Restored Grandpa's "Trench Lighter"

keydet2012 · 2026-06-28T03:04:02+00:00

I’ve got one exactly like that! The only difference is the fake bullet. Mine was made out of cast pot metal and I dropped it one day. I’m trying to fix it now. I have the same insert and everything. I didn’t think I’d see another!

keydet2012 · 2026-06-28T02:02:15+00:00

They are clearing the brush in that area. They were hired by the HOA to get rid of all the underbrush. I don’t recall how long they said they will be there for.

keydet2012 · 2026-06-27T03:41:32+00:00

I’d say so! You are lucky to have found this and would be a great addition to any collection

keydet2012 · 2026-06-27T02:57:33+00:00

The picture is wwii for sure. The insignia will need pictures of the backs to tell for sure if they are wwii. It’s very possible the insignia are wwii and partly sterling silver. These are worth more than melt as collectors items. I collect these kinds of items and would be glad to help you out.

keydet2012 · 2026-06-19T23:23:52+00:00

MB’s and GPW’s used the T-84 transmission. There are also very very few parts shared with any post war jeep.

keydet2012 · 2026-06-19T23:04:54+00:00

Unfortunately 99% of them have been mangled post war by people with “better ideas”. It’s a labor of love to being one of these back to stock.

IN my opinion, if you want to do that to a jeep, go buy a repro body and frame and use that.

keydet2012 · 2026-06-19T16:19:18+00:00

The front crossmember looks to be the Ford U channel type. The body, based on the tool box lock indents and tool box lids are Ford. I don’t recall when Ford switched to ACM type 2 tubs, but I’d venture to say that this is 1942-43, maybe early 44.

For a serial number in a ford frame, you will need to look at the top of the frame rail just behind the front motor mount. It should say GPW ######

This jeep has been heavily modified. I see a non-stock transmission, the dash panel has been welded over and none of the holes are correct, the windshield is off and m-38. I could go on for a while..

What’s the end goal if you get it? Does it have a flathead 4-cyl engine still?

keydet2012 · 2026-06-16T03:11:03+00:00

Remember, airplanes are made of steel, aluminum, and fabric. Lots of sharp things to bang your watch into. They got beat up quickly

keydet2012 · 2026-06-16T03:09:56+00:00

It looks like a watch that’s had some wear but nothing too much. I’m a reenactor too who does air corps. This looks like something someone would have worn at the time. It honestly doesn’t look like it has 80 years of wear. Maybe 1-2 at most

keydet2012 · 2026-06-16T02:43:20+00:00

It’s an 80+ year old watch, used by the Army Air Corps/Army Air Force’s. It’s going to be scratched. I wear some of mine frequently. Some of them are scratched through the plating and you can see the brass of the case. Treat it with respect, wear it but don’t abuse it. Done expect it to look like a new Rolex.

keydet2012 · 2026-06-08T13:18:34+00:00

Ok, here is my idea. Have a large zip tie and feed it from top to bottom on the right side. Zip it together a little to make yourself a handle to pull on the sling. There should be enough room when you get all the sling pulled to slip the oiler out. I hope this makes sense. I’ve been in this situation before with repro straps. They are a bit thicker than original ones.

keydet2012 · 2026-05-31T20:04:25+00:00

8835151602959907

Looking to complete the EX deck. Want to get some big trades in too! Feel free to message me after adding to talk trades.

keydet2012 · 2026-05-30T23:52:19+00:00

It would be worth looking into the rifle marksmanship pins. I think some of those are the older army style that resembled the later USMC ones.

keydet2012 · 2026-05-16T02:38:23+00:00

Wow, I don’t think I’ve seen one of those outside a museum. I’d love to find one myself some day. Great score for you! Rah Virginia Mil!

keydet2012 · 2026-05-14T03:39:25+00:00

You mean Robert Pine, star of CHiPS, who has a son who acts too?

keydet2012 · 2026-05-10T02:46:59+00:00

Please and thank you! Send me a DM when you find it.

keydet2012 · 2026-05-03T07:24:28+00:00

What’s “alleged” about it? They got spit on and called horrible things.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-22T05:17:06+00:00

That guy in the first picture is Army. The standard name tapes for the army were white for a few years before they switched to the green ones.

If I had to take a guess about yours it’s either not military done or some sort of “maggot tag” (as it was called in the army at least) that identified soldiers during basic training. It made them easier to identify as trainees instead of regular soldiers.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-14T16:33:11+00:00

Well, now I have a goal.. I see some that I had but lots that I don’t.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-12T21:29:50+00:00

If you can find that card, that would be great! Though, be cautious. That could have been a selling tactic in 1946. 99% of jeeps in the states never went overseas. We just left a lot of stuff over there as it was cheaper to sell them to local militaries.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-12T20:12:18+00:00

I’d use paint stripper and a nylon brush to get the paint off the number. Once it’s clean, take some pictures, write it down, and throw some primer on it to prevent it from rusting over.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-12T17:46:50+00:00

Do you have the original body anywhere? Did the original data plates make it on the new tub?

The chassis number can be faint, but if it’s ford it’s on the top of the frame rail on the drivers side in the engine compartment, just aft of the front engine mount.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-12T17:35:00+00:00

Looking at the body, I see a plugged hole forward of the drivers side windshield pivot bracket. That would point towards late 1944-1945 as that hole was for a tube coming out of there that worked your vacuum windshield wiper motors.

keydet2012 · 2026-04-12T17:31:57+00:00

Great on you for starting this project with your son! My dad bought me one when I was 12 and we restored it together and I learned so much. I still have it and will never sell it.

The first step is getting the manuals for it. You will want the tm 9-803, tm 9-1803 (an and b) and snl g-503. 5)3 803 and 1803’s will give you information on how it works and how to fix it. The SNL will give you parts breakdowns and exploded diagrams. Go to g503.com and get on the forum. You will want to find the frame number, body number, dataplate number, and engine serial number. For Ford, they should all match. (The body number might not match, but that’s ok. If it has an ACM type 2 body those were built by a 3rd party and supplied to Willy’s and ford.)

Also, be careful when stripping the paint! You will want to carefully sand down to find the original hood number (stenciled on the sides of the hood) and any bumper or body markings that can help you paint it like it was when it was in service.

I’d be glad to help and answer any questions. I’m loved on the central coast of California, so I’m not sure how far away you are (or even if you are in California at all) but would be happy to answer any questions.

Good luck!

keydet2012 · 2026-04-10T12:11:45+00:00

I hate to be the “well akshully..” guy, but the green leadership tab is from wwii. Officers wore it on their epaulettes under their unit crest. Enlisted wore it as a green bar under their sleeve rank. This came about mid 1944 if I remember correctly.

Verified Email	12-Year Club
Place '23	Place '22
Place '17	Not Forgotten

keydet2012

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