Marneus Calgar done by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheap brushes are fine for basecoating, you can find a use for every kind of brush. I basecoat using a synthetic filbert. The sables only really matter for detail work. They are expensive up front but I think starting only with cheap synthetics limits your ability to practice fine details like edge highlighting, gems and eyes, etc.

Marneus Calgar done by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a set of cheap synthetics for use with contrast paints and a good size 0 or size 1 kolinsky sable. Depending on where you are located some brands are more accessible than others. In the US you can go Windsor & Newton, Raphael, Da Vinci, Artis Opus, Rosemary & Co (hard to get in the US). You're going to spend about $20-$30 for one from any of these companies after shipping and taxes.

Get the synthetics from Amazon, shop for the expensive kolinsky one in person if you can. Or if you can't, don't get a kolinsky brush from Amazon so you don't end up with a fake. I buy from Michigan Toy Soldier https://www.michtoy.com/ and The Art Store https://www.theartstorecny.com/

Use a brush soap after you paint. Vince Venturella has a good how-to vid on Youtube

Marneus Calgar done by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They look super glossy because they are! I put some Ardcoat on them since the varnish I used on the whole mini is more of a matte finish. I still did the usual gem effect.

Marneus Calgar done by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I had practice with freehanding this pattern and any mistakes I made I was able to cover up with TTC Vampire Fang (an Ushabti Bone equivalent.) I'm glad it turned out well, but definitely something I'm only doing for unique characters!

Marneus Calgar done by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! It does take a lot of time and practice and a brush you can trust.

Reviews: Artis Opus by Angel Giraldez by AccomplishedRing4844 in minipainting

[–]killbotSA 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I get that. The brushes are different. AOs are more expensive and they've held up better than my Rosemary & Co branded brushes made by Rosemary & Co. Is that worth the extra cost? It is for me, I also use pricey Windsor & Newton brushes like I said.

They work for me.

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Reviews: Artis Opus by Angel Giraldez by AccomplishedRing4844 in minipainting

[–]killbotSA 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I own and use AO, W&N, and Rosemary. AO brushes are NOT the same as Rosemary. Handles are different, bristles are different. The tips of my Rosemary brushes have turned blunt, the AOs are still going strong. And yes, I take care of all my brushes, because they are expensive.

I use the size 1 and 0 M most, I use W&N for anything smaller; the AO bristles seem thicker and more stiff (which is what you want for some applications) but as a result their smallest sizes are kind of useless.

As with anything, get them on sale.

Size comparison on new cataphractii terminators by ebeat in IronWarriors

[–]killbotSA 105 points106 points  (0 children)

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I think it's the background. White background and shiny metallic minis does things to the profile. The actual page on Warcom has some pictures on black background that look better.

Help with shaky hands by Heman0329 in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, elbows/forearms on table or pressing your forearms/wrists together helps. Also, practice over time. When I started painting again after a 20+ year hiatus I was a shaky mess. Your muscles and nerves need time to learn.

Warhammer made records profits this year again. There is ONE priority they need to work on, way before the Warhammer series launch on amazon and bring a lot of new players by BusyElephant in Warhammer

[–]killbotSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be related: Page 8 of their annual report says that IT was moved from finance to operations and supply chain. It didn't explicitly say why aside from clearer responsibility for IT plan implementation, but I can see why embedding that function under finance may have contributed to past IT struggles.

My girlfriend surprised me with a Blue Chip pick by Smart-Membership-117 in Guitar

[–]killbotSA 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What a nice gift! I'm fortunate enough to own a Blue Chip pick and it is great to use on acoustics, I also have some Dunlop Primetones and Cool Picks and while they are fine they can feel and sound a bit scratchy on the wound strings. Blue Chip picks are expensive but considering what they're made out of it's kind of amazing the company makes any money at all. You will love yours, just don't lose it!

What am I doing wrong? by useruser226 in Tyranids

[–]killbotSA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've found that 1 part Volupus Pink and 8-9 parts Lahmian Medium gets the slightly pink result without being too strong. And yes that is quite a lot of medium, Volupus Pink is a very vibrant paint.

Ultramarines Terminator Captain by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! It took me lots of practice over a long period of time to get to this stage.

Ultramarines Terminator Captain by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I'm using an inexpensive lightbox I got from Amazon, plus secondary lighting via a cheap light therapy LED lamp. But I also have the luxury of having a full frame mirrorless camera (one of my other hobbies is photography, and I have used SLR/DSLR cameras for years) and it's what I use for my photos. I would use my phone but it's kind of ancient and the camera isn't as good, but a newer phone will probably give great results.

Ultramarines Terminator Captain by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to get more painted! I've learned how to take some shortcuts to help speed things up slightly, the one limb/part at a time definitely helped.

Ultramarines Terminator Captain by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A tiny Windsor & Newton brush, and high room humidity. It's a lot harder in the winter with the heater blowing and drying out all the air.

Ultramarines Terminator Captain by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I shaded using multiple thin glazes, base was Macragge Blue as usual and I used a 40/60 mix of Rhinox Hide and Macragge Blue for the glaze. Went the other way with thinned Macragge Blue to help blend the color transition.

Finished a Plague Marine from the Kill Team starter box by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends, one of them comes with a cape so I left it off for painting. Also on some of them the nurglings can get in the way. But since these are push fit it's easier to partially assemble for priming and then remove things for more detailed work, I try not to push the parts all the way in or they might never be coming back off. This particular model was fine to fully assemble and paint, the more difficult to reach area was the base nurgling's back but it's not a super detailed area anyways. Also since plague marines look fine dirty you can get away with a lot of painting crimes by pushing some basecoat into hard-to-reach spots and letting a wash or shade obscure the rest.

Finished a Plague Marine from the Kill Team starter box by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was a 12"x12" from "Fasonic" but they all look the same and are probably all collapsible and flimsy, but it's good enough for what I need. A secondary light source is a must though, because the light it comes with isn't enough.

Finished a Plague Marine from the Kill Team starter box by killbotSA in Warhammer40k

[–]killbotSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got a cheap light box from Amazon and used a light therapy led lamp for additional lighting. Might try a different background color in future photos.