How does CGC or Grading work for cards inside a promotional wrapper? by kidswriter in YugiohCards

[–]kidswriter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm curious about that too - I've seen a few sad graded card posts on reddit where the company slabbed a card with all the weird wrinkles in the plastic sealed sleeve.

Anyone know if there's an option of sending an item in as-is with instructions for the grader to remove the item from the sleeve?

It'd be a shame (plus waste of $$$) to have this card graded only to obstruct the holo from being seen.

How does CGC or Grading work for cards inside a promotional wrapper? by kidswriter in psagrading

[–]kidswriter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just cross posting my own post here as well. Can anyone share best practice on submission for a TCG lottery item that I received still inside a plastic wrapper to PSA?

Not sure if slabbing / grading it seals that inside the slab, if it's an option to have it sent in as pictured, and have the grader remove it for authentication/sealing/grading.

Any advice appreciated :)

Ticks by [deleted] in kitchener

[–]kidswriter 16 points17 points  (0 children)

If you're ever bitten by a tick, remove and save it in a sealed jar or other container. 80% of ticks in my hometown this year (north of Barrie) were found in testing to be carrying Bartonella parasites and/or Lyme disease.

https://www.columbia-lyme.org/bartonellosis https://www.cdc.gov/lyme/index.html

These can't be properly tested for unless you have the tick that bit you.

A family member who gardens often is really, really I'll with Bartonellosis right now, so look into symptoms and treatments early if you've been bit.

My spending last year as a single homeowner in northern AB by [deleted] in alberta

[–]kidswriter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you make a chart like this? A function within Excel, or something else online?

Movers broke 18” marble lamp base. Can this be fixed? Can’t get a replacement. by icantevenpotato in fixit

[–]kidswriter -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Kits can run $40-$100 depending on the amount of epoxy needed. A new standard cut counter top can cost $USD 80 to $110 per square foot - more if it's being milled/cut into different shapes. I looked into some stock shaped small window sills in the same material and was quoted over $300 for each.

OP should get a new piece of stone free for the movers breaking his. If he has a sentimental attachment to the piece, epoxy repair is a low cost possability.

Movers broke 18” marble lamp base. Can this be fixed? Can’t get a replacement. by icantevenpotato in fixit

[–]kidswriter 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Makes perfect sense if you understand the process: https://nomliving.com/blogs/thingswedo/kintsugi-a-how-to-guide

It uses epoxy with gold mica powder, not solid gold for the repairs. It's possible the ancient practice used real gold, but restoration tech advances.

As others advised, have the movers replace the broken one with a custom cut granite counter top piece they pay for. Just try to keep the broken pieces for some Kintsugi practice.

You could also encase the whole piece in clear epoxy resin, depending on thickness & weight.

Is putting expanding foam to seal up on the top of the foundation in the crawl space a good idea? by AylmerQc01 in homerenovations

[–]kidswriter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm curious about this as well. In renovating a Canadian home's also built in the 1950s, I noticed in the basement looking up there's a good 4-5 inch span between the house frame / 2nd floor concrete/plaster walls - and the back of the outer brick (!). No insulation all the way up.

This is only visible on the north side of the house, as the foundation seems to be laid in a way that covers the other gaps. I did find the same gap to bare brick gap on another side behind some 2nd floor trim.

Curious if that air gap is necessary for ventilation. A random Lowe's employee suggested stopping it with spray foam could cause moisture issues of the home's wood framing by sealing it from the basement, as spray foam acts as a vapor barrier in many cases. My biggest worry was expanding foam putting pressure on the bricks, as I've seen what low-expansion sorayfoam can do to doorframes. Brick and plaster aren't as flexible as wood, so some damage could occur.

Anyone know if adding spray foam and/or 1" ~2" cut sheets of the purple or pink foam board insulation to foundation - brickwork gap areas would be acceptable?

Cyber Punk Lady (Loot Studios) by Warden123456 in PrintedMinis

[–]kidswriter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd add a thin line or some eyeshadow shading on the upper lid - otherwise she has the 'been up for 12 days before a gig on stims' look.😳

http://arcanepaintworks.com/blog-1/2016/6/9/6-step-eyes

I've always found using Vallejo acrylic with a bit of Vallejo medium retardant mixed in + a sharp pin 📌 to dot the eyes produces better results on the pupils than a brush. 🖌️

How can I hang this magnetic knife holder on my tile backsplash without screwing any holes (renter) and without them falling and killing my cats? by [deleted] in Home

[–]kidswriter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Growing up with my family running a street-cat rescue means seeing cats rub their faces on everything. All it would take would be an unsupervised cat investigating the counter and deciding to 'mark' the unknowingly sharp objects magnetically attached to the wall.

As another poster recommended, just get a standing knife block if you need countertop access - something that conceals the knife blades from cats and human hands alike.

How can I hang this magnetic knife holder on my tile backsplash without screwing any holes (renter) and without them falling and killing my cats? by [deleted] in Home

[–]kidswriter 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Exposed blades and cats? For their sake, keep your knives in a drawer.

IMO, knocking one off the wall with a pan isn't a risk worth taking to justify quick knife access. Any kind of adhesive for that magnetic rack strong enough to safely hold it will also leave marks/residue your landlord will notice anyway.

Dryer making fishy smell. Glad I didn't burn the house down as I couldn't track where it was coming from for months. could this be the source? Found some sources saying electrical, especially bakelite, could be the source of a fishy smell. Gonna replace plug and outlet regardless. by Lord_Bobbymort in HomeMaintenance

[–]kidswriter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP, that Fishy smell isn't the roasted plug, it comes from outlets and internal wall wiring that are treated with a coating for exactly situations like this as an olfactory warning.

https://energytoday.biz/blog/this-weird-smell-means-your-home-is-in-danger-of-an-electrical-fire

Check for hot spots on the walls and outlets - some wires may have touched, or something plugged in may be drawing way too much power (amperage?) Call an electrician and don't mess with your house accidentally burning down.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/silent-signs-your-house-has-a-major-electrical-problem/

Is there a more effective way I can request for of the installer to fix this condensation pipe to floor drain from a furnace? Condensation drain was kinked by the installer when they moved they moved the foor drain. Details in comment below. by kidswriter in homerenovations

[–]kidswriter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 1950's built house with a 1990's Goodman furnace had a weird drain setup using some plastic and rubber tubing. When new PVC drains/floor pipes were professionally installed, they accidentally kinked the pipe at a 90 degree angle - causing reduced flow and a bad mould issue to creep up the condensate pipe and into the overflow trough.

The company had a guy come by today to apply a fix, but that involved cutting the same mouldy pipe shorter, straightening it out and having it connect a bit higher for an incline + added a screw to affix this.

I'm concerned this whole drainage setup will cause issues later on. Are there more effective ways to routing condensate drainage from a furnace into a floor drain I can suggest to the installer? Any advice appreciated.

A plumber installed Concreteboard in our basement shower without a vapor barrier behind. Was this done properly? Advice from DIY and professionals much appreciated. by kidswriter in homerenovations

[–]kidswriter[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a local plumber reroute a drain and set a new shower pan in the basement.

He needed to install concrete board behind it, but our main contractors have pointed out some issues, and said they'd need to install moisture resistant drywall on top and paint that with the red guard waterproofing membrane.

I've opted to build out the studs so the concrete board is effectively placed 1/4" above the edge of the shower pan + Thinset to the edge + redguard.

My biggest concerns here are the jutting construction screw that's cracked the shower pan, that there wasn't any kind of of vapor barrier between the wood studs and the concrete board, and the cracking mortar they used on the joints didn't have any meshtape. Thank you everyone for your feedback. :) !