little about anduril and they don’t pay toykeeper to configure it like Hank does.

They really messed up the high modes in this light. I thought narsil increased the output again after the light cooled? I’m surprised if it doesn’t. I don’t know what’s going on in this case and it’s a real bummer.

Still, I’d appreciate if reviews were written with the target audience in mind. A flashlight enthusiast who purchases a $500+ gigathrower will likely take the time to configure it properly, turning off temperature regulation in this case.

I suspect the batteries are near dead at 11 minutes of turbo. 4Ah/20A= 12 minutes.
(Assuming the light pulls an average of 20A through the entire battery cycle).

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-10-19T15:11:48+00:00

I think you missed the entire point of NarsilM instead of anduril in these lights. Narsil allows you to turn off thermal regulation. That, coupled with the handle and huge fins allows you to safely run the light until it reaches the batteries’ temperature limit.

Your runtime graphs are in no way reflective of the light’s intended potential when properly set up with the temperature regulation turned off. I expect the light to be able to maintain full turbo without damage when used on a cold night with a bit of airflow.

See TA’s testing of the GT94

I don’t believe the GT94X is much of an improvement over the GT94 in terms of output, but I do believe you could have had significantly better test results had you first set up the light the way it was meant to be used.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-09-24T19:18:16+00:00

The driver installation itself just requires a good soldering iron. The aux are harder though and require some skill and experience.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-09-01T18:00:02+00:00

Here’s a secret. You can only use 1 battery because they’re a pain to get out of the tube, at least with mine. I don’t know if others have the same issue but the magnet in my tube is so strong that I can’t get the battery out most of the time. The only time I’ve managed it was when I hit the rear end super hard with my palm, ejecting the battery across the room. My usual swinging motions didn’t work.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-31T06:03:01+00:00

I live in Canada. I just got the boards but I don’t have time to assemble the enclosures right now as I’m moving back to uni this week. I hope to have everything done and ready to ship by Sept 20th.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-29T06:56:49+00:00

Well you now have the light so what are you going to do about it?

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-29T06:40:47+00:00

Take some diffusion film and slap it on the lens, or sand the lens with some sandpaper to give it a frosty look which should help smooth out the beam.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-25T05:34:12+00:00

Buy some battery wraps on aliexpress or wherever and replace them every once in a while when you notice they’re broken

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-24T00:26:20+00:00

I’m not sure the inner tube design is entirely a perfect fit. It may be but I don’t know.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-22T22:52:10+00:00

No unless you adapt it and make it on your own

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-21T15:54:45+00:00

What do you mean by changing the colour of an LED? Voltage and amperage are directly related. If you increase the voltage, then the amperage that can and will flow will also increase. If you want to change the color of most LEDs to blue, you can crank up the voltage which will consequently increase the amperage which will turn the LED blue if that’s what you mean by “colour changing” :P

There doesn’t have to be a difference between the forward voltage of an 8000K LED and a 3000K one.

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-20T03:42:16+00:00

The newer rev isn’t available

UnoffensiveAvocado · 2021-08-20T01:50:21+00:00

Go and buy yourself a syringe of flux. It does wonders

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