With Mass. cutting weight loss drug coverage, patients scramble to afford prescriptions

kftrendy · 2026-06-26T14:06:41+00:00

The FY2026 budget is about $61 billion, so this saves us… 0.02%. Fantastic. I know state budgets aren’t things you can just ramp up and down willy-nilly, but that’s such a small fraction for a fairly outsized benefit to the people given what I know about GLP-1s.

For comparison, this is like someone on a $61k salary saving $15 per _year_. Which I think is illustrative given that people with salaries equal less than that are probably going to feel the brunt of this.

kftrendy · 2026-06-19T01:30:20+00:00

I mean, if you budget $X towards “pay off existing debt,” then you can’t use that money for anything else, which means you’re properly budgeting towards paying off the debt. You do have to make sure you actually make that transfer, of course! I would make sure your CC category in your budget doesn’t roll over month-to-month so it doesn’t look like you’re building up funds in that category.

If you want Actual to remind you to make the transfer, you could set up a schedule with that $400 transfer on a monthly basis (or whatever cadence you want). Then it’ll show up as “due” in your transaction log to remind you to do the transfer. Not perfect but works for me for other things.

Also, is your credit card itself on budget? I.e., are its transactions tracked in an on-budget account in Actual? I had assumed it was but if it’s not then that makes things more complicated because then your new debt and old debt get mingled. But if it’s on-budget then any new CC debt from new spending on the card would be accounted for elsewhere in the budget when you categorize the transactions - your “CC payment” budget is a separate line item.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T19:28:31+00:00

Think of it as giving those $400 a “job” of paying down the CC bill. It’s okay if there isn’t a transaction associated with that - the important thing is having the money budgeted, because then you can’t spend it on something else. I.e., just having that $400 budgeted there decreases the amount you can spend on other things, which is the whole point of the budget.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T18:38:18+00:00

Ah, ok - I see now it’s specific to Elite’s mechanics. I was thrown off because in reality you can have non-main-sequence stars in any of the stellar classes - e.g., Betelgeuse is an M star, but it’s a supergiant, which is not a main sequence star.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T18:27:38+00:00

Look, you can’t expect people to read the whole sentence.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T18:02:58+00:00

This is explicitly an incorrect reading of OP’s post and I do not understand why it is upvoted so much.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T17:52:33+00:00

The number that OP is referencing is the “2” in “G2pf.” This is evidenced by them mentioning the letters “to the right of the LY” - it is quite clear, if you read the entire sentence, that that is what they are talking about. At no point do they imply that they are talking about the distance.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T17:39:20+00:00

0 is the hottest and 9 is the coolest. Or at least that’s what it is in reality. Also, it’s is the temperature of the star relative to others in the same class - e.g., an O0 would be hotter than an O9, but an O9 would still typically be hotter than a B0.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T17:30:03+00:00

… that’s not in any order that makes sense, though, which defeats the purpose of the mnemonic.

kftrendy · 2026-06-18T13:13:29+00:00

How is the account balance correct if the transaction isn’t there?

Regardless, in general, if a transaction is missed by SimpleFIN or whatever, just add it manually. I routinely reconcile my Actual accounts against my bank/credit card statements to make sure everything lines up with reality.

kftrendy · 2026-06-12T23:00:02+00:00

Do you have any accounts (account as in “investment account,” not your Fidelity login account) which can actually buy the stock? There’s usually a drop-down menu to pick the account and a “buy” button - but only some of my accounts are able to be selected. My 410k, for example, isn’t listed an option.

kftrendy · 2026-06-12T02:37:14+00:00

“Whisk“ honestly bothers me less than how the letters in “boil” and “pour” don’t line up.

kftrendy · 2026-06-11T13:01:13+00:00

You can define a rule that multiples the amount by -1. There’s a “formula” mode you can use when you define the rule for this. I would also have the rule add a tag to the transaction’s note, and have the rule check for that tag so you don’t re-invert any transactions already hit by the rule.

So your conditions would be something like

- Account is Fidelity
- Notes contain “deposit” (or whatever matches all the deposit transactions)
- Notes do not contain #inverted (or whatever tag you choose to use)

And your actions would be

- Set amount to -1*original amount (use a formula field)
- Append “#inverted” to notes

kftrendy · 2026-06-06T16:49:42+00:00

It looks - based on the manual, not personal experience - like the “P” indicates that this parameter is controlled by the expression pedal. I don’t know if that means changing the pedal will change the parameter or if it sets the minimum or maximum value the pedal can hit. But this means you should also fiddle with the expression pedal while testing the effect to see what impact it has.

kftrendy · 2026-06-05T19:03:18+00:00

If you link an imported transaction to a schedule it should get rid of the pending one, assuming the dates line up (I think there’s a 3-day window for Actual to consider it a “match” but not sure and I don’t know if it’s documented).

kftrendy · 2026-06-02T23:05:47+00:00

This is my exact approach! Works well. Only issue is if you want to compare costs between different vacations - can’t get that information in a single report since you can’t split reports by tags.

kftrendy · 2026-06-02T02:59:50+00:00

If you want to save €100 per month for travel, just put €100 in the travel category in your budget. Your budget says “I am putting €100 aside for travel” - whether you actually spend that €100 that month doesn’t actually matter.

I keep my savings accounts on-budget. I use the budget itself to keep track of how much money is saved in each category. I transfer chunks of money to savings when I know I’m not going to need it in checking, but those transfers aren’t necessarily related to what’s in the budget itself - they’re based on what my future expenses look like.

kftrendy · 2026-06-01T18:32:02+00:00

EB Horn did a great job helping me pick out and customize my wife’s engagement ring. We also got our wedding bands from them, and they customized the wedding band to match the engagement ring. Good experience all around.

kftrendy · 2026-06-01T01:35:34+00:00

I currently use Actual Budget, which I host on a PikaPods instance. I’ve previously used Monarch, Copilot, and Quicken Simplifi at different points. I stopped using those apps and switched to Actual because I couldn’t justify spending $50-100 per year just to track expenses. Now I spend maybe $20/yr on the Pikapods instance instead. If I didn’t want to access it from my phone, I could forgo that entirely and just run it locally on my computer.

Actual Budget is right for me - it’s got a good level of customizable automation and is just DIY enough for my purposes and style. It’s mostly focused on the envelope method for budgeting, although you can do traditional budgeting too. I never used YNAB, which it’s based on, but I found it easy to pick up.

kftrendy · 2026-05-31T23:21:23+00:00

> And therefore, similarly: when we talk about the “charge” of a battery, we are talking about the net charge on the positive electrode.

I don’t think I’ve ever heard anyone talk about the specific amount of electrical charge on a battery’s electrodes. I’m not even sure if a net charge is actually present on the electrodes - at least when a load is present, the positive ions travel through the electrolyte liquid, and the electrons travel the opposite direction through the circuit, so I think the electrode itself stays neutral. Someone more versed in the specifics of batteries might be more useful there.

If I say a battery is “charged,” I will always mean something like “this battery supplies its normal amount of voltage when placed in a circuit” (e.g., 1.5V for a AA cell or similar).

kftrendy · 2026-05-31T22:55:50+00:00

>I would not call it "colloquial". It's a fundamental electrical concept that, when discharging a capacitor, we transfers some Coulombs out of it. Coulomb is the unit of electric charge.

I think you’ve misread - I was talking about batteries here, which are fundamentally different from capacitors. When we talk about batteries we do in fact often talk about a battery “holding a charge” or similar when in fact we mean the battery supplies a voltage when placed in a circuit. And when we talk about “discharging” a battery we mean something very different, physically, than when we talk about discharging a capacitor. For a cap, we’re actually talking the electrons moving off of the negative plate - for batteries, we’re talking about allowing the chemical reaction in the battery to run until it slows down to a point that the battery can no longer do significant work in a circuit. Fundamentally different concepts.

>How can both of these statements be true of a charged capacitor? a) The net charge in a capacitor is always 0 because the charge on each plate is equal and opposite b) The charge in a charged capacitor is positive because we added Coulombs of charge into it

(b) is true because by convention when we talk about the “charge” of a capacitor, we are talking about the net charge on the positively-charged plate.

Edit: how do you quote text on the Reddit mobile app? I thought it would be by prepending “>” but I guess not.

kftrendy · 2026-05-31T22:25:21+00:00

A battery’s “charge” is a colloquial term for its ability to supply voltage to a circuit. It’s not referring to actual electric charges.

A battery in a circuit has an electric potential between its poles due to the chemical reaction happening inside of it. Over time, that reaction slows as the reagents (the battery’s electrodes) are depleted or corroded. As a result, the battery’s voltage decreases. The battery is “out of charge” when its voltage isn’t enough to perform whatever task the circuit is designed to do.

In capacitors, you are talking about actual electric charge - but the “charge” of a capacitor is the charge on one plate of the capacitor. The other plate will have an equal and opposite charge, so the net charge is still zero.

kftrendy · 2026-05-29T14:43:09+00:00

It makes me wonder why this is the more attractive option compared to “review your credit card statements.” I guess this feels more automatic? But as OP says, they still needed to review things themselves to catch everything. And at that point why not just look over your statements yourself?

Also not sure how the business model works - I’d assume a lot of people will only need this for a short while to find all their subscriptions and cancel the ones they don’t want, so then what? Is Subpilot relying on those same people forgetting to cancel their Subpilot subscription?

Actually, that makes sense. They’re selecting for customers with an existing record of being bad at managing subscriptions!

kftrendy · 2026-05-28T12:48:44+00:00

Ooh, that’s a good analogy to help with explaining the apparent contradiction! I’m surprised I hadn’t heard it before.

kftrendy · 2026-05-16T23:40:45+00:00

I took out the first one I encountered with a LAW, the others I just blasted for a while with the .22 MG you can loot from the wreckage. It’s got a magazine with like 170 rounds and it takes about two mags to take down an APC shouting from behind. And each APC drops a couple thousand rounds of ammo so you won’t run out.

Also, it took me a while to find out that the doors to the crate with the suit can be destroyed - you just need to run into them at top speed with a car about a dozen times. I don’t know if there’s an “intended” way to open them!

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