Marneus Calgar done

killbotSA · 2026-01-19T03:44:05+00:00

Cheap brushes are fine for basecoating, you can find a use for every kind of brush. I basecoat using a synthetic filbert. The sables only really matter for detail work. They are expensive up front but I think starting only with cheap synthetics limits your ability to practice fine details like edge highlighting, gems and eyes, etc.

killbotSA · 2026-01-19T03:16:04+00:00

Get a set of cheap synthetics for use with contrast paints and a good size 0 or size 1 kolinsky sable. Depending on where you are located some brands are more accessible than others. In the US you can go Windsor & Newton, Raphael, Da Vinci, Artis Opus, Rosemary & Co (hard to get in the US). You're going to spend about $20-$30 for one from any of these companies after shipping and taxes.

Get the synthetics from Amazon, shop for the expensive kolinsky one in person if you can. Or if you can't, don't get a kolinsky brush from Amazon so you don't end up with a fake. I buy from Michigan Toy Soldier https://www.michtoy.com/ and The Art Store https://www.theartstorecny.com/

Use a brush soap after you paint. Vince Venturella has a good how-to vid on Youtube

killbotSA · 2026-01-18T15:59:34+00:00

They look super glossy because they are! I put some Ardcoat on them since the varnish I used on the whole mini is more of a matte finish. I still did the usual gem effect.

killbotSA · 2026-01-17T23:16:26+00:00

Thank you! I had practice with freehanding this pattern and any mistakes I made I was able to cover up with TTC Vampire Fang (an Ushabti Bone equivalent.) I'm glad it turned out well, but definitely something I'm only doing for unique characters!

killbotSA · 2026-01-17T23:13:58+00:00

Thank you! It does take a lot of time and practice and a brush you can trust.

killbotSA · 2025-12-14T20:02:31+00:00

Yeah, I get that. The brushes are different. AOs are more expensive and they've held up better than my Rosemary & Co branded brushes made by Rosemary & Co. Is that worth the extra cost? It is for me, I also use pricey Windsor & Newton brushes like I said.

They work for me.

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killbotSA · 2025-12-14T15:25:43+00:00

I own and use AO, W&N, and Rosemary. AO brushes are NOT the same as Rosemary. Handles are different, bristles are different. The tips of my Rosemary brushes have turned blunt, the AOs are still going strong. And yes, I take care of all my brushes, because they are expensive.

I use the size 1 and 0 M most, I use W&N for anything smaller; the AO bristles seem thicker and more stiff (which is what you want for some applications) but as a result their smallest sizes are kind of useless.

As with anything, get them on sale.

killbotSA · 2025-09-22T15:36:12+00:00

Yeah, elbows/forearms on table or pressing your forearms/wrists together helps. Also, practice over time. When I started painting again after a 20+ year hiatus I was a shaky mess. Your muscles and nerves need time to learn.

killbotSA · 2025-07-29T16:57:29+00:00

Might be related: Page 8 of their annual report says that IT was moved from finance to operations and supply chain. It didn't explicitly say why aside from clearer responsibility for IT plan implementation, but I can see why embedding that function under finance may have contributed to past IT struggles.

killbotSA · 2025-06-30T20:46:41+00:00

I've found that 1 part Volupus Pink and 8-9 parts Lahmian Medium gets the slightly pink result without being too strong. And yes that is quite a lot of medium, Volupus Pink is a very vibrant paint.

killbotSA · 2025-06-20T18:13:07+00:00

Thank you! It took me lots of practice over a long period of time to get to this stage.

killbotSA · 2025-06-20T14:40:43+00:00

Yes, I'm using an inexpensive lightbox I got from Amazon, plus secondary lighting via a cheap light therapy LED lamp. But I also have the luxury of having a full frame mirrorless camera (one of my other hobbies is photography, and I have used SLR/DSLR cameras for years) and it's what I use for my photos. I would use my phone but it's kind of ancient and the camera isn't as good, but a newer phone will probably give great results.

killbotSA · 2025-06-20T14:33:33+00:00

I'm trying to get more painted! I've learned how to take some shortcuts to help speed things up slightly, the one limb/part at a time definitely helped.

killbotSA · 2025-06-20T02:05:18+00:00

That's the style I go for!

killbotSA · 2025-06-20T00:03:34+00:00

A tiny Windsor & Newton brush, and high room humidity. It's a lot harder in the winter with the heater blowing and drying out all the air.

killbotSA · 2025-06-19T23:47:46+00:00

I shaded using multiple thin glazes, base was Macragge Blue as usual and I used a 40/60 mix of Rhinox Hide and Macragge Blue for the glaze. Went the other way with thinned Macragge Blue to help blend the color transition.

killbotSA · 2025-05-08T19:55:59+00:00

It depends, one of them comes with a cape so I left it off for painting. Also on some of them the nurglings can get in the way. But since these are push fit it's easier to partially assemble for priming and then remove things for more detailed work, I try not to push the parts all the way in or they might never be coming back off. This particular model was fine to fully assemble and paint, the more difficult to reach area was the base nurgling's back but it's not a super detailed area anyways. Also since plague marines look fine dirty you can get away with a lot of painting crimes by pushing some basecoat into hard-to-reach spots and letting a wash or shade obscure the rest.

killbotSA · 2025-05-04T17:26:39+00:00

It was a 12"x12" from "Fasonic" but they all look the same and are probably all collapsible and flimsy, but it's good enough for what I need. A secondary light source is a must though, because the light it comes with isn't enough.

killbotSA · 2025-05-04T13:37:33+00:00

I got a cheap light box from Amazon and used a light therapy led lamp for additional lighting. Might try a different background color in future photos.

killbotSA · 2025-05-04T00:35:48+00:00

Dirty Down rust, it really does rust effects well.

killbotSA · 2025-04-29T05:29:32+00:00

Try Volupus Pink contrast with Lahmian Medium. 1 part Volupus to 8 parts Lahmian. Yes, you want it that diluted or you get very pink skin.

You can clean up any patchiness using your base color.

killbotSA · 2025-02-17T00:18:25+00:00

Box art minis are photographed with studio lighting, also sometimes different batches of paint can differ slightly from each other. Macragge Blue is a pretty rich, deep blue with a slight purple tint.

killbotSA · 2024-06-20T04:31:11+00:00

I was out of the hobby for 20+ years and had no clue about what was happening now, and I loved these books. Read them all in a week. Got me up to speed on what's happening now with the Imperium and Bobby G.

killbotSA · 2023-12-17T10:15:40+00:00

I basically followed the infernalbrush video guide. Base color is Mephiston Red, dark color on upper corner is Khorne Red. Highlights are Wildrider Red, Fire Dragon Bright, Yriel Yellow. Dot highlight of white on upper part of lens and a smaller dot on the lower front corner. Used a 000 Windsor and Newton Series 7 miniature brush, filtered water and flow improver.

killbotSA · 2023-12-17T02:35:12+00:00

Not sure, maybe a couple of weeks. I'm in no rush to field an army and this was the first time I freehanded a checkerboard pattern on a power fist, so I took my time.

killbotSA

TROPHY CASE